M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

99 ML430 Start Error

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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 12:02 PM
  #1  
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1993 Mercedes 190e 2.6, 1999 Mercedes ML430, 1998 Mercedes C230, 1986 Chevrolet K5 Blazer
Exclamation 99 ML430 Start Error

Car will start and run for 1-2 seconds. I took the car to the dealer (towed it there) and they told me i would need a new ECU (that is programmed to my vin number meaning cant replace with used one unless I replace all of the modules with a used set of VIN specific parts) meaning i would replace my ECU, AAM, Immobilizer and Key? So far that is what i have done. I purchased a used ECU/AAM/Immobilizer/Key off a parted out 99ML430 and installed them all in mine. I have posted 2 videos of my problem on youtube ill post links soon. I also have pics that i took of parts that i installed. The Key is synced to the AAM module (it locks and unlocks the car) it just doesnt stay running which i am guessing is the immobilizer killing the car but im not sure. In the second pic is the Immobilizer and Key barrel. To get the new key to work ( was shipped with steering column i removed the key barrel out of the new steering column and installed it into my steering column. Also used the matching immobilizer. also i forgot to mention that i didnt change out the old ABS module that sits next to the ECU. I do have the matching one to the ECU that i installed but i didnt think that the ABS module would keep the vehicle from running but who knows it could be giving a bad signal on startup?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imUUhikiprw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4Nd9cdCLDY
Attached Thumbnails 99 ML430 Start Error-img_08556.jpg   99 ML430 Start Error-img_08567.jpg  

Last edited by dagavelin; Dec 22, 2010 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 12:32 AM
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over a year later over 1000 views still pondering what to do with it.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 04:19 AM
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You are shooting in the dark...

The first dealer diagnosis of ECU problem sounds a bit unusual. Dealer should be able to hook up STAR diagnostics & pinpoint the root cause of shutdown.

Such a problem usually involves a multitude of systems/sensors. Hard to tell until tested by STAR diagnostic software..

That's why no body is replying...
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 07:09 AM
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I totally agree with mihir. It is very doubtful that the ECU is the cause of the problem.

After you towed it to the dealer, they must have provided you with a bill that listed the codes(s). What were they?

Was fuel delivery ruled out completely when this problem first occurred?
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 05:26 PM
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I never received a list of codes or anything, they told me they could replace the ecu with a new one for somewhere around $3k which i opted out of knowing i couldnt pay that much to fix the vehicle (still charged around $150 for diagnosis fee then had to push the suv back on the trailer myself no assistance from them whatsoever), when i asked him what my other options where thats when he told me that the 3 modules are vin specific and if u where to go the used route that I would need to buy all the modules off the same vehicle and replace them which is what i did. The dealership i took it to was in houston tx, since then ive been tinkering with it towed it up to wisconsin when i moved there. and now it is still siting in a friends garage while im about 4-5 hours away from it. i could get him to see if he can get the obd II to pull up any codes on it.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 05:56 PM
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Was fuel delivery ruled out when you first had this problem?

Also, are you having the same exact problem now as you were having originally?
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 06:28 PM
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Not sure what they did to say it was the ecu. I assumed (we all know what that turns out to do) that the fuel delivery was fine since i could get it to start but it would shut down as soon as it starts. I havnt worked on the vehicle in a while due to it being at a friends house in WI and i now live in northwest ohio. If anyone has any ideas on anything to try as far as fuel delivery issues i could pass them along to him and see what he has to say we are both basicly shade tree mechanics.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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he did say he put a set of resisters on the immobilizer and that allowed it to run for a about 30 seconds before it melted the resisters, i wasnt there so i could say exactly what the resisters where put between.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dagavelin
he did say he put a set of resisters on the immobilizer and that allowed it to run for a about 30 seconds before it melted the resisters, i wasnt there so i could say exactly what the resisters where put between.

This is not good news for you. When the resistors melted, something of great necessity was also damaged. Who knows and what is a crap shoot.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 06:38 PM
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so basicly take my rims/tires off and send it on its way to the junk yard for $400 vs several thousand dollars at the dealer for a car that can be picked up on ebay for around 6-8k
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 06:57 PM
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ECUs can't be that expensive to replace...

Firstly any ECU can be reprogrammed to your car's VIN. How else can the dealer sell you a replacement ECU for $3k?

It sounds that there are indeed a multitude of systems/sensors damaged in your case.

More than likely junking it would be your best option...

MBs can get herrendously expensive to fix...this kind of fix is not worth pursuing on a 10+ year old ML..
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by dagavelin
so basicly take my rims/tires off and send it on its way to the junk yard for $400 vs several thousand dollars at the dealer for a car that can be picked up on ebay for around 6-8k

I wouldn't go that far, but the immobilizer is directly wired to the Eng. Control Module and in turn to the AAM, both for key recognition.

Please answer the questions:

After you switched ECM, AAM etc. from donor car to yours, did the exact problem remain as originally?

After he fried the immobilizer, was the truck able to start and shut off like it did before?
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 07:12 PM
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after switching the modules the problem did remain the same
after he fried the immobilizer i have no idea if he was able to do anything else with it, thats all he told me about and i guess for a good reason all he told me was he was able to get it to run for about 30 seconds
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 07:14 PM
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if it is the immobilizer is there any way to bypass/remove it?
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by dagavelin
if it is the immobilizer is there any way to bypass/remove it?

No there is not.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 07:16 PM
  #16  
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ive even entertained the idea of an aftermarket ecu/fuel control system but i doubt anything like that would exist or even if it did and would work for the car, it would probably cost just as much as taking it to the dealer and replacing whatever it needs. Even considered droping in a 350 sbc
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dagavelin
after switching the modules the problem did remain the same
after he fried the immobilizer i have no idea if he was able to do anything else with it, thats all he told me about and i guess for a good reason all he told me was he was able to get it to run for about 30 seconds
No one knows what the status of all the electronic parts are, but ask this guy to insert the key into the ignition and turn it to pos. #2 and watch to see that the LED light blinks. Key recognition.

If you don't want to can the truck, you might have to change everything back to your original equipment and start from there.
Attached Thumbnails 99 ML430 Start Error-das-led.jpg  

Last edited by Maj. Dundee; Jan 29, 2012 at 07:24 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 07:32 PM
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I'll give that a try, will let u know as soon as he tries it. Thanks for all your input.
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 04:12 PM
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Sorry to resurrect, but have you tried anything like this service on eBay?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-ML3...FWLYLZ&vxp=mtr
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