Service Report
06-19-2013, 10:59 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Service Report
Hi Guys,
i got a service report from the dealer on what needed to be fix,
front break Pads $260
rear brake pads $230
engine mounts, Trans mount for all 3 about $960
torsion bar bushings $450
fuel pump $2400
do you guys think this is over kill on the price,
i got a service report from the dealer on what needed to be fix,
front break Pads $260
rear brake pads $230
engine mounts, Trans mount for all 3 about $960
torsion bar bushings $450
fuel pump $2400
do you guys think this is over kill on the price,
06-20-2013, 03:47 PM
#2
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ML430 E320 S500
yes!!!! Please get another professional opinion!! how do they know all three mounts are bad??? yes, I would change all three on my vehicles at the same time but what kind of diagnosis they ran to determine the consequences?? and for God sake what kind of fuel pump they planing to install, made out of Gold?? the break job with OEM should be around $175-275 including the disk job!
06-20-2013, 03:52 PM
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ML430 E320 S500
here for the fuel pump:After diagnosing, researching, ordering parts and setting aside about 6-hours, I replaced my fuel pump and upgraded to a large capacity fuel filter and pressure regulator.
DIAGNOSING:
In my case, the car lost the ability to accelerate in gear. It would start and idle fine and you could accelerate the engine in Park or Neutral, but not "under load." It turned out that the fuel pump was partially working - but not when the engine made a significant demand for fuel.
I had both fuel trim error codes:
P0170 (Bank 1)
P0173 (Bank 2)
In addition, during live view, my OBD2 code reader captured very low Short Term Fuel Trim STFT percentages (as low as 2.3%).
RESEARCH:
Here are links to the reference information I found most helpful:
1. From Azinn comes a post with lots of great photos and a great overview on the ML320 fuel system:
Wolfgang's MB Page: M-Class Fuel Pump and Sender
2. Also from Asinn comes a post with fuel pump and filter replacement steps and photos:
Wolfgang's MB Page: Fuel Filter Install
3. Finally, this is the Mercedes service bulletin describing the need to upgrade to a large capacity fuel filter and pressure regulator (these 4-pages were absolutely critical):
Wolfgang's MB Page: Fuel Filter Install
ORDERING PARTS:
I purchased all the parts from GermanStar in Arizona. They delivered almost immediately and I paid:
Pump - $320 (dealer wanted $517)
Filter - $75 (dealer wanted $156)
3-fuel lines - $75 (dealer wanted $136)
THE WORK:
It's true, you will spend 3X the time preparing to do the replacement, so don't get in a hurry.
Step 1 - Remove the 2/3's rear seat (just behind the driver's seat).
You start by removing the side floor trim piece (it pulls up in the back and the inside, then you pull it forward). Next, you remove the trim piece that covers the bolts on the back side of the rear seats (you need to partially collapse both seats to see, then pop-up this trim piece). Be careful, it's easy to get part of these pieces up, and if the adjacent part is still secure, you can break it (fortunately I was warned, so I had no breakage).
Next, have your Torx E12 socket wrench ready (as well as a 16MM socket wrench - the seats are secured with both). You can purchase a great little Torx socket set from Sears for $29 - online or in the stores (sears part number is 9-34570). This set includes the E8 socket you will need if you replace your Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Remove all the torx bolts and 16-MM nuts from the 2/3rd seat. The back inside corner of the 2/3 seat sits under the mounting plate of the 1/3rd seat. You won't have to remove the 1/3 seat completely - just remove the bolts in the back - then you can lift the back of the 1/3rd seat up about an inch (enough to remove the 2/3rd seat.
It's a bit easier if you remove the front bolts and nuts first, then partially collapse the seat (not enough to lock it all the way down) and remove the back bolts and nuts. when you are done, press the seat all the way down and lock it.
Next move the driver's and front passenger seats all the way forward. Then tilt the 2/3rd seat up and lean it against the drivers seat. This will give you the needed room to do the replacement.
Step 2 - Move the carpet out of the way.
This step is easy. You can lift the carpet up and it will slide out from the door sill trim pieces. Pull it toward the driver's seat. I used a bungie cord to hold the carpet out of your way (I connected the bungie cord to the front passenger headrest).
Step 3 - Remove the cover.
You will immediately see a circular cover about 7-inches in diameter. It is held in place with body sealant. You can remove it with a sharp wood chisel. Slide the chisel under the cover and work it slowly around. It comes up fairly easily.
Step 4 - Relieve the pressure in the fuel lines.
Start your engine. While it's running, remove the electrical connection to the fuel pump. In about 5-seconds your engine will die, and you will no longer have pressure in your fuel lines. (turn you car off).
Step 5 - Disconnect the fuel lines from the pump.
Mercedes has a special tool for this, but unless you are Andre the giant, you don't need it. Just pinch the rear fuel connector and lift it up. That will give you enough space to remove the forward connector. There will be a very small amount of gas drip out of these lines (but only for a couple seconds - not enough to spill out of the pump well).
Step 6 - Remove the left rear wheel and fender well.
I play it safe anytime I jack-up my car - I set the parking break, and use wood to block all of the other three tires. After I remove the wheel, I stack some 4x4 blocks of wook and lower the car so that half the weight of the car is shared by the wood block and half with the jack. I think this is necessary, since you will be working with the jack between your legs for the next 90-minutes and it's impossible not to bump it.
Once the wheel is removed, you use a 10mm socket to remove the bolts holding the fender well - be gentle, they are plastic. By the way, if you have the fender accents installed on your car (as I do), you will need to remove the accent before you can remove the fencer well - use a T25 Torx screw driver for this removal. It's not difficult when the wheel is removed.
Step 7 - Remove the old filter.
The filter sits on the chassis, just forward of the rear axel - you can see it clearly if you lay on the ground (get used to this position). There is a clamp that you can loosen with a slotted screw driver. When it is loose, you can pinch the fuel lines and disconnect them from the filter. The small vent line can be removed by un-snapping the tiny metal clamp. Use a small screw driver and lift the cover of the clamp and it will snap open - and you can disconnect the vent line (and you use a standard set of pliers to re-snap this clamp when you attach the new filter - works great).
Step 8 - Remove the Fuel Pump.
Now you go back inside the car and it gets tricky. Mercedes has a special tool to unscrew the plastic retainer cap on the fuel pump. But you can rig a tool that will work. The sides and the top of the plastic retainer cap have ridges. I found a scrap piece of wood that was 5-3/4 inches long and about 1-inch wide and about 1/2 inch thick. I found that I could place this piece of wood on top of the plastic retainer cap and it fit firmly between the cap's ridges. Next I used a pair of large vice-grips to grip the middle of the wood, and another vice grip attached to the side of the large vice grip for twisting leverage. I placed the wood on top of the plastic retainer cap, with my left hand, I held it on the cap, with my right hand, I used the second vice grip to twist counter clock-wise and it unscrewed easily. Remove the cap and get a large bucket ready.
Lift the fuel pump out of the gas tank. You will need to tilt the pump towards the front of the car to get the pump and the pick-up line out. Be ready, gas will spill, so have rags at the ready. Place the pump into the bucket (no smoking).
Step 9 - Install the new Pump.
Before you place the new pump into the gas tank, notice that the black pick-up extension should point directly towards the front of the car, and the fuel level float should point toward the right side of the car. Insert the black pick-up extension into the tank first, followed by the tan fuel level float. When these two items are in the tank you can lower the pump into the tank.
On the top of the pump you will see a small triangle. It is critical that this triangle point directly toward the right side of the car. If it is off, the float will be restricted from rising to the top of the tank (your fuel guage will never show completely full).
The bottom of the pump will sit on the floor of the gas tank, and the top is spring loaded. After you fit the black rubber gasget inside the tank opening, gently press the top of the pump down as far as it will go. With your other hand, place the new plastic retainer cap on top of the pump and screw it as far as you can by hand. You will need to use the same "wood, vice grip" tool to tighten the new retainer cap.
Step 10 - Install the new Filter.
Back to laying on the ground. The Mercedes service bulletin was critical for me (since I was upgrading to the large capacity filter. It clearly shows how the fuel lines need to be connected and routed.
First, connect the u-shaped fuel line (this might be unique to an upgrade situation - this step might be unnecessary for a late 2000 or newer car). Connect the two fuel pump lines to the filter. Next connect the tiny vent line to the new filter (use a pair of pliers to re-snap the clamp). Feed the fuel pump lines into the cavity towards the top of the fuel pump, and wiggle the filter above the chassis and towards the back of the car. This will take some wiggling, but it will move far back enough that you can slide the retaining clamp over the bottom of the filter. Connect the fuel line to the bottom of the filter. Center the filter and tighten the clamp.
Finally, connect the two fuel lines to the top of the fuel pump (back inside the car). And then connect the electrical line to the filter.
Step 11 - start your car and check for leaks.
Turn you key to the #2 position, but don't start the car right away (give it a few seconds for the fuel pump to arm). Start the car. It will take a few more seconds to start, but it will. Check for leaks with a flashlight (don't use your lighter or a candle). Don't try to identify a leak by smell, because at this point everything smells like gas (including you).
Step 12 - Closing up the patient.
Everything in reverse. Use Body Sealant to re-secure the cover over the fuel pump. Release the carpet from the bungie cord, and use a slotted screw driver to slide the edge of the carpet under the door sill trim. I used this opportunity to vacumn the back half of the car - you have great access now. Use lock-tite on all the seat bolts and nuts. Replace and re-attach the wheel well, accent (if you have one), and finally the wheel (tighten to 90-newton meters or 110 foot-pounds of tork). Properly dispose of the old parts, and take a shower.
I would have loved to have this detailed step-by-step, so I thought I would create it for others.
DIAGNOSING:
In my case, the car lost the ability to accelerate in gear. It would start and idle fine and you could accelerate the engine in Park or Neutral, but not "under load." It turned out that the fuel pump was partially working - but not when the engine made a significant demand for fuel.
I had both fuel trim error codes:
P0170 (Bank 1)
P0173 (Bank 2)
In addition, during live view, my OBD2 code reader captured very low Short Term Fuel Trim STFT percentages (as low as 2.3%).
RESEARCH:
Here are links to the reference information I found most helpful:
1. From Azinn comes a post with lots of great photos and a great overview on the ML320 fuel system:
Wolfgang's MB Page: M-Class Fuel Pump and Sender
2. Also from Asinn comes a post with fuel pump and filter replacement steps and photos:
Wolfgang's MB Page: Fuel Filter Install
3. Finally, this is the Mercedes service bulletin describing the need to upgrade to a large capacity fuel filter and pressure regulator (these 4-pages were absolutely critical):
Wolfgang's MB Page: Fuel Filter Install
ORDERING PARTS:
I purchased all the parts from GermanStar in Arizona. They delivered almost immediately and I paid:
Pump - $320 (dealer wanted $517)
Filter - $75 (dealer wanted $156)
3-fuel lines - $75 (dealer wanted $136)
THE WORK:
It's true, you will spend 3X the time preparing to do the replacement, so don't get in a hurry.
Step 1 - Remove the 2/3's rear seat (just behind the driver's seat).
You start by removing the side floor trim piece (it pulls up in the back and the inside, then you pull it forward). Next, you remove the trim piece that covers the bolts on the back side of the rear seats (you need to partially collapse both seats to see, then pop-up this trim piece). Be careful, it's easy to get part of these pieces up, and if the adjacent part is still secure, you can break it (fortunately I was warned, so I had no breakage).
Next, have your Torx E12 socket wrench ready (as well as a 16MM socket wrench - the seats are secured with both). You can purchase a great little Torx socket set from Sears for $29 - online or in the stores (sears part number is 9-34570). This set includes the E8 socket you will need if you replace your Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Remove all the torx bolts and 16-MM nuts from the 2/3rd seat. The back inside corner of the 2/3 seat sits under the mounting plate of the 1/3rd seat. You won't have to remove the 1/3 seat completely - just remove the bolts in the back - then you can lift the back of the 1/3rd seat up about an inch (enough to remove the 2/3rd seat.
It's a bit easier if you remove the front bolts and nuts first, then partially collapse the seat (not enough to lock it all the way down) and remove the back bolts and nuts. when you are done, press the seat all the way down and lock it.
Next move the driver's and front passenger seats all the way forward. Then tilt the 2/3rd seat up and lean it against the drivers seat. This will give you the needed room to do the replacement.
Step 2 - Move the carpet out of the way.
This step is easy. You can lift the carpet up and it will slide out from the door sill trim pieces. Pull it toward the driver's seat. I used a bungie cord to hold the carpet out of your way (I connected the bungie cord to the front passenger headrest).
Step 3 - Remove the cover.
You will immediately see a circular cover about 7-inches in diameter. It is held in place with body sealant. You can remove it with a sharp wood chisel. Slide the chisel under the cover and work it slowly around. It comes up fairly easily.
Step 4 - Relieve the pressure in the fuel lines.
Start your engine. While it's running, remove the electrical connection to the fuel pump. In about 5-seconds your engine will die, and you will no longer have pressure in your fuel lines. (turn you car off).
Step 5 - Disconnect the fuel lines from the pump.
Mercedes has a special tool for this, but unless you are Andre the giant, you don't need it. Just pinch the rear fuel connector and lift it up. That will give you enough space to remove the forward connector. There will be a very small amount of gas drip out of these lines (but only for a couple seconds - not enough to spill out of the pump well).
Step 6 - Remove the left rear wheel and fender well.
I play it safe anytime I jack-up my car - I set the parking break, and use wood to block all of the other three tires. After I remove the wheel, I stack some 4x4 blocks of wook and lower the car so that half the weight of the car is shared by the wood block and half with the jack. I think this is necessary, since you will be working with the jack between your legs for the next 90-minutes and it's impossible not to bump it.
Once the wheel is removed, you use a 10mm socket to remove the bolts holding the fender well - be gentle, they are plastic. By the way, if you have the fender accents installed on your car (as I do), you will need to remove the accent before you can remove the fencer well - use a T25 Torx screw driver for this removal. It's not difficult when the wheel is removed.
Step 7 - Remove the old filter.
The filter sits on the chassis, just forward of the rear axel - you can see it clearly if you lay on the ground (get used to this position). There is a clamp that you can loosen with a slotted screw driver. When it is loose, you can pinch the fuel lines and disconnect them from the filter. The small vent line can be removed by un-snapping the tiny metal clamp. Use a small screw driver and lift the cover of the clamp and it will snap open - and you can disconnect the vent line (and you use a standard set of pliers to re-snap this clamp when you attach the new filter - works great).
Step 8 - Remove the Fuel Pump.
Now you go back inside the car and it gets tricky. Mercedes has a special tool to unscrew the plastic retainer cap on the fuel pump. But you can rig a tool that will work. The sides and the top of the plastic retainer cap have ridges. I found a scrap piece of wood that was 5-3/4 inches long and about 1-inch wide and about 1/2 inch thick. I found that I could place this piece of wood on top of the plastic retainer cap and it fit firmly between the cap's ridges. Next I used a pair of large vice-grips to grip the middle of the wood, and another vice grip attached to the side of the large vice grip for twisting leverage. I placed the wood on top of the plastic retainer cap, with my left hand, I held it on the cap, with my right hand, I used the second vice grip to twist counter clock-wise and it unscrewed easily. Remove the cap and get a large bucket ready.
Lift the fuel pump out of the gas tank. You will need to tilt the pump towards the front of the car to get the pump and the pick-up line out. Be ready, gas will spill, so have rags at the ready. Place the pump into the bucket (no smoking).
Step 9 - Install the new Pump.
Before you place the new pump into the gas tank, notice that the black pick-up extension should point directly towards the front of the car, and the fuel level float should point toward the right side of the car. Insert the black pick-up extension into the tank first, followed by the tan fuel level float. When these two items are in the tank you can lower the pump into the tank.
On the top of the pump you will see a small triangle. It is critical that this triangle point directly toward the right side of the car. If it is off, the float will be restricted from rising to the top of the tank (your fuel guage will never show completely full).
The bottom of the pump will sit on the floor of the gas tank, and the top is spring loaded. After you fit the black rubber gasget inside the tank opening, gently press the top of the pump down as far as it will go. With your other hand, place the new plastic retainer cap on top of the pump and screw it as far as you can by hand. You will need to use the same "wood, vice grip" tool to tighten the new retainer cap.
Step 10 - Install the new Filter.
Back to laying on the ground. The Mercedes service bulletin was critical for me (since I was upgrading to the large capacity filter. It clearly shows how the fuel lines need to be connected and routed.
First, connect the u-shaped fuel line (this might be unique to an upgrade situation - this step might be unnecessary for a late 2000 or newer car). Connect the two fuel pump lines to the filter. Next connect the tiny vent line to the new filter (use a pair of pliers to re-snap the clamp). Feed the fuel pump lines into the cavity towards the top of the fuel pump, and wiggle the filter above the chassis and towards the back of the car. This will take some wiggling, but it will move far back enough that you can slide the retaining clamp over the bottom of the filter. Connect the fuel line to the bottom of the filter. Center the filter and tighten the clamp.
Finally, connect the two fuel lines to the top of the fuel pump (back inside the car). And then connect the electrical line to the filter.
Step 11 - start your car and check for leaks.
Turn you key to the #2 position, but don't start the car right away (give it a few seconds for the fuel pump to arm). Start the car. It will take a few more seconds to start, but it will. Check for leaks with a flashlight (don't use your lighter or a candle). Don't try to identify a leak by smell, because at this point everything smells like gas (including you).
Step 12 - Closing up the patient.
Everything in reverse. Use Body Sealant to re-secure the cover over the fuel pump. Release the carpet from the bungie cord, and use a slotted screw driver to slide the edge of the carpet under the door sill trim. I used this opportunity to vacumn the back half of the car - you have great access now. Use lock-tite on all the seat bolts and nuts. Replace and re-attach the wheel well, accent (if you have one), and finally the wheel (tighten to 90-newton meters or 110 foot-pounds of tork). Properly dispose of the old parts, and take a shower.
I would have loved to have this detailed step-by-step, so I thought I would create it for others.
06-26-2013, 03:19 AM
#4
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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2002 ML320, 2003 A160
Thanks for the write-up, but you can save a lot of typing by just uploading the TSB (with instructions), as I did.
You've listed a number of links, but none of them work. Can you edit your post and use the "insert link" button please?
You've listed a number of links, but none of them work. Can you edit your post and use the "insert link" button please?
06-26-2013, 03:31 AM
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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2002 ML320, 2003 A160
Brakes you can run until the wear indicators start beeping. They have a sensor.
Engine mounts you can test yourself. If you think they're OK, don't replace them. (Normally broken mounts cause symptoms.)
Torsion bar bushings you can check by inspecting the brackets. This YouTube video shows you how.
If your fuel pump is faulty, it should also be causing symptoms.
That list is almost the same as mine when I go to the dealer. Take it with a grain of salt, unless there are actual issues.
