outbackjackinoz

Still no joy and no real indie Merc Mechs in town.

Problem 1

Uses about 2 litres of water per 60 kms. Engine runs fine and have tried gasket in a bottle etc. Current Mech ( No4 ) doesnt believe it is the head, stating it runs to good to be head or Gasket. He is still looking for a leak.

Problem 2
When cold it is hard to start. Turning the key to the crank position, will make the engine crank only once. Then you need to repeat the process about 15 times or so. Then it will continue to crank until it starts

Problem 3
When cold Transmission indicator show R or P even if in D. It will drive in limp mode. After a few minutes things will return to normal and transmission will run faultless.


Alll of the problems have the dealer and mechanices stumped..........

Maj. Dundee

I don't know what is available to you in Aust. but you need something like this to determine if you have a combustion leak.

http://www.rxauto.com/blocktest.htm

outbackjackinoz

OK seems its a head or head gasket.

After several months mechanic put a pressure gauge on it.

Seems the pressure goes above 20psi if you load the engine up.

Also when you rev the engine, the top and bottom hoses go flat.

Also found the passenger floor was flooded. I think it may be coming from sunroof.

Still has starting isssue and transmission not going into drive when cold....

So not sure what to do, its going to cost at least 3 grand to repair. Not sure if its worth fixing.

It maye end up as scrap yet...............

Maj. Dundee

When the hoses go flat, it is caused by a faulty pressure cap. Buy the correct one, not just any cap.

outbackjackinoz

Thanks MD, I used a GATES equilavent.

Maybe I need to find another mechanic and get them to go over it again.

Seems it may not be head, wishful thinking I know.

But notice the cap is rated to 20psi.

Current mechanic said it goes over this under load.

Maj. Dundee

I cannot understand what you are trying to say. Did the new cap eliminate the hose flattening?

Hopefully you have the vehicle with you and not at the mechanic shop. Suggestions on fixes can only be done when you are in possession of the veh.

outbackjackinoz

Sorry, having two strokes makes the connection from my brain to what a type a bit muddle upped sometimes.....

Car is at mechanic number 3 until the weekend. I cant get it home yet, I have let the registration run out, cant really afford it doing nothing. So will truck it home.

Cap was replaced when I replaced the recovery bottle, both after market. This was a few months ago.

Since then car has been sitting with mechanic, who rang me last week and said it was the head.

He said he did a pressure test and it raise to above 20 psi when he reved engine with foot on the brake.

Fault was orginally using water with bottom hose going flat, now top hose goes flat and not fixed yet

Maj. Dundee

Something is wrong here. Using a pressure tester as the engine is running is dangerous because there is no venting/pressure relief as there is with a cap. It will continue to build pressure and never stop.

If there is suspicion that there is a head gasket/combustion problem, the best way to determine it is by using this product.

http://www.blockchek.com/

outbackjackinoz

OK Update time.

Car went to Indie European Car Mechanic on Tuesday.

Pressure test done. It held pressure over night, although top and bottom hoses was flat.

Then I mentioned I changed over recovery bottle. That I wasnt sure if I had the hoses on the passenger side in the right spot. There are two hoses about the same size that go into the recovery bottle. We checked them and one had a check valve inline. He thought I may have them around the wrong way. So he has changed them over, both top and bottom hose now have pressure and dont go flat. He then let it run for an hour and it appeared OK.

He is going to check it tommorrow when engine is cold, if all good, he will then take if for a good run to check it out.

Fingers crossed it will run great and not use anywater...........

Update later when I have more info.....

outbackjackinoz

OK car still hasnt had a good run.

Mechanic is going to do transmission service
Replace the connector going into transmission, hopefully fixing the not shifting and no gear display.

If that is ok, he will then take it for a good run and see how it goes.

He seems to think we have fixed the coolant loss issue..
Fingers crossed.

outbackjackinoz

Update:

Auto serviced today. This fixed the problem of being in limp home mode and no gear display on the dash. The fluid came out like engine oil, it was very black and smelt burnt. I dont think it has ever been changed from new....... So 120k kms and 14 years is not to late.... I will change it again in about 2k kms which will be about a month. This should give a flush.

Engine seems to be fixed. Mechanic is going to do last check tommorrow. He wants to do a pressure test when its cold. He has done it a few times and it didnt show anything.

I have asked him to do an oil and oil filter change. Then it should be ready to be picked up.

I still have to do the following.

Sun roof is leaking Will check drain tubes etc
Sun roof roof lining falling down Not sure what to do
Aux Coolant pump Have to find part number again, but will replace it with vw one
Drivers window sticking I think I have to replace console switch
ESP lights etc Dont know about this one yet
Passenger door card gets caught Dont know about this one either, might just put a scew in it.

Probably several other things I probably missed.


So fingers crossed I will get it home tommorrow.

I am going to take it for a run of at least 150kms tommorrow, something it hasnt done in probably several years.

Longest run I have done so far is around 60kms....

outbackjackinoz

Nothing to much to report really.


Picked car up and noticed OIL HI warning on speedo. Asked Mechanic about it and he said it was a faulty sensor???
So drove almost all the way home(about 40kms), smoke started to bellow out etc. So pulled over and there was transmission fluid everywhere. Rang mechanic who said the transmission must be over filled.


So he arranged tow truck to pick it up, still waiting for what the cause was. It is still using same amount of water.


So it seems the 1200 in mechanic bill wasn't a total a waste...........


So far car 4, me O

outbackjackinoz

Update:


Car is still at mechanics, he doesn't know what is wrong with it. He has done the sniff test, he has pressure tested it etc etc. All are negative.


He did notice the electric fan doesn't come on with out using the A/C, my investigation tell me it wont come on unless it gets to around 105 degrees C


It works fine with a/c on.


Mech said fan not on might be the cause.


Anyone have any clues?


Could it be the Aux coolant pump not working at the moment.


It seems to use water after you shut it down?????


And still uses all coolant in recovery bottle after about 50 kms at 100 kms hr...

Maj. Dundee

If there are no exterior coolant leaks, you are burning it.

outbackjackinoz

Not sure what you mean.


I can see coolant on the rocker cover. so its coming out of the cap. Recovery bottle and cap are new.


Does the coolant auxiliary pump have anything to do with it? Its not working at the moment. The brushes are worn down

outbackjackinoz

Mechanic is away for a week. So nothing to update.



It has him totally stumped. I have suggested we take head off, but he insist the engine is fine. He said if it was CHG or cracked head, there would be other symptom's and that it just runs way too good for it to be them.


So not sure what is on the cards next. A real doozy

Maj. Dundee

I don't want to re-read all of your posts, but where did you ever say that coolant was coming out of the cap.

What cap are you referring to?

outbackjackinoz

Hi MD,


I don't think I have mentioned it before, because I never noticed it. At the moment the mechanic has got the plastic engine cover off.
When I took it for a drive, I noticed then that the coolant was on top of the engine. So it seems that the cap is leaking coolant, although it is on tight. It appears not be to leaking whilst engine is running, still not sure. He had it idling for a few hours and it didn't seem to come out, but I did when it was shut down.


Cap and Recovery bottle are both new.

DrX

Is any of this adding up for you? How about telling us where you got this new recovery tank? Do you still have the old cap?

outbackjackinoz

No it doesn't add up, expect the money I am shelling out.

Recovery tank and Cap was brought by Merc Spares place in Canberra.They where both brand new. Cap is genuine, Recovery tank is aftermarket.




It has every mechanic who has checked it out stumped so far.

DrX

I understand you've had 2 strokes, but last time you said the cap was aftermarket. You should put the original cap back on, if you haven't discarded it.

Switching the hoses didn't fix the problem. Maybe you should switch them back, because they're probably the wrong way around now. Or compare them with pics of other ML270 engine bays.

Coolant should be blue - if not, get some G48-type coolant (Zerex or MB), then wrap the cap and the hose connections with paper towelling and tape. This will help you figure out where your leak is.

You can see coolant on the rocker cover, but you don't really know where it's coming from.

art_arev

Check your coolant lines with the pic

outbackjackinoz

Sorry.

I thought the cap was aftermarket, but the mechanic has told me its genuine.


The recovery bottle is aftermarket.


Currently it has green coolant in it, not sure what type. Mechanic has done it.


Hoses are in the correct position.


With the plastic engine cover off, I can see green coolant on the engine rocker cover, around same location as cap.


Will get the mechanic to change coolant to blue coolant. Will also see if he will do the paper towel job.


Thanks everyone for your help. It has been a real challenge. I have had the car over 6 months now I think and being able to use it about 3 or 4 weeks tops. I really want the car back on the road......

DrX

It's the wrong type. Use either G05 (old, yellow) or G48-type (new, blue) in your ML.

http://www.glysantin.de/en/products/g05.html
http://www.glysantin.de/en/products/g48.html

Green, pink and red coolants don't have the correct active ingredients to prevent corrosion of your engine block which ultimately leads to irreversible coolant leakage.

Maj. Dundee

Being that you are using the wrong coolant, there is a strong possibility the you have a blockage at this hose juncture. Remove it completely and check.