ApproachingZero

Started to change my GF's front pads on her 1999 ML430. I was using the T-40 Torx bit to get the two bolts out the back but they don't seem to be coming off. The rubber sleeve makes it difficult to use penetrating oil, but i did spray a little in there....

Anyone strip one of these or can then handle a lot of force? Any advice?

Speakerdude

As long as you have a good torx socket they are hard to strip. Torx bolts have a tremendously large surface area to distribute the force. You are more likely to break the torx head socket insert off than strip the bolt. I had to take a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor and put a breaker bar on my ML55. I went so far as to put a piece of pipe on the breaker bar to get enough leverage to bust them free. Just MAKE SURE the socket is in there good.

Steve

benzmodz

Advice ---- brakes stop your car. You are in over your head. Time for a workshop.

Speakerdude

I changed the pads and rotors on mine w/ no problem. Be careful that you don't break the sensor wires. The sensor lifts straight out. I went w/ slotted rotors and ceramic pads. No more brake dust. Dealer wanted $900 for stock parts, this was done for around $300 w/ parts from Tire Rack. It took me about an hour and a half total. I have put around 6K on it since then w/ no problems. If you have done disc brakes before on a car this is no different. One thing: use big tie wraps or something to hold the calipers and be careful not to drop them, the brake lines are the only thing that will still be attached and these calipers are heavy, especially on the AMG.

ApproachingZero

Good info, Thanks!

ApproachingZero

I have rebuilt engines and transmissions and done countless brake jobs. I am just preparing myself b/c it is hard to find a shop manuel for any info..... I will be ok.

Gullwing

I have broken tons of torx sockets (anything up to T50) and have never stripped out any that were larger then T30 (most of those were ones holding on brake rotors).

ApproachingZero

This is for those that do searches in the future....

You will not strip the bolt, but I did break the T-40 bit. We went to the hardware store and bought one of those much more improves two piece bits. We hooked it up to a 3 foot breaker bar and had no problems after that.

Just an FYI

chriswit1

I had the same problem, I actually stripped out two torx heads before I got the bolt out. and when I checked, the bolt was fine....So Id say use all the force necessary and don't worry about the bolts....they will hold up.

OttoBon100

Does the dealer put LocTite on these? I had a heck of a time getting them loose also. I can certainly understand that you don't want them coming out when you're cruising down the highway.

Marshall_K

I thought I'd change my front pads for the first time. I started on the change and realized I needed Torx bits. Went to Lowes and bought a set. Got down to business last night and on the first Bolt I broke the bit Ok so now what? I didn't like that I had to use an adapter to step down to the smaller bit size 3/8 to 1/4. but now my bit is busted. Also since the bolt is on the back side of the caliper its hard to get a good look at the head. Should I get a new bit and some PB oil and try agan?

boardboy330

WOW...old thread.



That being said...get a new bit and try again. Believe it or not...my Harbor Freight bits haven't broken yet...while many of the Craftsman's have.

Marshall_K

Yeah, I like to search the forum in case the question has been answered with good detail. With the W163 most issues have already been covered

OttoBon100

I had no problem at all with mine this time but when I did this previously on my '99 a few years ago it was a pain. Just changed pads and rotors on all four. First get yourself some good sockets and torx bits; e.g., Craftsman, not some junk. I have never broken a socket. I didn't have to use penetrating fluid at all but maybe where you live rust is a problem. Good luck. Easy job.

boardboy330

It's cool Marshall...I was just bustin your chops...plus I just had to use that pic.

OttoBon...just for clarity...you say to use Craftsman...but have you used the "junk" before? My Craftsmans broke and had to be replaced...

OttoBon100

I haven't used anything other than Craftsman for the past 40 odd some years and have never broken a Craftsman tool. Now when I was in the military for 20 years I broke some of the "junk" tools we had. I don't even remember the brand names we had then but it certainly wasn't anything of quality. That was a while ago.

Marshall_K

no prob booardboy
It sounds like a trip to sears is in order. The bits I had were Kobalt from Lowes.

tanman430

July 2007 wow!!! Well folks so I finally decided to upgrade the 2001 ML beast with Brembo GT brakes.. I was planning on changing just the pads but figured what the heck! Any pointers you guys have will help! Thanks in advance!!

PHML

I just changed my rotors and pads on New Years Day!!

Here's my experience with that darn torx bolt holding the rotor in place. I don't think its the torx bits...cuz I bought my torx bits from Harbor Freight...LOL!!!

Shoot lubricant (I used PB Blaster) on that torx bolt as soon as you remove the wheels....this will allow the lubricant to soak in there. After removing the caliper and swapping the brake pads....then I tackled the rotor.

My first try...I stripped that darn torx bolt like a M0tH3r!!! I was going to even try heating it up with a blow torch....but before I did that....I used a screw extractor kit....drilled it out....pounded the extractor bit into it...and tried reversing it out...still no luck....Im thinking Im in deep doodoo....and that I should just give up!! I tried lighting my blow torch...but the darn thing won't fire up....Im not a happy camper now.

I decided to vent my frustrations and wacked the rotor at least 12 times with my handy dandy 4 lb hammer. I hit that thing at every angle known to mankind....on the edges of the rotor, at the top hat, and even near the torx bolt. Doing this actually "shook" it loose. After all that banging of the rotor...and getting the attention of my neighbors ()....the torx bolt turned with ease....it was a miracle on New Years Day!!!

I did the following 3 rotors the same way....lube first....then wacking it....and the torx bolt came out with ease with my torx bit (no more stripping or using the extractor kit).

I hope this helps!!! Good luck guys!!

Pete

goodgood

Pete,
I stripped the same bolt. Hammered the devil out of the rotor to no avail. If your torix bolt is stripped, how could you turn it with the bit??? I put my bit back in and it just freewheeled.....nothing.




What next? Drilling? That bolt has no real purpose at all...
Darn it!


Almost done and then this....

PHML

Since its stripped....you need to use a screw extractor....drill it out...then pound the extractor bit into the stripped bolt....the counter-clockwise...extract it....but before doing this....go ahead and lube it and wack it with the 4 lb hammer.

goodgood

Thanks for the help. I just drilled it sideways (not straight in, but to an angle so I don't destroy the thread) and suddenly, the bolt started to unscrew and I removed it by hand. Finished the front wheels, now I need to buy a couple of those bolts. I still have the two rear pads and rotors to replace....anything I should know about the rear? Some people say the one needs to disengage the e-brakes by moving a wheel inside the rotor before the rotor can be taken off others say that you don't????....

PHML

No probs...glad to help. As for the rears...nothing special...just like the fronts.

Note that with the new pads and rotors...your brake fluid reservoir might be overflowing esp if it was a MAX level prior to starting the project...I had to siphon some out so it didn't overflow on me.

PHML

Oh....I forgot to add this about the rears....I believe you need to remove the calipers using a torx bit or 13mm socket...I forget already. The bolts are covered by smooth rubber cover. The other end of the bolts is covered by accordian style rubber boots which attaches to the hub assembly. That rubber boot surrounding the bolt kept them from backing out entirely when removing. I used a flat head screwdriver to leverage it against the caliper to usher the bolt out free from the hub assembly while continuing to turn the bolt counter-clockwise.

goodgood

Thanks again! Did you ever replace your rotor retaining bolt? where does one find them? MB dealers?