M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

2001 ML320 Door locks jump up and down

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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 11:49 AM
  #1  
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Angry 2001 ML320 Door locks jump up and down

Hi
Is there a fix for a 2001 ML320, when you take off the door locks go up and down several times?

The car also wont lock it’s the driver door that appears to be out of sync.....opposite of the other doors
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 04:17 PM
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From: Tulsa
CLK, ML320, 400E, 400SE
You'll need to have the door lock assembly replace on the door that doesn't lock. I just finished replacing the door lock assembly in my 2000 ML 320 yesterday. Replacing the door lock assembly was an experience to say the least. Lots of tricks and tips for this job.

If you want to temporarly disable the "auto" locking feature that locks the door when you reach a speed of 10mph, while the key is on press down on the lock button in the center console to lock the doors for at least 10 seconds and this will disable the auto lock feature. After you replace the door lock assembly, just press the lock button again to unlock the car for another 10 seconds and the auto feature will return.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 04:35 PM
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99 E320
consider having someone examine the door switch/plunger in the door jamb. it
may be jitterbugging and sending signal that the door is open...then, above
10mph, the signal is sent to lock the door, it does, then the loose tolerance
sends back a signal indicating the door is open....yada yada....
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 04:57 PM
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From: Tulsa
CLK, ML320, 400E, 400SE
I wish I had taken a picture of the door lock assembly. The assembly is only 1 part consisting of the two cables, micro switch, door lock catch, exterior door handle bracket catch and a few springs. It is not serviceable (meaning you can not purchase seperate pieces of the assembly). The door lock bud that you manually push down at the top of the door is merely the end of one flexible cables going to the door lock assembly. The other flexable cable goes to the interior door catch. The “machine gun door” locking problem is usually only repaired by replacing the entire assembly. I have read were one owner sprayed electrical contact cleaner into the area and had success. I’m unsure how the contact cleaner worked since the electronics are at the base of the part and I cannot figure out how you could get contact cleaner in the area without taking the door apart.

Good luck...
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 11:58 PM
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how do i know if its the sensor?

When you reparied yours did one door lock oppsite of the rest? and was that the bad door?

Thanks
Robert
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 09:20 AM
  #6  
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From: Tulsa
CLK, ML320, 400E, 400SE
Yes, the door that is unable to remain locked will indicate the failed door lock assembly. All doors will make the "jumping or machine gun sound" but the one that remain unlocked is bad. Another method to confirm the bad door is to manually lock the door by pushing down on the locking knob and if it will not lock.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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I think its the

I think its the driver side door its oppsite from the rest

what part am i looking for!

Rob
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 08:13 AM
  #8  
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From: Tulsa
CLK, ML320, 400E, 400SE
Each door lock assembly will have a unique part number for the specific door. Your front, driver's door will have a different part number than the passenger door. The dealer price for the door lock assembly is approx $150ish.

If you a DIYer and have a few tools, it's not an extremely difficult job - just takes and persistence. It really helps to have a set of the car molding pulling tools.
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