My wifes GLK350 got a CEL with P0306 which pointed to the original spark plugs and coils. So I figured I would take care of a few other things which were due, while I was in there.

1- Bosch plugs and coils.
2- Mobil 1 Euro 0w40 and Mann filter.
3. Serpentine belt, idler pulley and tensioner. All by gates which is an OEM supplier.
4. New upper intake manifold gaskets (Felpro) since I removed the intake.
5. Coolant flush. Replenished with Zerex G48.
6. Cabin Filter Mahle/Caremetix LAO413
7. Mann engine air filter.

Since I like to know how much money I saved with my DIY, I got a quote from the dealership where we bought the car. $3167! About half of which was labor (7 hours). I sourced all OEM level parts for about $550, so I saved a pretty nice chunk of change.

Also, the engine compartment had not been cleaned in several years, so I cleaned it VERY thoroughly with Sonax engine cleaner and a ton of elbow grease. Including the deep cleaning, I spent about nine hours over two days to complete this work.

Don't look too close, it is pretty gross in here.

Much better!

 

Good job! Do you know when the brake fluid was last flushed? The reservoir is looking kind of dark.

 

Thanks. Funny you mention the brake fluid, because that is next on my list. It was last changed five years/45k miles ago, I tested it with a BF200 tester and it is right at 3%, so that will get flushed in the coming weeks. I am gonna do all three of my vehicles at once (2016 E350, 2013 GLK350 and 1998 Landcruiser) with Bosch ESI6. Probably take me 3 hours.

 

Brakes control everything, ABS , 4wd traction , Antilock. Even MB says change every 40,000 , fixing it when it breaks will break your bank. That’s one thing MB has the proper timeframe for. Trans fluid should be done at 40/50000, that oil lubricates the transfer case and they are known to fail. And it’s difficult to check level. Oil at 9000 is bs . 3/5000 is needed keep it right . The motor it to complicated and expensive to fix .
Differentials are not even listed as a change oil item , stupid , they do fail , 8-90000 is good. Don’t forget hoses . Use MB hoses or known quality . Doing a motor oil analysis is also a good idea to see how it is wearing and what contaminants it has .

 

How bad was swapping the spark plugs and coils?

 

Yes, do tell. As I understand, the passenger side aren’t too bad but the drivers side are much more difficult.

 

The spark plug swap on my 2010 was pretty easy. I did not swap out the coils.

 

In fairness I have many years of experience working on cars, so not everyone may have an easy a time with this. I also just did the plugs and coils on my 2016 E350 back in January, so that made this even easier. Additionally, I have rebuilt engines and even much more complicated things like the 6-speed ZF automatic (6HP21) in my tuned (510WHP 550WTQ) BMW N54 E90 335i. Having said all that, if you are handy with a wrench at all, it will be pretty easy. Just time consuming, as there are a lot of little connectors etc to fiddle with. The driver side does take twice as long as the passenger side, mainly due to the ECU and associated bracketry being perfectly in the way. The keys here are as always, research the repair and get everything you need on hand before you begin, make sure you have the right tools and above all else (really talking to myself here), if you hit a roadblock or become frustrated, don't force anything, take a break, regroup and come back with a clear head and plan. The main tools that made this job go smoothly were the spark plug socket with built in swivel (so much better than the one without the swivel!) and the plug/coil pliers that I used to get the very stubborn coils off the plugs, as they were dry, hard and would not budge. With I was able to reach way down in there and pull them by the base. Speaking of the stubborn coils, take the time to apply some https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/permatex/oil--chemicals---fluids/grease---lube/dielectric-grease/47cb50ae2109/permatex-dielectric-grease/per0/22058/v/a/136936/automotive-car-2016-mercedes-benz-e350?q=dielectric+grease to the tip and just inside the boot of the coil. This will make the next service dramatically easier as well as easier to slip over the plug this time around.

I believe this is the M272, not the M276 correct? The M272 has a good amount more room in which to access the plugs and coils.

 

Yes. According to Google, the 2010 is the M272 not the M276 which (per Google) started in 2013.

 

I know this isn’t a GLK, but is this pretty much the procedure?

 

Yes. Spark plug procedure is the same for all M276 applications.