Dashcam install question



I bought a Thinkware F800 Pro and I'm having a hard time with the hard wiring in my GLS. The cam works ok using the cigarette lighter plug but that won't give me the option to use the cam in parking mode. I ordered the hardwiring kit with the dashcam and it needs ground, 12v permanent and 12v ignition power. The fuse box next to the glove box doesn't have 12v ignition power, so I'm trying to use the fuse box under the back seat. The hard wiring kit is too short to reach to that fuse box so I used 25 feet of bell wire (that was the best I could find for this purpose at Ace) and using a simple light tester I figured out that no power was getting to the end of that cable. I thought ok, should have gotten the right cable, so I bought a 25 feet 14 gauge all copper wire and same thing... no power at the end of that cable. I thought that maybe I didn't make a good connection with the fuse tap and for testing purpose I cut the cable next to that connection but at that point the light tester lights up. Is a 25 foot extension too long for a 12v circuit? I don't have an amp meter to see if that cable is broken but I would be surprised if 2 cables in a row were damaged. I don't know how many trips I've made to autozone, homedepot and ace, how much time I spent googleing which fuse tap I need, which wire to use and so on... my neighbors must think that I'm an idiot because everytime they go in the garage they see me fiddling with my car :-(
Just get a cheap voltmeter and mesure the voltage at the end of your 25ft cable when hardwired. If you dont have any, then something is wrong with the way you hardwired it, or the cable is broken. The cable can easily be checked on his own with the voltmeter though, just put it in Ohmmeter mode.



Just get a cheap voltmeter and mesure the voltage at the end of your 25ft cable when hardwired. If you dont have any, then something is wrong with the way you hardwired it, or the cable is broken. The cable can easily be checked on his own with the voltmeter though, just put it in Ohmmeter mode.



Sorry to hear youre having so much difficulty with the hardwire install.....The complexity has actually put me off installing one in the GL.
Can I ask why you ended up choosing the thinkware? I never came across it before reading your post; but I always had heard great things about the blackvue 7/650 line with their app and video quality and power magic pro.
If you're returning your thinkware, maybe that may be something to look into?
I hardwired a dash cam into the vw with this kit which works perfectly for my use as its out of sight.
I had trouble finding the fuse diagrams as you did.....it seems German carmakers don't like sharing them.
Also, I looked at the Roav Pro from Anker, it has all the features you might like at a good price point and it has a stable app.
Hope it helps!
and yes, I've been in bethesda (i mean dc) for a little while now. Its probably changed a lot from when you lived here!



Sorry to hear youre having so much difficulty with the hardwire install.....The complexity has actually put me off installing one in the GL.
Can I ask why you ended up choosing the thinkware? I never came across it before reading your post; but I always had heard great things about the blackvue 7/650 line with their app and video quality and power magic pro.
If you're returning your thinkware, maybe that may be something to look into?
I hardwired a dash cam into the vw with this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...dash+cam&psc=1 which works perfectly for my use as its out of sight.
I had trouble finding the fuse diagrams as you did.....it seems German carmakers don't like sharing them.
Also, I looked at the Roav Pro from Anker, it has all the features you might like at a good price point and it has a stable app. https://www.amazon.com/Roav-Resoluti...words=roav+pro
Hope it helps!
and yes, I've been in bethesda (i mean dc) for a little while now. Its probably changed a lot from when you lived here!
I've installed an after market backup camera in my ML all by myself and it worked fine, so I didn't expect such a hassle with the dashcam in the GLS.
It's been 7 seven years since I left Bethesda. You reminded me of this photo, that's how I got my Camry (and other stuff) from Bethesda to Chicago
For the faults, it's the way the OBDII system works. If for example a power consumer is pulling more power than a predetermined threshold, then it can throw a fault code. But generally, it will be a pending code that will go away by itself if the fault doesnt reoccur in I dont know how many occasions (either starts, minutes, activations, etc, depending on the hardware). It's probably what happened with your car. At some point it must have detected a short circuit or an open circuit, threw the code as pending, then removed it when the fault did not reproduce.
BTW, another way of hardwiring the dashcam is via the OBDII plug. It provides 12V ACC as well in most occasions (I would need to check for Mercedes to be sure, but that how I hard wired the dashcams in all our Toyota Hiluxes at work). You can simply push the wires inside the holes, but for a cleaner install you can either buy some small pins or purchase the plastic OBDII connector with the proper pins inside.
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