Coolant low warning
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2013 GLK350
Coolant low warning
I had a low coolant warning a few months ago. First time since I owned the 2013 GLK350 from 2015. Figured it was just natural evaporation. Added some more. Had another light this past week. Add some more coolant. I checked around the radiator and don't see any leaks. None of the hoses seem to be leaking either.
Not sure what to do. Monitoring it again. Made sure the cap is tight.
Really slow leak somewhere that I can't see? Head gasket? But I don't see a lot of white smoke? Nothing on the Garage floor or that I can see inside the engine compartment.
Any ideas on what to check?
Not sure what to do. Monitoring it again. Made sure the cap is tight.
Really slow leak somewhere that I can't see? Head gasket? But I don't see a lot of white smoke? Nothing on the Garage floor or that I can see inside the engine compartment.
Any ideas on what to check?
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
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2013 glk 350
Does the coolant look milky. ,does the motor oil look milky ? I just replaced leaking hoses on my 13, did you remove the bottom tray and look? If you can’t find it get an Ultra Violet dye test kit . If oil or coolant look milky fix it don’t drive it.
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2013 GLK350
I'll try removing the bottom tray. I have a bad back, so may be hard for me to get down there. I was just looking from the top/front. Didn't seem any crust or leaks. Also, no stains on the garage floor.
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2013 GLK350
So had a local service place do a pressure test. They said it was a pinhole or smaller leak in the head gasket. They put in some coolant leak liquid in there for now. We'll see if it helps. The leak is very small. Quarter cup every month or two.
If it ends up getting worse, they said I could have someone torque the bolts a little tighter. Or head gasket replacement. Both sound expensive. Anyone have any experience with these (non dealer). Is it even worthwhile to do either on a 2013 GLK 350 with 166k miles?
Should I look at getting a new car now? Wanted to do a road trip later in the year, so wondering if this will hold up. Also, maybe getting rid of it if there is a better than average chance of it getting worse.
If it ends up getting worse, they said I could have someone torque the bolts a little tighter. Or head gasket replacement. Both sound expensive. Anyone have any experience with these (non dealer). Is it even worthwhile to do either on a 2013 GLK 350 with 166k miles?
Should I look at getting a new car now? Wanted to do a road trip later in the year, so wondering if this will hold up. Also, maybe getting rid of it if there is a better than average chance of it getting worse.
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GLK 350 / Porsche 993
Coolant can leak and evaporate in many places.
Have water pump and thermostat been replaced?
Like said above, a simple gas tester can determine if it's headgasket. It tests for for combustion gases in you coolant system. Pretty easy test.
If it's indeed head gasket, torquing head bolts is not gonna solve anything and replacing headgasket will be prohibitively expensive to do it right.
Have water pump and thermostat been replaced?
Like said above, a simple gas tester can determine if it's headgasket. It tests for for combustion gases in you coolant system. Pretty easy test.
If it's indeed head gasket, torquing head bolts is not gonna solve anything and replacing headgasket will be prohibitively expensive to do it right.
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2021 GLB250 FWD, 2023 GLA250 FWD, 2013 C250, 2015 GLK350, 2005 ML350SE, 2003 E320
In all honesty, I would probably ignore a leak that size, but I understand your concern about taking a long trip in a vehicle with 166k miles starting to show some issues.
All pin hole leaks behave the way yours is doing. A head gasket is probably the least likely place. My C250 had a pin hole leak that behaved just like this - ten okay trips, then 2 or 3 where I needed about 6 ounces of coolant. This went on for half a year until I was under the hood with the engine running one day and saw a tiny spray from a pin hole in the water distribution tube.
Your leak could be similar. It will probably get a bit worse until it makes the cause obvious. In 50+ years of working on engines, I have never seen re-tightening a head bolt fix anything. The most likely outcome is that will cause problems that weren’t there before. Some of those could be catastrophic.
All pin hole leaks behave the way yours is doing. A head gasket is probably the least likely place. My C250 had a pin hole leak that behaved just like this - ten okay trips, then 2 or 3 where I needed about 6 ounces of coolant. This went on for half a year until I was under the hood with the engine running one day and saw a tiny spray from a pin hole in the water distribution tube.
Your leak could be similar. It will probably get a bit worse until it makes the cause obvious. In 50+ years of working on engines, I have never seen re-tightening a head bolt fix anything. The most likely outcome is that will cause problems that weren’t there before. Some of those could be catastrophic.
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2013 GLK350
Ok. So I brought the car to a place I trust down in the city, who has worked on my car for years. They found a leak in the radiator.
So now the question is, do I fix it?
They say that these are the most immediate:
They have radiator, with hot water valve and firewall elbox at $1600.
There is also play in my ball joints and they want to replace the lower control arm for $1000.
Things they said could wait:
the front differential is seaping oil. That would be another $1600. They say I could wait on this.
Also, one of my camshaft adjusters is making noise. Others could start making noise or eventually need to be replaced. If I did this it would $6600.
I think if I did everything I'd be better off getting rid of the car. The question is, do I fix some of it now. Radiator and maybe control arm?
Car has 167000 miles. I like it, but don't want to sink more into it then it's worth. I can afford to buy another car. Do I just leave it and look for a new car? Trade in or something?
So now the question is, do I fix it?
They say that these are the most immediate:
They have radiator, with hot water valve and firewall elbox at $1600.
There is also play in my ball joints and they want to replace the lower control arm for $1000.
Things they said could wait:
the front differential is seaping oil. That would be another $1600. They say I could wait on this.
Also, one of my camshaft adjusters is making noise. Others could start making noise or eventually need to be replaced. If I did this it would $6600.
I think if I did everything I'd be better off getting rid of the car. The question is, do I fix some of it now. Radiator and maybe control arm?
Car has 167000 miles. I like it, but don't want to sink more into it then it's worth. I can afford to buy another car. Do I just leave it and look for a new car? Trade in or something?
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
So, the one shop said a leaking head gasket, now a trusted shop says it's the radiator. (?)
That's really a personal decision. Some folks would fix all of it (and first argue the quoted cost) ... and some folks would do the minimal to sell it, then move on.
We have a 2001 Wrangler with 133k miles on it with minimal "major" replacement (I've done a radiator replacement $300 and torque converter sensor myself ($50) - keeping it). GLK, now 91k, nothing major (yet).
Prior to our 350, my wife had an e320 with over 300k miles with zero major issues (though I did swap out the radiator just before 300k, and did motor and tranny mounts about 275k).
It's all about what it's worth to you (and family?).
That's really a personal decision. Some folks would fix all of it (and first argue the quoted cost) ... and some folks would do the minimal to sell it, then move on.
We have a 2001 Wrangler with 133k miles on it with minimal "major" replacement (I've done a radiator replacement $300 and torque converter sensor myself ($50) - keeping it). GLK, now 91k, nothing major (yet).
Prior to our 350, my wife had an e320 with over 300k miles with zero major issues (though I did swap out the radiator just before 300k, and did motor and tranny mounts about 275k).
It's all about what it's worth to you (and family?).
Last edited by calder-cay; Apr 17, 2024 at 08:36 PM.
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2013 glk 350
Did you see the leak ?. Once I fixed a leak with jb weld on a plastic piece and it did not fail ever on the plastic
my last leak on my Glk was a bad hose ,
hoses leak , water pump gaskets leak . And fcp euro has the best products with forever . Autochrome sells crap rebuilt a joke
As a joke
my last leak on my Glk was a bad hose ,
hoses leak , water pump gaskets leak . And fcp euro has the best products with forever . Autochrome sells crap rebuilt a joke
As a joke
Last edited by Mmr1; Apr 17, 2024 at 07:46 PM.
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2021 GLB250 FWD, 2023 GLA250 FWD, 2013 C250, 2015 GLK350, 2005 ML350SE, 2003 E320
All that work together is worth more than the GLK if you were to trade it. Just my opinion, but if you trade it for another used car, you don't really know why the owner got rid of it. You know what you have.
The Beverly Hillbilly solution with a small radiator leak and needing to take trip, would be to just throw in a tube of alumaseal, keep a couple of gallon jugs of water in the back, and hope for the best. I would do that traveling by myself, but not with family.😎
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GLK 350 / Porsche 993
On a 10+ year old car many things will need replacing, fixing and maintaining. You have 3 options:
1) DIY repair and extra maintenance.
2) Buy a new car that doesn't need this but will depreciate
3) Find a mechanic who can do things right and give you right options/advice ....aka a unicorn..
It's that simple. IMO opinion, if you can't do some work on the car, you should not own 10+ year old car.
Have you replaced waterpump, pulley, front shaft, transfer case bearings, fluids in diffs...etc etc.
Btw...radiator and lower control arms are 600 on FCP. So if you can do yourself you save 2k and keep your car.
1) DIY repair and extra maintenance.
2) Buy a new car that doesn't need this but will depreciate
3) Find a mechanic who can do things right and give you right options/advice ....aka a unicorn..
It's that simple. IMO opinion, if you can't do some work on the car, you should not own 10+ year old car.
Have you replaced waterpump, pulley, front shaft, transfer case bearings, fluids in diffs...etc etc.
Btw...radiator and lower control arms are 600 on FCP. So if you can do yourself you save 2k and keep your car.
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2013 GLK350
I have metal rods in my back and can't get down to fix things like I used to. Also, live ina townhome without adequate garage space to do work. Appreciate the suggestions though.
Here is a video they attached showing the control arm. Doesn't look that bad to me, but I'm no mechanic.
Here is a video they attached showing the control arm. Doesn't look that bad to me, but I'm no mechanic.
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2011 GLK 550
There is play in that control arm so any mechanic would recommend replacing it.
Those prices you are quoted are ridiculous, but that's kinda the name of the game when you own an older Mercedes and can't work on it yourself. I'd recommend moving on, you don't seem to be in love with the car.
Those prices you are quoted are ridiculous, but that's kinda the name of the game when you own an older Mercedes and can't work on it yourself. I'd recommend moving on, you don't seem to be in love with the car.
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2013 GLK350
Went to the repair shop. They showed me the leak. The also showed me the CAM adjuster specs. They are still within max tolerance but are making a little noise on startup. So going to just monitor that.
For now just getting the radiator and control arm fixed. Pricy but I guess that's what I get for not being able to do it myself.
Looks like parts are similar to what I could find online. $600 for two control arms. $392 for radiator and $119 for feed line.
Labor is 5.5 hours including drain and fill. @$175 for radiator
Control arm about 2 hours @ same rate.
For now just getting the radiator and control arm fixed. Pricy but I guess that's what I get for not being able to do it myself.
Looks like parts are similar to what I could find online. $600 for two control arms. $392 for radiator and $119 for feed line.
Labor is 5.5 hours including drain and fill. @$175 for radiator
Control arm about 2 hours @ same rate.
