M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

Front and rear windshield washer

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Old 03-28-2013, 05:05 AM
  #26  
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2001 Ml 320
Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
No problem with the rain, I understand.

Tell me what happened. Did these things all go out at the same time. I should have asked you this, but moreover you should have told me.

Also, please answer the question in post #23.

Hi Maj,

only had car for about a month and spending alot of time on this forum lol.
and was trying to find out how to programme remote and got to conclusion sorry :-(

When i pull on steering to spray water the wipers will work it just the water that will not come out.


Kind Regards
Old 03-28-2013, 05:36 AM
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Look at the diagram of the washer pump and follow the orange tracer. Fuse #7 supplies power to the washer pump from the white wire and stops there. When you hit the switch the plunger makes contact and then supplies that same voltage to the blue wire up to the fuse box.

Inside the fuse box the voltage is passed from one connector on to the other to supply voltage to the pump. At the same time a voltage signal is sent to the AAM (N10) to let it know that the wiper relay must be activated.

My theory is, the voltage is passing from the switch through the first blue wire but isn't coming out of the other one.

Let's assume that there was something wrong with the wiper motor and it didn't work. If you hit the washer switch, the pump would work and squirt the windshield but the wiper motor wouldn't come on.

So in essence, the wiper motor is not necessary for the pump to work and neither is the AAM, but in your case the AAM is working because the wipers come on. So the AAM is OK.

I am hoping the you will find wires chewed by a rodent inside the fuse box and all of your problems with the wiper and the locks will be solved.
Attached Thumbnails Front and rear windshield washer-2013-03-28_051650.jpg  

Last edited by Maj. Dundee; 03-28-2013 at 05:39 AM.
Old 03-28-2013, 06:03 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Look at the diagram of the washer pump and follow the orange tracer. Fuse #7 supplies power to the washer pump from the white wire and stops there. When you hit the switch the plunger makes contact and then supplies that same voltage to the blue wire up to the fuse box.

Inside the fuse box the voltage is passed from one connector on to the other to supply voltage to the pump. At the same time a voltage signal is sent to the AAM (N10) to let it know that the wiper relay must be activated.

My theory is, the voltage is passing from the switch through the first blue wire but isn't coming out of the other one.

Let's assume that there was something wrong with the wiper motor and it didn't work. If you hit the washer switch, the pump would work and squirt the windshield but the wiper motor wouldn't come on.

So in essence, the wiper motor is not necessary for the pump to work and neither is the AAM, but in your case the AAM is working because the wipers come on. So the AAM is OK.

I am hoping the you will find wires chewed by a rodent inside the fuse box and all of your problems with the wiper and the locks will be solved.
Thanks Maj,


i look forward to giving it a go soon as rain stops,

Should i disconnect battery when removing fuse box? than reconnect?
will this also explain the rear pump as well?

Kindest Regards
Old 03-28-2013, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Glenn Polner
Thanks Maj,


i look forward to giving it a go soon as rain stops,

Should i disconnect battery when removing fuse box? than reconnect?
will this also explain the rear pump as well?

Kindest Regards

No need to disconnect the battery. Just lay the fuse/relay side on a towel. Don't worry Ive done it plenty of times..
Old 03-28-2013, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
OK, now we have to move to the fuse box. Remove both plastic covers. Then remove 3 additional screws and pull fuse/relay module out of box and lay it on its back on a folded towel. Turn key on.

1. Locate connector C/B wire #4 Blue have someone hit the washer switch and you test for 12 v at the blue wire. Results?

2. Then locate connector ML/A wire #2 Blue, have someone hit washer etc. Results?

Note, all connectors run as follows: top row 1,3,5,7 etc. bottom row 2,4,6,8 etc.
Hi Maj,

Please see below

1. Locate connector C/B wire #4 Blue have someone hit the washer switch and you test for 12 v at the blue wire. Results - 10.70 Volts

2. Then locate connector ML/A wire #2 Blue, have someone hit washer etc. Results - 10.70 Volts

Kindest Regards
Old 03-28-2013, 10:25 PM
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Well Glenn the next obvious step is to conduct the same test at the Blue wire on the small washer pump. Also check for continuity to ground at the Brown wire.

Why it's taking a voltage drop of almost 2v I don't know.
Old 03-28-2013, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Well Glenn the next obvious step is to conduct the same test at the Blue wire on the small washer pump. Also check for continuity to ground at the Brown wire.

Why it's taking a voltage drop of almost 2v I don't know.
Hi Maj,

Checked Continuity and is all good,

Checked both pumps at plug and no power at all,

Kind Regards
Old 03-28-2013, 11:45 PM
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Then you have to trace the BLUE wire coming from ML/A to the pump. It is a direct wire from the fuse box to the pump with no interruptions.

I still think you will find rodent damage or broken wires.
Old 03-29-2013, 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Then you have to trace the BLUE wire coming from ML/A to the pump. It is a direct wire from the fuse box to the pump with no interruptions.

I still think you will find rodent damage or broken wires.
Maj,


You are a legend, followed and broken wire

Repaired both, bang back to life.

Can i say i love you lol

thanks so much!
Old 03-29-2013, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Glenn Polner
Maj,


You are a legend, followed and broken wire

Repaired both, bang back to life.

Can i say i love you lol

thanks so much!

Glad it's sorted out.

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