2012 GLK350 Battery Question
Last edited by mcbridebr; Mar 26, 2024 at 05:49 PM.
I will have an Interstate AGM, 4 years on it holds 99-100% charge . Whatever you get charge it with a charger first .




And guess what? FCP Euro does NOT pay to return the battery - you can imagine what it costs to ship a big ol' battery 👍
My recommendation? Buy from a reputable nationwide auto parts chain - that way, if the battery conks out, you're not gonna be stranded WAITING on a new battery shipped to wherever you are.
The Aux battery on our 2015 350 was throwing the "Aux malfunction" message on the dash, so I drove (GLK) to a nationwide auto parts store (there's 5 different stores within 5 minutes of each other) and bought a new Aux battery. I changed it out in the parking lot in about 5 minutes (I wanted to give them my old battery while I was already there).
Similar event with our Jeep. Main battery went bad, so I yanked it out, drove up (in GLK) to auto parts, and walked back out with a new battery (the bad battery was under warranty at the auto parts - a no cost exchange). 30 minutes later, Jeep back on the road.
Odyssey reviews:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aut...4r-850#reviews (yea, it's for my year model GLK)
Driving data shows 14-14.8 volts and current +2.9 to +7 or +8. Charging system seems fine. Sitting off in the driveway voltage drops to 12.0 to 12.2. Current sits at -11.2 after settling down a bit. From what I have seen I THINK that is normal.
I feel like it still might be a bad battery. Advance Auto guy said his machine said the batter was at like 600 CCA but its rated for more than they and it said it needed a charge.




Tested today with my multimeter and its sitting between 12.2 and 12.1 volts, guessing its shorting, idk. But I think its time to replace it since I have had to jump it off twice in the past week.
Mercedes OEM AGM aside, anyone on here have any luck or experience using other branded AGM batteries?
You really need to have the battery load tested. Yea, a multimeter can give a clue, but a load test is better. If you don't have one, most all auto parts stores will load test for no cost.
Personally, I put a trickle charger on all our vehicles (even the zero turn
) every two weeks, simply as a maintenance item.Unfortunately, we've yet to replace the GLK's battery, so can't speak from experience and provide a recommendation - but our day will come. I suspect I'll probably buy an original spec MB battery (10 and 12 year is a nice long life for a battery). However, I will do research, such as yourself, for other [less expensive and readily available] options.
You really need to have the battery load tested. Yea, a multimeter can give a clue, but a load test is better. If you don't have one, most all auto parts stores will load test for no cost.
Personally, I put a trickle charger on all our vehicles (even zero turn 😀
every two weeks, simply as a maintenance item.Unfortunately, we've yet to replace the GLK's battery, so can't speak from experience and provide a recommendation - but our day will come. I suspect I'll probably buy an original spec MB battery (10 and 12 year is a nice long life for a battery). However, I will do research, such as yourself, for other [less expensive and readily available] options.





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It’s like 12 years , junk it. Stop trying to squeeze it.
You could try an amp draw test when car is off. I was loosing charge and found my dashcam was locked on draining my battery .
but at that battery age just get a new battery before you get stuck somewhere
It’s like 12 years , junk it. Stop trying to squeeze it.
You could try an amp draw test when car is off. I was loosing charge and found my dashcam was locked on draining my battery .
but at that battery age just get a new battery before you get stuck somewhere
Last edited by Mmr1; Mar 27, 2024 at 05:05 AM.




Johnson Controls
Exide Technologies
These 3 companies make most of the car batteries in North America. Most battery brands are just labels of these three. Whichever battery you buy, it's possible to find the actual manufacturer with a little research.
Choose a label, buy a battery, happy motoring.





Exide Technologies’ former EMEA and Asia-Pacific business now operates as a standalone company under new owners. On October 27, 2020, the battery manufacturer announced the ‘closing of the deal’, successfully concluding its separation from the Exide Technologies Holdings in the US and the transfer of its entire business to a group of long-term shareholders, under the US-based Energy Technologies Holdings LLC.
Last edited by calder-cay; Mar 27, 2024 at 07:13 AM.
Johnson Controls
Exide Technologies
These 3 companies make most of the car batteries in North America. Most battery brands are just labels of these three. Whichever battery you buy, it's possible to find the actual manufacturer with a little research.
Choose a label, buy a battery, happy motoring.




Most car batteries are made by Exide, Delphi, or Johnson Controls. Each manufacturer provides a variety of battery brands.
Delphi manufactures battery brands like ACDelco and EverStart, while Exide makes Champion, Exide, and Napa. Johnson Controls manufactures brands such as Duralast, Diehard, Kirkland, Motorcraft, and Interstate
https://www.zorestowing.com/blog/top...on-the-market/
I got my new one from NAPA, for about $200 and comes with a 3-year warranty.
Can't beat local pick-up and easy exchange if needed.




If you want to do a test, put your volt meter on the battery and have someone try to start the car.




- Guess what? All that information is superfluous if the car won’t start. Just hook up a voltmeter like @John CC says and if the voltage drops to 10.8 volts while cranking, clean all the connections, + and - battery, ground lug, and every terminal all the way to the starter and test again. If it still drops to 10.8 V, replace the battery.
- My $$$$$ battery tester now sits on the bottom shelf of my work bench collecting dust with my timing lights.










