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The vehicle at the front now sits probably at the correct height, as when I bought it is sat a lot lower. I will not be lowering it, and will keep it factory set height.
Will add measurement tomorrow in day light. about 7-8 hours ahead over here in the UK from the US, so in darkness just now.at 23.27 hours
Front shock swap-over was easy, but had to cut the top mounts off with angle grinder as nothing to grip anymore as so rusted. Shocks from Bilstein, identical in height and fittings from old shocks I removed,
You may get off with using just two spring compressors, but I have workers to look out for, so safer to use 4 for piece of mind, as too many people injured around the world with doing these and not realising the amount of torque the are holding, before they let go on the threaded bolt, or worse.
Original front shock, also now new disc, refurbished and painted caliper, chassis leg also rust cured, painted and undersealed now I had to use 4 spring compressors on the rear springs, as I do not have access to any hydraulic spring compressors, so did it old school. This now is the front ride height, which is probably actually only now back up to factory pre-set height, as old shocks were not doing anything, to torsion bars were taking all the weight and strain.
but obviously not sagging and causing vehicle to be lower than was meant for off road drivng. (country lanes of dirt and forest tracks, not mud plugging)
In case anyone reading this asks, why can I still be allowed to drive, remember governments cannot be too strict on people, as the country and economy would collapse if you start banning people for anything that is not too dangerous to others. I still have one good hand, right hand to drive with, hence I have had to change all vehicles to automatics unfortunately, but I do not mind too much now in life. If geared cars, which I still have one, i use my carers to change gear, so again no problem really. Even my van is tiptronic automatic 6 speed with manual over-ride if you want, but no clutch.
I have to sit a driving test evey year, where you lot in here only pass one in your lifetime, and I have to also pass a seperate brain test at same time.
I have a limit on me about how long allowed to drive, so always take a carer with me to take over if needed.
I also have tracking devices and monitoring devices attached for insurance purposes, and one even attached to my body, working 24/7 in case I fall and an emergency device if I do fall and cannot get back up as maybe knocked myself out again, which is triggered with my own body weight, in turn sends a signal to a phone system that alerts the emergency services.
And I live alone high up in the mountains with no neighbours, apart from farmers scattered around.
Only got 1/4 lungs left, so get out of breath if I talk too long to others, so life is different this end, yet i still have fun and enjoy life..
Nice update on your strut/shock replacement thread, silver.
Just a few comments on yours - B8s - it's good you you stuck with B6s. B8s would be just too rough and harsh a ride.
If you desire a stiffer suspension, just go with polyU bushing replacements, or replace the worn rubber ones with the oem.
Glad to hear you still have fun driving these SUVs.
If you wish better swaybar support, for the front, you can swap over to the ML500 oem (02+ models) as they use the same size dia as the ML55s. Rear sway bar for the ML55 and Ml500s are the same too.
On our ML500, I ended up swapping the rear oem struts to coilovers (to lower it) - now lower than a typical Ml55 and adjusting the front torsion bars to lower it accordingly and still using the oem front shocks.
Front shocks will be changed out to KYB monomax HD (as recommended by a good BW member)
Present ride is firm and when compared to an oem ML55, more forgiving, imo. I've driven the 55s of my colleagues here, and they concur the CO setup I've followed and applied for the rear works well vs. oem ML55 rear struts.
No bounciness many previous members complained about when lowering their SUVs - Not sure how or what specifically they did, however. it is what it is.
When done, post some photos of your completed work.
Nice update on your strut/shock replacement thread, silver.
If you wish better swaybar support, for the front, you can swap over to the ML500 oem (02+ models) as they use the same size dia as the ML55s. Rear sway bar for the ML55 and Ml500s are the same too.
Yikes, this is not my thread, so sorry original thread starter, but at least we are all adding to help you make a decision, if you have not done so yet.
Khomer2, I have homer Simpson as my sat nav voice which is brilliant.
I already have the 2002+ model with the same anti-roll bar fittings and bushings etc as the 55 model.
I got a shock at the price of the bare anti-roll bar, (Sway bar) but it is what it is.
Stopped using poly bushes years ago as fed up having them squeaking their heads off and having to strip and grease them far too often.
I live in a very wet climate in the UK, and they do not like the wet and I do not like people looking at a vehicle because it squeaks its head off on braking, turning, even moving away from lights etc.
Racing is great for poly bushes, but not needed for these kinds of vehicles. Although yes, they are stiffer, so tighten up the steering also, making it more positive, better road manners and also better and more responsive braking, the list of positives is high, but I cannot justify the darn things when they decide to start squeeking there heads off, and nothing is actually wrong with them. If they made stiffer rubber ones, then no problem, but poly bushes are not rubber as such.
Already had to remove every single poly bush I bought for my Jag, so not going down this road again. 12 in total, so I know the pain of them on road vehicles.
Some people get lucky, but as a rule, like you say, i will stick to factory OEM, as not building this to race, just to have a bit of fun, and as you know, 5.0L will get rid of all these pesky ****/boy racers trying it on with their front wheel drive go fast stripes.
Will now document and photograph entire swap outs as i thought it would not interest people being so old a vehicle.
Wanted a ML55 model, but scarce in the UK and excellent ones seem to be cosseted, so stupid money second hand. Looked at three, but had to walk away before I even got to drive any of them as abused to death is all that comes up for sale in the UK.
People selling in the UK lie through their teeth about everything. Just greed through ignorance.
This is why I settled for the ML500.
I thought, get a second hand good one, 5 I had to look at before I managed to get a decent looked after one,, mint body and interior with good service MB history, then spend the same again on suspension and maybe steering if needed also. I also still have to swap out the entire 4 corners on wishbones, track control arms etc, but bit by bit, so I can stay on the road while doing it all.
This way I get the vehicle almost like it felt when new off the production line in steering and road handling, and not banging its head off on every pot-hole or bump you go over, wanting you to let go of the steering wheel.
I speak into a microphone that types as fast as i can speak, so sorry if I ramble on, as more like me having a face to face conversation, as do not need the keyboard for much.
Good decision.
ML55s are getting harder to find, PLUS the amg style bumper replacements are pricey and even tracking down a good used one (whole suv or it's model specific parts, is more difficult (The plastics they used PC+ PBT (xenoy) on the bumpers at the onset, were brittle to begin with, and with age, now more like peanut brittle.
Yes, the prices they want for an ML55 is quite ridiculous here too in the GWN, especially on the West coast (with less rust issues vs. Mid &Central Canada)
btw, take a long look at amgdvl's ride over in the other forum. You'll appreciate his complete rebuild and dedication to the w163.
btw, take a long look at amgdvl's ride over in the other forum. You'll appreciate his complete rebuild and dedication to the w163.
Thanks for this khomer2. I am still working on another vehicle in between all this and I am trying not to push my carers too hard.
I cannot even get into my garage because of other vehicles and on-going projects, so am having to do the Merc outside, with the weather not playing nice most days as is the norm in the west coast of the UK.
Also I just came unstuck trying to polish the rocker covers to chrome mirror finish with autosol about 20 mins ago.
too far pitted after 18 years of weathering getting to them, so can only be VHT paint treated. But this will be okay.
Since I have the vehicle in sort of bits and in lock-down, I might try to get the rear shocks finished off.
I do not mind swapping them out, then taking it apart again in a few months to fit new wishbones and control arms etc.
I know what you say about the poly bushes, just a shame they do tend to squeak too much on loads of vehicles. But for road use, and the ocassional putting the foot down, OEM will do just fine on this Merc for my needs.
In case anyone reading this asks, why can I still be allowed to drive, .... I still have one good hand, right hand to drive with, hence I have had to change all vehicles to automatics unfortunately, but I do not mind too much now in life. ....
I doubt anyone here would question your eligibility to drive... rather, i think it is THE OPPOSITE.... all for it .... and sounds like you had to really overcome something! fantastic that you are "at it".... fantastic that you are working on your vehicles (with what sounds like a posse of people! )... but more importantly - great that you are enjoying this vehicle / working on it...and sharing with others ! cheers !
Hi silver ml500, I was hoping you may be able to offer me a bit of advice regarding your Bilstein set up. I am looking to replicate your B6 Front and Rear Shocks and B3 Rear Springs. My goal is to slightly raise the ride height of my 2004 ML 350 in order to run BFG KO2 285/70/17 tires and have appropriate ground clearance, mostly for heavy snow and light off road driving. I am guessing that the Bilstein set up in and of itself will allow me to run those tires along with adjusting the front torsion bars appropriately. However, I am wondering if I should purchase the 12MM ORC rear spring/strut spacer. This would obviously raise the rear height, however I am concerned it would be TOO high once installed with the Bilsteins. I also don't want to waste time and money having my mechanic trying to figure out what is best himself. Can you offer any guidance? Thanks in advance!
Originally Posted by silver ml500
The vehicle at the front now sits probably at the correct height, as when I bought it is sat a lot lower. I will not be lowering it, and will keep it factory set height.
Will add measurement tomorrow in day light. about 7-8 hours ahead over here in the UK from the US, so in darkness just now.at 23.27 hours
Front shock swap-over was easy, but had to cut the top mounts off with angle grinder as nothing to grip anymore as so rusted. Shocks from Bilstein, identical in height and fittings from old shocks I removed,
You may get off with using just two spring compressors, but I have workers to look out for, so safer to use 4 for piece of mind, as too many people injured around the world with doing these and not realising the amount of torque the are holding, before they let go on the threaded bolt, or worse.
Original front shock, also now new disc, refurbished and painted caliper, chassis leg also rust cured, painted and undersealed now I had to use 4 spring compressors on the rear springs, as I do not have access to any hydraulic spring compressors, so did it old school. This now is the front ride height, which is probably actually only now back up to factory pre-set height, as old shocks were not doing anything, to torsion bars were taking all the weight and strain.
but obviously not sagging and causing vehicle to be lower than was meant for off road drivng. (country lanes of dirt and forest tracks, not mud plugging)
Hi Dissaver, The 17" will fit no problem, you do not need to add rear spring spacers. I deliberately went for the original size ones, not smaller to lower, or higher to raise.
They sit still very high for original size springs, but the shocks are double action uprated, so are also holding the rear better than factory original nasty shocks.
On the front, I have to adjust the torsion bar height, but only need to do this on the height adjuster, with-out having to remove the bar and turn it.
My Merc I never knew was set-up for off road use, so rides extremely high with masses of clearance beyond what i see on any other ML's on the road.
So you should have no problem with the 17" tyres you mention.
There are two tyre sizes fitted by Merc as standard to these vehicles, where I have the older size, which is bigger profile and wider, as the newer models have smaller foot-print on the road for contact, but also have a lower profile, so will grip better on corners and not roll or sway so much.
I will post a pic in a day or so of the actual ride hight of the Merc. as she sits, as it is far too high for me as I am not intending going mountain climbing in it.
It sits 7" on all 4 corners above the tyre height, which is 175mm, so plenty of room for 17" slightly higher profile tyres.
The swap over of all 4 corners is very easy, idiot proof almost, so any home or diy mechanic can do this without any fuss.
If you have auto self levellers, you may have to look into this system, so ask here if this will be a problem.
A couple of vids on youtube even show beginning to end of exactly what to do on the rear ML350 shock and spring swap-out, which are all mostly the same upto the ML55.
The rear ones have three top nuts a bit hard to remove, as they are hard up almost against the chassis leg, so use a 1/4 drive ratchet and 13mm socket, as this small size ratchet and socket fits in no problem, a 3/8" drive is far to big and clumsy, or get s short dumpy 13mm rachet spanner, which is even a better fit.
Also, when fitting the rear springs, you would be better to have the original unit off the merc, as this will let you see exactly where the top plate sits on the spring.
If you guess it, just remember to have the top plate level with the sides of the spring and shock, and you are almost there, not sitting at an angle.
The top plate-bearing has a complete 360 degree turn on the spring, but only sits perfectly in one tiny position, so easier to use the old unit to get the exact place before you fully tighten up the shock onto the mount. this can only be set-up and achieved off the vehicle, no adjustment is possible on the vehicle.
Hi Dissaver,
Here are some images of how high my ML sits at present.
My headlights are inside, all 100% ready to be re-fitted.
I did the lens's and re-sealed the units as 18 years had taken its toll on the seal and was letting in water.
I live in 99% humidity most of the year up here, so water is a big problem on vehicles here.
175mm clearance from top of tyre to underside of wing I have still to fit up the rear mudflaps, done the front so far. Ground clearance is very good from these Bilstein shocks and springs This is also parked on a slope, but you can see the ride height. I am still waiting on my rocker covers. and all businesses on holiday just now, so along wait as vehicle is off the road just now.
Thank you so much!! Your pictures and information are very helpful. I think my plan will be to buy the spacers just in case I need them, but I may very well not need them. Interestingly enough, I can't seem to find a seller in the US for the Bilstein strut mounting kit with the spring perches, I may have to order them from Europe or maybe my mechanic can get them or just reuse what is on the car. Thanks again and Happy New Year!!
Originally Posted by silver ml500
Hi Dissaver,
Here are some images of how high my ML sits at present.
My headlights are inside, all 100% ready to be re-fitted.
I did the lens's and re-sealed the units as 18 years had taken its toll on the seal and was letting in water.
I live in 99% humidity most of the year up here, so water is a big problem on vehicles here.
No problem, yes, you will have to order them from Europe.
I think I gave the web sites I used to buy them.
I am in the UK, so also had to get them sent from europe to me here.
No problem, yes, you will have to order them from Europe.
I think I gave the web sites I used to buy them.
I am in the UK, so also had to get them sent from europe to me here.
I think you may have been replying to me instead of silver ML, so if that was the case, thank you! I have been doing research as much as I can on that site, this site and a few other places online. My plan at the moment is to replace all 4 shocks with Bilstein b6's, replace the rear springs with Bilstein b3's (not the heavy duty version of these springs), install 20mm spacers in the rear, and reindex the torsion bars. I still need to go over the details with my mechanic, but this should give me the ground clearance I am looking for while being able to fit 285/70/17's. My concern was the Bilstein set up may cause it to be too high for the spacers, but my thinking is probably not. We shall see!!
Were you able to replace the rear springs without reusing the plastic top hat that goes above the spring and below the strut mount? In you picture it appears that there is not plastic piece in use. Thanks.
Were you able to replace the rear springs without reusing the plastic top hat that goes above the spring and below the strut mount? In you picture it appears that there is not plastic piece in use. Thanks.
No Plastic mounts used or needed. Different set-up from factory original from MB.
These are high-end shocks and springs for aftermarket use.
They do not come with or use any plastic used by others.
Not needed.
Because my car is an overlanding vehicle and weighs 6,200 lbs. I recently did a video showing how I replaced the rear springs with the +300kg version that I ordered from Germany but still not enough. I need more strength.
Is it a shock issue or a spring issue?
Do you know the spring rate of the '4dot' ones you have from Germany?
Try contacting https://www.hypercoils.com/
That's who I went with for the rear- coilover setup (for lowering - 650 spring rate)
Re-purposed the rear oem strut parts to make it work (& B8s)
They can probably recommend a higher rate? (700-750+) for your setup.
I wish I could find a shock that was longer by 2-3 inches. I cannot find another application that has the ball joint on the bottom. I suppose I could find a strut insert and then have a welding shop do the transplant. But I think it's a spring issue. First, these Bilstein springs are way too long for the shocks. Once the strut is setup, you see how especially the bottom three coils get closer to each other. Once they're on the car and fully weighted, the 3 dot bottom coils would compress fully. The 4 dot ones have a bit more space but not much. They need to be stiffer overall. I don't know the rate. The car rides beautifully so I know I can go firmer with no degradation in ride. The front is setup really nicely using Bilstein 5165 remote reservoir shocks with 6 inches of travel.
I will contact your source. I think 750 to 800 lbs should work. I also wish I could find the heavy duty King springs from Australia but those are no longer available either. I've seen them and they have 3-4 less coils than the Bilstein but the coils are wound less tightly. I suppose it's a heavier gauge spring wire. But I haven't been able to find anyone who has these, new or old.
Talk to KYB tech support and speak with Guna.
He has good knowledge of the W163s.
KYB Excel Gs were a factory shock for these. Not 100% sure for rear fitment.
Also, he may suggest the KYB # 565102 aka MonoMax? This is a large piston 46mm HD shock for Trucks and SUVs.
11-02-2020, 06:48 PM
)... but more importantly - great that you are enjoying this vehicle / working on it...and sharing with others ! cheers !
