How reliable and trouble free is the ML320 and ML350
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2002 C240
How reliable and trouble free is the ML320 and ML350
I am getting ready to buy my wife a used ML (preferably an ML350). I have a C240 I love and the ML's are priced right.
Everytime I mention it to my friends they tell me how many problems these trucks have and how they are always in the shop. I hear the motors are good but everything else suffers from poor engineering since Chrysler took over. Since all of you guys have these trucks can you guys give me some sound advice?
Thanks,
Erich
Everytime I mention it to my friends they tell me how many problems these trucks have and how they are always in the shop. I hear the motors are good but everything else suffers from poor engineering since Chrysler took over. Since all of you guys have these trucks can you guys give me some sound advice?
Thanks,
Erich
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02 ML320, 06 E350
Originally Posted by erich
I am getting ready to buy my wife a used ML (preferably an ML350). I have a C240 I love and the ML's are priced right.
Everytime I mention it to my friends they tell me how many problems these trucks have and how they are always in the shop. I hear the motors are good but everything else suffers from poor engineering since Chrysler took over. Since all of you guys have these trucks can you guys give me some sound advice?
Thanks,
Erich
Everytime I mention it to my friends they tell me how many problems these trucks have and how they are always in the shop. I hear the motors are good but everything else suffers from poor engineering since Chrysler took over. Since all of you guys have these trucks can you guys give me some sound advice?
Thanks,
Erich
As for reliability the newer the better since you state you want an ML350 they only made them after 02 so thats a good start. Before 02 some people say more problems existed but i think my 00 ML has had less trouble than the 02 ML but i will say interior quality is much better on the 02 ML's+. the earlier MLs below 02 are way different then the 02 over 1,000 things where changed and improved upon. One thing i will point out as a problem for all mercedes in general is the technology they have on them is very very new. It usally takes 3-4 years for lexus to copy mercedes technology and in that time they learn from mercedes mistakes. I personally think that Mercedes are more reliable based on my life experiences i have 2 friends with new honda accords that always have something broke on them, way back in the day my parents used to have a lexus LS (traded it for an S class) and that car broke down all the time and would eat batteries. BMW i have to say quality is slipping i didnt expect all the weather stripping to fall out when driving the M3 down the road along with a faulty air pressure sensor and SMG stalling.
#3
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2010 ML550, 2010 E350 4M, 1966 Corvette Convt C2
Purchase an 02 or later for the most features and the better interior quality and comfort. In 02 there was a320 and I believe that the 350 came out in late 02 or 03. I had a 98 ML320 and then an 02 ML500 (now an 06 ML500). I had some minor issues with both ML's (98 and 02) however they were taken care of early on by my dealer and never reoccurred. Most all were related to electronics. My suggestion is to purchase the latest, lowest mile, best equipped ML you can find and purchase from a dealer. Be certain its Starmarked with the used vehicle warranty. The few dollars more that you will spend will be worth it. Have it maintained by a dealer, not an independent. Dealers know the vehicle and have all the latest info from the factory. Again the hourly rate will be higher but the bottom line a bit less. Be sure to get the service history and check that there are not any repititious items that constantly repeat themselves. Its my opinion that most of the complaining you see here is from people that do not dealer service their cars, have installed aftermarket mods or have service done by a poor dealer. Good luck and enjoy the ML.
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Father has one. He has had very few problems and yes they are petty quality-related problems. Washer fluid reservoir cracked, illumination for odometer went out, fuel level indicator went out, exhaust manifold hanger cracked. Nothing that has ever left him stranded though. The drivetrain is built like a tank, the topside though is not.
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#8
Sorry, I don't agree with the "always take it to the dealer" rationale, at least not if you want to keep repair costs under some level of control. Periodic inspection costs at dealers are extremely expensive, and their appproach to almost any minor problem is to remove and replace with new/expensive parts rather than spend any time on diagnosing the problem or researching cost-effective solutions.
That's best case. Worst case, they're just totally incompetent.
Just one example: Most dealers recommend all-four-coner, replace-rotor brake jobs at intervals typically less than 20K miles when the pads are 50% to 75% worn. All-up cost? $1300. Does anyone really think it is reasonable to pay nearly a dime per mile for brakes? That's about half the cost of fuel! Dealers think this is the normal cost of maintenance and anyone who doesn't pay up willingly is some kind of cheapskate. This cost can be cut by 75% or more if you shop around a little for parts and only replace what needs to be replaced.
My recommendation: When the free-service/warranty period ends, go ahead and ante up for the extended warranties and service plans; they're expensive but at least the cost is predictable. Or better yet, find a good independent mechanic that will work with you to find cost-effective solutions to the all-too-frequent repairs required.
Great vehicles, but not for the faint of heart with respect to repair bills.
- Mark
That's best case. Worst case, they're just totally incompetent.
Just one example: Most dealers recommend all-four-coner, replace-rotor brake jobs at intervals typically less than 20K miles when the pads are 50% to 75% worn. All-up cost? $1300. Does anyone really think it is reasonable to pay nearly a dime per mile for brakes? That's about half the cost of fuel! Dealers think this is the normal cost of maintenance and anyone who doesn't pay up willingly is some kind of cheapskate. This cost can be cut by 75% or more if you shop around a little for parts and only replace what needs to be replaced.
My recommendation: When the free-service/warranty period ends, go ahead and ante up for the extended warranties and service plans; they're expensive but at least the cost is predictable. Or better yet, find a good independent mechanic that will work with you to find cost-effective solutions to the all-too-frequent repairs required.
Great vehicles, but not for the faint of heart with respect to repair bills.
- Mark
#9
Hi
All ML are good.
If you are just a normal man & not looking for stupid things,you be ok.
Many problems are made by bad service & money hunters.
I know peoples who have problems with everything own.
All ML are good.
If you are just a normal man & not looking for stupid things,you be ok.
Many problems are made by bad service & money hunters.
I know peoples who have problems with everything own.
#10
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02 ML320, 06 E350
Originally Posted by Nokia
Hi
All ML are good.
If you are just a normal man & not looking for stupid things,you be ok.
Many problems are made by bad service & money hunters.
I know peoples who have problems with everything own.
All ML are good.
If you are just a normal man & not looking for stupid things,you be ok.
Many problems are made by bad service & money hunters.
I know peoples who have problems with everything own.