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The window on the drivers side has stopped working. The dealer told me that the whole console near the gear which includes all the windows, mirrors etc has to be replaced.
I am handy with a screw driver etc. Is it something that I can replace easily.
Are there any instructions available as to how the replacement is done.
Switches are available for $130 from auto warehouse, but the dealer is cahrging 800$ for parts and labor
I went to search and found a few things it could be such as, regulator, motor, malfunction due to battery disconnect. I had a new battery installed in Dec. 06, did you? If so, one suggestion was to hold the down switch down for a few seconds. Then try to bring the window up. My last resort will be to take it to the dealer because my ML is a 2001. I am going to try a few body shops that specialize in electric windows. Good luck. Jim
2014 RX 350 F Sport, 2007 Scion tC, 2000 ML 430 Money Pit Finally Gone! Oh Happy Day!
Originally Posted by worried1
The window on the drivers side has stopped working. The dealer told me that the whole console near the gear which includes all the windows, mirrors etc has to be replaced.
I am handy with a screw driver etc. Is it something that I can replace easily.
Are there any instructions available as to how the replacement is done.
Switches are available for $130 from auto warehouse, but the dealer is cahrging 800$ for parts and labor
I just fixed mine couple months ago...
There is nothin wrong with u re window or motor...
is simple the rocking part made my cooper that in long run will slip away from the switch...so u could open up and adjust it the rock and the switch toggle
Is not that hard accept for the Gear knob to....u twist the bottom part n pull it out the knob...good luck..
Thanks for your help. I opted to buy a new switch for $110 from auto parts warehouse and it arrived in two days after placing the order. The two screws holding the cubby were tight, and the rest of the gear knob, and console plate were just snaped in pieces. The entire disassembly and reassembly took me less than a hour. When ever possible I stay away from the "Dealers". The one in Salem Oregon increased their labor and part prices 25%. THANKS THANKShttps://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif
Has anyone can share me some web side showing step by step in replacing the spark plugs and disc brake for ML430 2000.
Also I m using BOSCH at the moment and I heard some other using NGK...
Is it better for long run or should I keep it with BOSCH...
As far for disc brake I m gonna stick with original Brembo power slot....
Thank you for the information and suggestion....
2014 RX 350 F Sport, 2007 Scion tC, 2000 ML 430 Money Pit Finally Gone! Oh Happy Day!
Originally Posted by Pottie
Has anyone can share me some web side showing step by step in replacing the spark plugs and disc brake for ML430 2000.
Also I m using BOSCH at the moment and I heard some other using NGK...
Is it better for long run or should I keep it with BOSCH...
As far for disc brake I m gonna stick with original Brembo power slot....
Thank you for the information and suggestion....
00 MB ML55, 91 Toyota Supra Turbo(sold), 06 E500(gone), 03 BMW M3
Originally Posted by Pottie
Has anyone can share me some web side showing step by step in replacing the spark plugs and disc brake for ML430 2000.
Also I m using BOSCH at the moment and I heard some other using NGK...
Is it better for long run or should I keep it with BOSCH...
As far for disc brake I m gonna stick with original Brembo power slot....
Thank you for the information and suggestion....
Pottie, for future reference, there are many threads with the 2 subjects you talk about. If you dont want to start your own thread, search the forum for relevant threads and post in there. This avoids taking threads too far off topic
As for the switch problem, this is a common issue in 98-01, like most other issues... it was corrected for the 2002 update
and repaired my passenger front window for my 1999 ML320.
Upon reassembling, everything worked - except the defrost (to the right of the central lock). With the defrost keycap ("plastic cover") off off the rocker travels and the switch works fine - the LED goes on and off.
However, with the keycap on, there's absolutely NO travel on the rocker.
Upon close examination, this keycap/cover sits flush against the base when properly seated (clicked into position). Even w/o the rocker installed, it's sits completely flush. I can't figure out how it ever created any forward or backward pressure on the rocker.
The switch and rocker look physically quite symmetric with the central lock, which has modest travel of about 1/8" perhaps - enough to trigger the locking mechanism.
Can someone with another ML320 of this vintage tell me if this is how their defrost switch looks/works? Is the 'travel' on the defrost rocker the same or nil compared to the central lock?
I've tried all four combinations of the rocker from the central lock and the defroster (reversing it, etc) on the possibly I mixed them up when reinstalling - it is possible. The single tension pin (there is only one, right?) is in place as well.
Now that I'm comfortable opening and closing this panel, springing for a new whole keypad for $125 or so seems ok - but I'd like to solve this mystery.
I ordered my ML320 Window Switch from Parts Geek. Selected ground shipping and it came in 1 day. I called and asked a few questions about installation. They were very helpful and answered all my questions.
I called Auto Parts Warehouse and the person i spoke to had very bad english. I couldnt understand them and had to hang up. (they must outsource their call center, frankly i dont think he understood me, he just kept asking me "can i take your order")
Anyway it took me about 45 minutes for the whole job. no to bad. Saved me alot of cash
and repaired my passenger front window for my 1999 ML320.
Upon reassembling, everything worked - except the defrost (to the right of the central lock). With the defrost keycap ("plastic cover") off off the rocker travels and the switch works fine - the LED goes on and off.
However, with the keycap on, there's absolutely NO travel on the rocker.
Upon close examination, this keycap/cover sits flush against the base when properly seated (clicked into position). Even w/o the rocker installed, it's sits completely flush. I can't figure out how it ever created any forward or backward pressure on the rocker.
The switch and rocker look physically quite symmetric with the central lock, which has modest travel of about 1/8" perhaps - enough to trigger the locking mechanism.
Can someone with another ML320 of this vintage tell me if this is how their defrost switch looks/works? Is the 'travel' on the defrost rocker the same or nil compared to the central lock?
I've tried all four combinations of the rocker from the central lock and the defroster (reversing it, etc) on the possibly I mixed them up when reinstalling - it is possible. The single tension pin (there is only one, right?) is in place as well.
Now that I'm comfortable opening and closing this panel, springing for a new whole keypad for $125 or so seems ok - but I'd like to solve this mystery.
thanks - MLHB
MLHB
Had the same problem and found that I had not completely compressed the square switch enclosure plate with the 8 snaps (2 on each side). The 2 snaps closest to the defroster switch and all window lock were not completly latched. Because those 2 switches are surrounded by raised plastic of the entire switch covering, unlike all the other switches the area around the switches was to high to allow the cover to move or rock.
When I took a pliers and gently squeezed the back and front plate together by the snaps near these 2 switches, I heard 2 clicks finally completly closing the 2 halfs. The extra 1/16 of an inch compression now allowed proper rocking motion for both switches as normal.
I used the same instructions that you did and and although very well done and detailed this precaution should be encluded as I am sure others have had this problem.
I also noticed that there was a reference that the front white wire connector had no retaining latch which in fact it did at least on mine. Also explaining that the switch covers have little circular ears by the pivot that need to be gently lifted over the pivot swival pin might be helpful rather than simply prying off if you don't look closely.
The article was otherwise very detailed obviously with a lot of work and passion, it just seemed odd that the above info was left out or so generalized, when everything else was done so well...
Don't get me wrong I am not complaining as articles like this are certainly lifes savers not to mention money savers. Without the time, effort and information especially pictures these selfless contributers provide, we all would be at the mercey of the opportunistic dealerships.
Just wanted to add a few things to make a great article a little better and share my experiences.
The window on the drivers side has stopped working. The dealer told me that the whole console near the gear which includes all the windows, mirrors etc has to be replaced.
I am handy with a screw driver etc. Is it something that I can replace easily.
Are there any instructions available as to how the replacement is done.
Switches are available for $130 from auto warehouse, but the dealer is cahrging 800$ for parts and labor
It has happened to me twice. First time, I paid a repair place to do it but I bought the part. Cost me about $130. Not bad. 2nd time, I came on here and found an excellent link explaining how to do it yourself. Actually, what I found out is that there are white plastic braces that house the rocker/switch and they brake for some reason. I replaced the 2 that broke for the front windows with the ones for the back windows. Pretty easy. Of course now I can't control the back windows but for now, I'm good. There is the other rear control for them though. Not sure if you can buy those plastic parts separately but if you could, it would save a bunch of money.
I appreciate this forum. I have done several smaller jobs on my ML430 (brakes, spark plugs, oil changes, water circulation pump, etc.).
Yesterday, my wife couldn't get the drivers side window to go up. Inquiries and troubleshooting lead me to believe the window switch assembly went bad. With this forum and a link to Rodney's page on the topic, I fixed the switch assembly today and likely saved $400 (the dealer gets $192 for the part alone).
Thank you for the forum and thank you very much Rodney!
RPPutney- Just wanted to say THANKS for the article explaining how to repair the drivers side window! Awesome. Step by Step, with no step skipped! Took a little over an hour, but got tired of the duck tape on my drivers window! Works like a dream. Got some "goof off" to remove the sticky duck tape residue. Good to go! Thanks so much.
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Jun 10, 2015, 02:51 PM
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