Several Service Questions :)
#1
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I have the 2000 ML-320 and its around 190,000K and would like to service the vehicle myself. I was wondering if any of you guys know the following things should or should not be done:
Transmission fluids - 7 liters or so and i don't remember when I had replace it probably around the Major service at 100K
Spark plugs and also the Spark wires - the plugs probably needs to be changed but the spark wires' life I'm not so sure and on, and wondered if any of you guys have changed them?
I also have some cracks or maybe completely broken engine mount on the driver's side that needs to be changed, and wondered if any of you guys have tips on how to replace those two?
Transmission fluids - 7 liters or so and i don't remember when I had replace it probably around the Major service at 100K
Spark plugs and also the Spark wires - the plugs probably needs to be changed but the spark wires' life I'm not so sure and on, and wondered if any of you guys have changed them?
I also have some cracks or maybe completely broken engine mount on the driver's side that needs to be changed, and wondered if any of you guys have tips on how to replace those two?
#2
You can replace just that one mount, but I don't know about the ML. On my Z, it was a bolt on as long as you have a way to lift the motor up some to insert the new mount.
Last edited by Darkmann; 08-05-2008 at 07:10 PM.
#3
I would ask professional help in flushing the A/T fluid. They use machine to completely flush out the entire fluid and re-prime it using the preferred fluid. I used T.P Repair Shop in El Cajon here in San Diego, CA. Better if you bring your own fluid so they can charge you labor which is $50.00.
#5
Junior Member
I would not recommend a flush of the trans fluids for two reasons.
1. To properly fulsh the sysyem it would take a lot of trans fluid to clear the system and lines. I would not use any other Trans fluid other than the MB brand and its not cheap.
2. I would want to have the filter replaced as well.
This is not something that is done often enought to think that you can take a short cut until the next time. I had my ML430 and E320 done for about $250 each at a local indy, fluild, filters and all. Peace of mind for me but you can do it yourself and Oh lord has the tools.
1. To properly fulsh the sysyem it would take a lot of trans fluid to clear the system and lines. I would not use any other Trans fluid other than the MB brand and its not cheap.
2. I would want to have the filter replaced as well.
This is not something that is done often enought to think that you can take a short cut until the next time. I had my ML430 and E320 done for about $250 each at a local indy, fluild, filters and all. Peace of mind for me but you can do it yourself and Oh lord has the tools.
#6
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Benz 4 jts is correct. You should only use Mercedes trans fluid. I work in a MB dealership, and believe me, you don't want to see what happens if you don't use it. You have two options for the trans. 1- take it to the nearest MB dealer or European car expert and let the flush it with a special flush machine. 2- do it in your drive way by draining and dropping the pan, replacing the filter and refilling. The problem with the second is if you only drop the pan, that's only 3qts of fluid. So you would have to let it run for a while, then shut it down and drain/refill it again. After a couple of times, it will be a pretty safe bet that the fluid is at least 90% new. Again, I would recommend the dealer though. The plugs are 100,000 mile intervals and I usually recommend plug wires with the plugs since they will usually cause a random misfire once they are disturbed. Things to look for are water marks around the outside and corrosion/rusting on the insides where they contact the spark plugs. If this area is not clean, replace them. The wires partially ground through this area and will create misfires if you don't. As for the engine mounts.... Well lets just say they aren't fun. The best way is to remove both front inner fender liners (plastic fender liners). Then unbolt the two nuts under the mounts that hold them to the frame. Undo the bolts/nuts that hold the mounts to the engine. Place a jack with a piece of wood on it on the oil pan and jack the engine up. Once you get it up high enough for the studs on the mounts to clear, pull them out. Just remember that the old ones are most likely collapsed and you will have to raise the engine slightly higher to install the new ones. The just put it back together in reverse order. What ever you do, don't use air tools to tighten them. If you do, or you pretend that you are the incredible Hulk, you will brake the studs out of the mounts. Just make them snug and then tighten a little more.