ML320VIC

Hey guys,

Just bought my first MB, an ml320 W163 - what a regretful decision.

Driving on the freeway tonight and suddenly my car starts losing power - definitely still on though. Put my foot down and car somewhat revs but no power to the wheels. Pull over on the shoulder and the car is shuddering badly - when I use any electricity, especially power windows, the car almost stalls.

Can't seem to turn it on for a few minutes either, but then it starts fine later.

What the hell is wrong with it?

Thanks

ML320VIC

Just got it home, it started fine and idles smooth (or what it previously idled like anyway, a bit apprehensive to even call that smooth) but it's definitely more sluggish than usual, it feels like I have no pedal power, but the revs are definitely responding to how hard I press the accelerater.

I cannot figure out what it could be?

art_arev

Firstly scanning the car for codes would be nice.
I would think of changing the 13 pin connector harness & do a tranny flush & tranny filter change.

ML320VIC

I'll get the codes read

A failing transmission connector doesn't really explain why the power windows are making my engine stall and why the idle is extremely rough until I turn off the car and wait 5 minutes

ripper1

Look at either the battery ,grounds, or alternator being marginal

art_arev

You will be surprised at what a failing 13 pin socket can do to your car......( failing 13 pin connector means the seals are gone & oil has access to the electric cables & shorting them). The car starts developing symptoms all over the place that don't make any sense....That is exactly when I would change the socket. Its inexpensive & 20 min DIY.
But again, have the codes read.....

ML320VIC

Read the codes, 9 in total, 2 premature. Secondary air injector and misfires all over?

Any ideas?

P0410
P0301
P0302
P0304
P0306
P0305
P0300
P0173 premature
P0300 premature

Maj. Dundee

Code P0173 signifies a rich or lean mixture in Bank #2, left side-driver's.

Misfires on cyl 4,5 & 6 are also on the left bank.

This clearly shows that there is a catalytic converter clogging on the left side.

Purchase an Exhaust Back pressure gauge, remove the upstream O2 sensor (G3/3) and insert the gauge in the O2 sensor hole.

Fully warm the engine and then observe the gauge at idle and see that it does not go above 1 psi. The raise the idle to 1,500 RPM's and it should not go above 1 psi. Then do the same at 2,500 RPM's.

https://mbworld.org/forums/6056271-post4.html

ML320VIC

If it goes above 1 psi I assume then it's clogged?

Does this explain why when I rev to over 3000 rpm, the engine suddenly starts shaking and going extremely sluggish until I turn off the car and restart (at which point it's fine again)?

I noticed a few people complaining of the exact same symptoms who seemed to have a clogged cat.

Maj. Dundee

If it goes above 1 psi I assume then it's clogged? Correct.

Does this explain why when I rev to over 3000 rpm, the engine suddenly starts shaking and going extremely sluggish until I turn off the car and restart (at which point it's fine again)? Correct.

I noticed a few people complaining of the exact same symptoms who seemed to have a clogged cat. You are not alone.