Driveshaft Problem
11-05-2002, 01:55 PM
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ML55
Driveshaft Problem
Over the past month I've heard a whirring noise coming from my 98 ML320. I checked all the bearings, thought maybe a wheel bearing but I couldn't find anything. Last week my wife was driving it and it started shaking violently, she stopped pulled over, the truck was idling/running fine. She started off again and around 30 mph it started again. She managed to get the truck home driving 20 mph and parked it. I climbed underneath to find the bearing that isolated the driveshaft had failed and now the driveshaft could be moved around easily. Anyone ever heard of this happening?
Also - I have removed the driveshaft and ordered a new one (btw - the MB dealer wanted $550 and I got it mailorder for $380). I needed to move the truck to a different spot so I started it, put it in gear (after taking the rear driveshaft out) and the truck would not move. Should the truck still move with FWD only if the rear driveshaft is out????
Thanks in advance for your help.
Mike
Boston, MA
Also - I have removed the driveshaft and ordered a new one (btw - the MB dealer wanted $550 and I got it mailorder for $380). I needed to move the truck to a different spot so I started it, put it in gear (after taking the rear driveshaft out) and the truck would not move. Should the truck still move with FWD only if the rear driveshaft is out????
Thanks in advance for your help.
Mike
Boston, MA
Last edited by mipawh; 11-05-2002 at 04:09 PM.
11-07-2002, 01:45 PM
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2000 ML 320
whoa
Thats really weird. Today, infact I heard a high-pitch noise beneath my car at speeds near 70 and during acceleration. It got annoying after a while. Anyhow I also have a thumping noise coming from what sounds like the tires but it does it at 10-20 miles an hour and only during turns. Maybe I have a bad driveshaft as well. Wouldn't suprise me at all if I did. As far as the FWD thing. I would imagine that the car would still pull in with FWD but, apparently not. Let that be a reminder to all the heavy off-roaders when they lose their rear drive shaft!
11-07-2002, 11:14 PM
#3
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I have had 2 driveshafts replaced because of center bearing failure. one at 48k and the other at 95k. They make a metal on metal dragging sound like a lathe.
As for the ml not moving without the drive shaft, it shouldn't. None of the differentials are locking. so the torque load goes to the lowest load ie the empty drive shaft spot. The torque management is accomplished by applying the brakes to load limit the slipping wheels.
As for the ml not moving without the drive shaft, it shouldn't. None of the differentials are locking. so the torque load goes to the lowest load ie the empty drive shaft spot. The torque management is accomplished by applying the brakes to load limit the slipping wheels.
11-09-2002, 09:22 PM
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just to follow up the truck is running fine now.
Boltonblue I can't believe you've had 2 driveshafts replaced, did the dealer cover the replacement on the shafts? BTW, thanks for the info on the differentials, makes sense and the truck drives fine now with the new shaft installed.
As I said I decided to go it alone with replacing mine. I'm tired of fighting with MB dealers just to get overcharged in the end. Not to say that I think a driveshaft should go at 85k on a 1998 MB (after all my dads 1987 Audi 5000 Turbo Quattro's driveshaft is still just fine with nearly 300k!!!!)
Anyway the repair was relatively easy if anyone is interested in doing it themselves. 6 bolts up front, 2 on the center bracket and 4 on the rear diff. Replacement time took a couple of hours with basic tools, I'm sure any half decent garage could get it in and out in an hour or so. Cost me $420 for the part and new bolts (includes overnight shipping), and about 3 hours of my time. Well worth a few scrapped knuckles and the satisfaction of not giving a MB dealership more of my money.
Boltonblue I can't believe you've had 2 driveshafts replaced, did the dealer cover the replacement on the shafts? BTW, thanks for the info on the differentials, makes sense and the truck drives fine now with the new shaft installed.
As I said I decided to go it alone with replacing mine. I'm tired of fighting with MB dealers just to get overcharged in the end. Not to say that I think a driveshaft should go at 85k on a 1998 MB (after all my dads 1987 Audi 5000 Turbo Quattro's driveshaft is still just fine with nearly 300k!!!!)
Anyway the repair was relatively easy if anyone is interested in doing it themselves. 6 bolts up front, 2 on the center bracket and 4 on the rear diff. Replacement time took a couple of hours with basic tools, I'm sure any half decent garage could get it in and out in an hour or so. Cost me $420 for the part and new bolts (includes overnight shipping), and about 3 hours of my time. Well worth a few scrapped knuckles and the satisfaction of not giving a MB dealership more of my money.
11-10-2002, 09:12 PM
#5
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technically it was the center bearing and not the drive shaft but it's one assembly.
first obviously was under warranty, second was mostly goodwill, MB paid a third dealer, paid a third, and I got the remainder of the shaft :o
first obviously was under warranty, second was mostly goodwill, MB paid a third dealer, paid a third, and I got the remainder of the shaft :o
