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Needing one of these at 2 AM and not having it can lead to excessive drinking
Having them will lead you down the same path! Tightening one of these into a screw expands the screw tighter into whatever it's stuck in. Some are sold under the trade name "E-Z-Out". That just further adds insult to injury.
Carried to the extreme, they snap off in the fastener, and are too hard to drill out.
I just found that I have missed your recommendation. Actually GW looks better than Craftsman one (no skipping in sizes, no redundant fillers, better quality) except that 1) it costs more ($199.99 which is still affordable price to me), 2) it does not include 1/2 sets, and 3) inferior case.
How frequently home mechanics would need 1/2 ratchet and sockets? For example, I guess some heavy duty jobs like flex disc replacement would need that, but will I face a situation that I would need to buy a 1/2 ratchet and sockets?
Not much on GLK. 3/8th stuff for flex disk is fine. Actually the GW case is decent. The trays come out fully so you can have all tools out at once.
My buddy has GW set and it gets most of the stuff done.
Agree with the ½ inch ratchet. I have one and hardly ever use it. But if you get into things like changing brake discs, you’ll need a ½ inch breaker bar. For sockets, though, there’s not much value in buying a ½ inch set that overlaps most of the 3/8 inch ones. Just get a ½ inch to 3/8 inch reducer if you have to get rough with one of the larger 3/8 inch sizes and buy the larger ½ inch ones as you need them — big ½ inch sets are expensive.
As far as tool brands, my mostly Craftsman tools have performed quite well over the past 45-50 years. We have a number of vehicles ranging from compact cars and SUVs to 1 ton trucks that I maintain, so they get more than occasional use. I’ve seen the GW tools and they look good on the shelf. If price is an indicator of quality, then they’re a cut above the entry level stuff.
You can twist a 3/8" adapter right off with a 1/2" breaker bar. Just saying... (BTDT)
Agree. Right tool for the job is needed. Brakes, suspension and axle fasteners need 1/2” drive. Oil changes and most engine compartment and interior jobs can get by with 3/8”. Seat track bolts are in the grey zone - these, seat belt and steering column fasteners are the highest torque fasteners inside the car and are near the upper end of 3/8” drive territory.
You can twist a 3/8" adapter right off with a 1/2" breaker bar. Just saying... (BTDT)
You can do that, for sure, but not at 135 Nm (100 ft-lb).
It’s probably overly technical for the purposes of this thread to go into details, but the info is online.
2023 EQE 500 SUV electric and 2024 Jaguar F-PACE SVR 5.0L
While i was cleaning out my bag...
Bone tool isn't just for removing plastic body/trim pieces. I'd also highly recommend using it for removing o-rings from materials like a plastic oil filter housing or even an aluminum block. If you're wondering why you always have a leak it's probably that deep gouge from the stainless steel high-nickel-content screwdriver you used to remove the oring last time and the time before and time before that.
Right angle screwdriver for those screws right up against the firewall (or somewhere tight like that) that would require dissembling half the front dash to get to otherwise.
Locking extension from Harbor Freight because I frequently retrieve other mechanic's sockets from the black hole that exists inside every vehicle.
And last but not least and I dont think they even make it anymore, a ratcheting weird angle hex wrench. Pure genius I tellz ya