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Can't hear the tappy tappy with the hood down but I don't know, sounds a little louder to me than normal and coming from the back. I start to wonder about high pressure fuel pump. Could that make this sound?
Seems ridiculous all of these parts going bad around the same time.
It might be the recording, but it does sound a bit clackety around the back. Again, I'm no expert and I don't have much experience with the gasser, but I believe it is direct-injected so what you're hearing may be perfectly normal. You're probably a lot more in tune with it, after all the work you've done, so perhaps your ear is a bit sensitive to any potentially new sound.
Have you cleared the codes and driven it around for a bit on the open road? I'd be curious what code(s) come back. If the CEL stays off, it's possible any pending code(s) will eventually go away on their own, after enough successful start/run/stop cycles.
Did you ever run a fuel system cleaner? If not, I would do that and run the entire tank to 1/4 full then do it again. How does the engine run overall? Is it quiet inside the car? How's the power?
It might be the recording, but it does sound a bit clackety around the back. Again, I'm no expert and I don't have much experience with the gasser, but I believe it is direct-injected so what you're hearing may be perfectly normal. You're probably a lot more in tune with it, after all the work you've done, so perhaps your ear is a bit sensitive to any potentially new sound.
Have you cleared the codes and driven it around for a bit on the open road? I'd be curious what code(s) come back. If the CEL stays off, it's possible any pending code(s) will eventually go away on their own, after enough successful start/run/stop cycles.
Did you ever run a fuel system cleaner? If not, I would do that and run the entire tank to 1/4 full then do it again. How does the engine run overall? Is it quiet inside the car? How's the power?
Bluedriver doesn't let me clear that code.
I think, I might have figured this out..
So I just pulled the manifold again to check my work. After the fuel pump change I started to notice the smell of a little gasoline. Couldn't catch a whiff around the back end where it's notorious for cracked fuel pump and fuel filter covers that will leak a few drops and stink up the inside (ask me how I know) and couldn't smell it with a car turned off. But with it running I could catch a little smell under the hood driver side (Bank 1 hint hint) and I noticed a dime size drop off wet, what looked like oil, riiiiight under the fuel rail nut, but it was awful runny, like gas. I got a half turn out of it.
So my working theory is that the new fuel pump with all of its power was more than my wimpy tightening skills could handle the first time around doing the VVTS. 3,000 miles and not a drIp. New pump said hold my beer.
I forgot the blue driver has deeper scans. If I "scan all system modules" I can get a P2540 code I can't clear.
The battery voltage below threshold code I can clear, but I've seen/cleared it before.
All these codes in the background you'd need a scan tool to even know about with, and with no performance issues. If my battery needs to be replaced shouldn't it be telling me for reals? Lol
If the minor leak I found doesn't clear P0087 I'm wondering if a 5 year old H7AGM with an AAA sticker on it is sending electrical gremlin..
Don't worry about the Mbrace codes; that's likely due to the 3G signal going out (it's never coming back either).
The fuel pump pressure sensor code is weird, since you just replaced the sensor. I assume you plugged everything in correctly and there aren't any loose wires.
Lastly, it's not a good idea to run the fuel tank low. That's a good way to clean out the gunk that settles on the bottom of the tank over time and push it through your entire fuel system, potentially clogging up stuff along the way. I would suggest you fill up whenever you get to a 1/4 of a tank. In winter time, it's recommended you fill up whenever you get below 1/2 tank because you never know how the weather might shift, which could cause all sorts of havoc on the road. But I digress...
If you're worried about the battery, perhaps get it load tested at AutoZone or some other parts store; most will do it for free.
Upon further inspection of dampness the tiny bit of fuel on the intake manifold is coming out from the center fuel injector, not the fuel rail nut. This tiny leak, like the P0087 code, never happened prior to the installation of the new LPFP with it's higher pressure.
I'm tempted to throw the old one back in and see if I can pass inspection.
When I get down to a quarter tank again I'm going to get back in there and see if I can find where this internal leakage is occurring. That TSB is the heart of this issue.
I've had it pull the jerking once and long start once too since the new low pressure fuel pump was put in.
Maybe should have replaced the entire fuel module not just the pump. When fixing things makes it worse..
The oil was coming from #5 injector seal, and it probably had been leaking there for a little while giving I used the same seals 5000 miles ago when I had the valve cover off last. Dumb. Oil was all over the injector when I pulled it. Only one, but I replaced all three injector seals driver side.
The fuel, best I can guess, was coming from number five fuel injector blue o-ring in the fuel rail. replaced all three of them as well..
The oil and gas found each other like old dinosaur friends from a bazillion years ago, atop my manifold under a fuel rail nut making ish rather confusing to diagnose coupled with the installation of new parts and all the aforementioned codes.
I thought the thing was a rocket ship with the old fuel pump dipping a 30 psi. I've got the new one in, no gas smell anymore, and ya it's quite the performance improvement.
Soon as the O2 sensors check themselves fully I'm taking it for smog check 😎
My P008A came back even after a new fuel filter, LPFP, and fuel pressure switch.
I took her to the shop and now I want to know what anyone thinks of this level 2 diag they initially said they were going to charge me $633 for, when they thought it was an electrical hunt, but now only want to charge me $450 for since it wasn't that much. Level one diagnostic stopped at pic 1, level 2 at pic 2.
I dropped it off last Thursday after the guy on the phone told me they weren't busy and could get it right in. They got around to looking it Monday, and all they did was scan it, saw fuel pressure was 63psi in spec, cleared the code, drove it through its checks and got no codes, thought it fixed and gave some BS line about finding a bunch of old stuff in the computer they cleared out. They called me to come get it Monday afternoon, and in 15 min called me back and said the light came back on while staging it for me to pickup. How is that worth level one diag of $233?
For level two they actually got around to popped the hood and they caught fuel pressure drop to 54 psi on a gauge, intermittently, and have a picture of it doing so. I sure hope that image isn't a fake in anyway. So their solution as you can see at the very bottom is to throw 4 new parts at it, 3 of which I already replaced with OEM. And lets be real, a clogged fuel filter isn't going to present itself as intermittent low fuel pressure. And how do you not test a $2000 fuel control module to KNOW for sure its bad??? I've seen threads on here asking the voltage at the pins for it, but I pass the baton when its electrical though. They did nothing imo.
I complained. They said they'll discuss it with shop foreman tomorrow. and get back to me, but i have no belief they know or care how to fix this. They never even addressed the gas light coming on at 15%, and they have ALL my notes, pic 3.
What the hell would cause this to drop fuel pressure INTERMITTENTLY like this?
It stinks that you're struggling with this still, as I thought we had it figured out already. I don't think you should be needing any new parts in the fuel system, except I am wondering about the fuel control module (which I don't think you swapped out) and the scorched wiring comment. That might be the source of your problems, as any fluctuation in voltage will affect how the electronic fuel system components behave.
I would go through the entire fuel system from tank to fuel injectors checking for any loose wiring, cables, bolts that hold down grounds, etc. Maybe the electricity issue is what caused problems to begin with, by damaging certain components that you've now replaced, but if there is still a wiring issue it's possible those new parts could get damaged from fluctuating power.
It stinks that you're struggling with this still, as I thought we had it figured out already. I don't think you should be needing any new parts in the fuel system, except I am wondering about the fuel control module (which I don't think you swapped out) and the scorched wiring comment. That might be the source of your problems, as any fluctuation in voltage will affect how the electronic fuel system components behave.
I would go through the entire fuel system from tank to fuel injectors checking for any loose wiring, cables, bolts that hold down grounds, etc. Maybe the electricity issue is what caused problems to begin with, by damaging certain components that you've now replaced, but if there is still a wiring issue it's possible those new parts could get damaged from fluctuating power.
I can't even find part numbers for the wiring harness that connect from the fuel pump to the underside of the round white cover. Which is another reason I just took it in to have the electrical looked at, but they haven't done anything but look at their Xfinity scanner and a fuel pressure gauge under the hood to witness an intermittent drop.
If somebody could help me find the part numbers for the wiring specifically that connects to the fuel pump and then the bottom side of that white cover and then the plug-in harness on the top of that white cover and even the module under the back seat, I would really appreciate it. So to clarify I have not replaced any modules. And the shop I took it to didn't spend any time testing them before they said replace them. How the hell is that common? 2013 GLK350 base. Vin is WDCGG5HB3DG123358
EDIT: I cant find the module part number either and would try that as well.
With the gas that got up there (and i am a tank filler, maybe last owner wasn't) it could have screwed both these parts. I directed the shop to them, they didn't pull out a multi meter for either, or even go in the tank. It takes 10 min ffs..
Not sure what other wiring harnesses or plugs there are, and I'm definitely not an expert on the gasser but it does seem like a relatively common issue (as you also found on BenzWorld).
I'm sure it can be resolved, just patience and being meticulous. That shop is unlikely to be any better than a dedicated owner with good DIY skills, which you certainly seem to be.
Not sure what other wiring harnesses or plugs there are, and I'm definitely not an expert on the gasser but it does seem like a relatively common issue (as you also found on BenzWorld).
I'm sure it can be resolved, just patience and being meticulous. That shop is unlikely to be any better than a dedicated owner with good DIY skills, which you certainly seem to be.
Shop said they would look at it again, as a "courtesy" to me.. said they were going to test the module this time 🙄 that's admitting they didn't do **** the first time saying throw four parts at it, not a courtesy. I mentioned the scorched wiring and they said one thing at a time 😭 with all the tools and scan equipment they have they are much better than a DIYer, and paid to be
They said the module, part number 0009006207, is putting out 1 volt, while getting 12v.
They want to charge me $1350 to fix it. Mind you we were at $622 for diag level 2, which they said they didn't do all of once seeing low fuel pressure, so only $450 when they wanted to throw 4 parts at it.
They said the module cost $800 and requires programming once installed. It's $135 online, and there is no way I'm going to believe it needs programming, unless someone here can confirm it.
Plan is to just show up in an hour and leave with my car. I don't trust calling them to say ill do it myself before I'm there.
How the hell is it putting out 54 psi with 1v?
EDIT:
The fact they zoomed in on the 1v video and you cant even see what its connected to, while they crank it and get no start, worries the **** out of me.
FWIW, low voltage won't damage the fuel pumps - it'll give them a vacation. If the module was putting out 24 volts, then what they are prep'ing you for might make sense (but 24 volts is never gonna happen, of course).
FWIW, low voltage won't damage the fuel pumps - it'll give them a vacation. If the module was putting out 24 volts, then what they are prep'ing you for might make sense (but 24 volts is never gonna happen, of course).
Yeah, that's good of you to notice they said that in the notes. Doesn't make much sense does it?.. now guess why they said that?
Because they burned out the module during testing.
I called them up an hour before closing and told them I was going to be on my way to pick it up and I would put the module in myself, and they said "are you going to have it towed".
Mind you I drove in a week ago without a single performance issue, except the occasional jolt under WOT, and gaslight illuminating at 15% left in the tank along with the intermittent P008A.
They made no mention of it not starting when I talked to them just an hour earlier, after getting the report that the module was putting out 1 volt. That conversation consisted of the $900 they were going to charge me to put it in and program it, amd me asking for the part number, and saying I'd get back to them. I had a sneaky suspicion. In my report there's a video of the 1 volt reading and I can hear the car cranking and not starting in the background.
So of course I went absolutely ape sh*t on the phone. Told them it drove fine, and they either fried the module or the pump, or both. After some spicy back and forth they agreed to replace the module free. Obviously I didn't drive it there it only putting out 1 volt.
So here's a million dollar question. What the hell did they do to fry it during testing, using only a multimeter???
I don't guess we'll ever know if the P008A was being caused by my module.
I know damn well they haven't removed the LPFP cover yet or they surely would've taken a photo of all their hard work 🙄 so my point is they haven't even looked at the scorched plug. I didn't know if that's anything, but I know they've ignored a lot of information, and management has admitted they have dropped the ball several times.
There's a complete disconnect of understanding of who the customer is they're dealing with between the front desk that tries to sell you the parts they just broke at 4x cost, and management who understands I've got too much mechanical understanding to accept the diagnosis, their initial one, throwing four parts at the problem, three of which that are already new... but at this rate it's what they're going to end up doing anyway LOL 🤣
So now we're waiting until next Wednesdayish when they'll have the module done. I emailed them my concerns about the wiring, again, and provided them a link that I posted above, the guy who had the same problem and it was the wiring.
I feel like the people at the front desk work off commission, and possibly so do the mechanics, who are definitely fueled by incompetence.
Edit: but yeah back to your initial low voltage point, could they have given it more than 12 volt and screwed up a lot of stuff beyond the module and pump? I only saw a multimeter in the photos..
My guess is that some ham-handed junior tech just managed to short out the pump supply line when testing. I can't imagine a scenario where more than 12 volts was applied to anything from that point forward though - so the pump and associated stuff on the electrical end should be fine (assuming they were before the tech got into it, of course).
This is all just another (frightening, disconcerting...) reason I twist my own wrenches. What I don't know in terms of experience I more than make up for in motivation to do it right, and fix it correctly.
My guess is that some ham-handed junior tech just managed to short out the pump supply line when testing. I can't imagine a scenario where more than 12 volts was applied to anything from that point forward though - so the pump and associated stuff on the electrical end should be fine (assuming they were before the tech got into it, of course).
This is all just another (frightening, disconcerting...) reason I twist my own wrenches. What I don't know in terms of experience I more than make up for in motivation to do it right, and fix it correctly.
I've turned all my own wrenches on this vehicle to this point, but if that module needed replacing and programming I'm unable simply because they have primary software.
so my point is they haven't even looked at the scorched plug.
I don't recall the whole story, but, scorched plugs often come from loose connections which develop resistance and then create heat. This alone might account for your problem. (At least your original problem...)
I don't recall the whole story, but, scorched plugs often come from loose connections which develop resistance and then create heat. This alone might account for your problem. (At least your original problem...)
Completely agree, it's why after hashing over everything yesterday with the shop that they're going to fix for free, I emailed them again mentioning that it only takes 5 minutes to pull the low pressure fuel pump cover and inspect the plugs top and bottom.
I mean they tried to sell me a part they broke for four times the cost, and wrote it down as if the discovery of 12 volts in and 1 volt out was the problem to begin with that I came in with.
When I was shocked it was undrivable the front desk person said to me well it's got an intermittent fuel pressure drop, like that's why I came in, but no the car not starting is not an intermittent problem, that's a permanent problem.
I've never had to yell like that IRL with anyone. I have never threatened anyone with a lawsuit and made them aware I have every phone conversation recorded, all of their lies.
I'd have to go down there with AAA and have it towed to another shop and have them pick up where everything was left off at this point.
I can only imagine how much they don't even want to look at my vehicle anymore. It's one screw and two plugs to put in a new module, and YouTube shows it's 5 minutes of programming. I'm assuming they can handle this... 🙄 What should at least get us back to square one.
They burned out the fuel pump and the module. Can anyone explain how they can accomplish that? They said they got the new module put it in and the pumps dead.
They're paying to have it towed to Mercedes dealership and have a new fuel pump put in as long as the one I got from eEuroparts is genuine, and for 300 bucks it better would have been. I mean it says genuine on their site.
02-26-2024, 11:39 AM
