100,000 mile maintenance
12-07-2017, 10:33 PM
#1
100,000 mile maintenance
My 1999 ML320 has 98,500 miles on it.. I have owned it since 2002 and bought it with 18,000 miles. I know it will be due for an A Service soon and ask if there is anything additional that needs to be addressed at this mileage. It has had all the A & B services done in schedule by a MB dealer except the last 2 services were done by a shop that specializes in MB’s. I believe it imust be soon time to change the spark plugs and wires as they are the original parts. I do work on the vehicle myself but was warned about changing the plugs myself as they can easily break. Does anybody have any experience with this or recommendations? Also, the last time the car was serviced at the MB dealer, I was told the motor mounts have compressed. The shop I took it said nothing about this. Any opinions on this? Is there anything else at this mileage that needs to be addressed besides the normal items in the A Service? The transmision fluid has been changed and the power steering pump and fluid was recently changed. Your feedback is appreciated.
12-31-2017, 04:56 AM
#2
Super Member
At 100k miles, I would check the following and replace as needed.
1. Belt if it wasn't change when the power steering was changed. Check for cracking
2. I wouldn't worry about the spark plugs or wires unless it goes bad. I have had 5 ML's and never had a problem with any of them all the way up to 160k miles.
3. I would check motor mounts and exhaust mounts. Never heard of compressed mounts before, There are either broke or not... Either way, if the car idles smoothly, wouldn't worry about it. Change if there is vibration
4. Brake fluid bleed and possibly replaced. After 19 year I expect them to be a bit spongy by now if you never done anything and you probably just hadn't noticed the change over the years.
Things I would like to do at 100k miles but not needed unless there is a problem.
1. 19 year old shocks? I would replace at least the front two. There like $150 for the pair and easy to change
2. Crankshaft position sensor (had this fail and know people this has failed, just playing it safe. Cheap part , cant remember if it was pain or not to replace
3. Change engine coolant
4. Replace r13a ac refrigerant. Should blow a bit colder especially if its original and summer is around the corner
5. I would personally inspect the interior cabin filter (one screw under passenger foot well). I have paid for service and have seen this overlooked many of times
Cant really think of anything else. Hopefully it brings your quite a few more years of enjoyment. Still cant beleive you have a 99 with only 98,500 miles on it. My first ML was a 99 and brand new and in three and a half years I but over 130k miles on it
1. Belt if it wasn't change when the power steering was changed. Check for cracking
2. I wouldn't worry about the spark plugs or wires unless it goes bad. I have had 5 ML's and never had a problem with any of them all the way up to 160k miles.
3. I would check motor mounts and exhaust mounts. Never heard of compressed mounts before, There are either broke or not... Either way, if the car idles smoothly, wouldn't worry about it. Change if there is vibration
4. Brake fluid bleed and possibly replaced. After 19 year I expect them to be a bit spongy by now if you never done anything and you probably just hadn't noticed the change over the years.
Things I would like to do at 100k miles but not needed unless there is a problem.
1. 19 year old shocks? I would replace at least the front two. There like $150 for the pair and easy to change
2. Crankshaft position sensor (had this fail and know people this has failed, just playing it safe. Cheap part , cant remember if it was pain or not to replace
3. Change engine coolant
4. Replace r13a ac refrigerant. Should blow a bit colder especially if its original and summer is around the corner
5. I would personally inspect the interior cabin filter (one screw under passenger foot well). I have paid for service and have seen this overlooked many of times
Cant really think of anything else. Hopefully it brings your quite a few more years of enjoyment. Still cant beleive you have a 99 with only 98,500 miles on it. My first ML was a 99 and brand new and in three and a half years I but over 130k miles on it
01-04-2018, 12:08 PM
#3
ML320 100k Maintenance
Many thanks for the reply. I have changed the belt, position sensor and a lot of the brake fluid when I changed the pads and discs. It does idle a little rough and it was recommended by a local mechanic to change the plugs at 100K. This cost $400+ without the wires. I don’t want the vibration to ruin the catalytic converter. My understanding it any vibration from the motor mount would be more at higher speeds. This is what the MB dealer said.
I need to change the idler pulley and will inspect the belt then. It was change when the belt tensioner broke some years ago. The position sensor was changed as it wouldn’t start again after the engine got to running temperature. I did have a new A/C compressor installed a few years ago. It was noisy and expensive!!! I believe they changed the Freon to R134a.
Thanks info on the cabin filter and shocks. I will have the coolant changed. In about 2,000 miles it is due for a B service. It was also recommended that the lubricant in the differentials be changed. Any suggestion on this?
I always tell myself to buy something new but then I ask myself why. We don’t put many miles on a vehicle and the ML still looks good. I did have the bumpers repainted a few years ago. As this is the case, I don’t mind putting a few $ into the car especially with the cost of new cars regardless of the brand.
Thanks agin.
I need to change the idler pulley and will inspect the belt then. It was change when the belt tensioner broke some years ago. The position sensor was changed as it wouldn’t start again after the engine got to running temperature. I did have a new A/C compressor installed a few years ago. It was noisy and expensive!!! I believe they changed the Freon to R134a.
Thanks info on the cabin filter and shocks. I will have the coolant changed. In about 2,000 miles it is due for a B service. It was also recommended that the lubricant in the differentials be changed. Any suggestion on this?
I always tell myself to buy something new but then I ask myself why. We don’t put many miles on a vehicle and the ML still looks good. I did have the bumpers repainted a few years ago. As this is the case, I don’t mind putting a few $ into the car especially with the cost of new cars regardless of the brand.
Thanks agin.
01-04-2018, 08:01 PM
#4
Super Member
Sounds like you ML has a good home. Just to help answer a few more questions
Differential Fluid should be changed every 50,000 miles. I am embarrassed to say I do it every 100,000 miles. This is both on ML's and range rovers. If its never been done then now is a extremely good time to do it.
I am not saying I am 100% right here but I have had 36 cars in my life time and 5 of those have been ML's. I have bought them brand new off the showroom floor and used ones that have had some good and bad history. By the time I sold any of them they were all perfect. With that said, if you dont have a check engine light on then the vibration is not caused by a spark plug or wires. Trust me, that system will throw a code real quick. Plus, all my ML's have made it to 160k+ plus miles and I never changed a single wire or plug on any of them and they have all been butter smooth. If you have a vibration issue its one of three things.
motor mounts
transmisson mounts
exhaust mounts
Or something else thats not electrical......
Also, you MB dealer is dead wrong. My S500 engine mounts and transmission mounts where completely shot. I mean shot like push the gas and watch the engine hit the hood bad.on the highway and driving it was perfect. It was only while standing still that I noticed the vibration issues while in drive. When you press the gas, it puts force against your transmission and pretty much holds it from vibration. Your dealer got it backwards.
Here is a easy check.Start the car, put your foot on the brake, put the car in drive. You should feel vibration. Shift the car into neutral. If it goes away or lessons, engine mounts are shot.
I always tell people, if you like your car, dont worry about putting money into it. Just make sure your getting your money's worth. I have a newer range rover still under warranty, that goes to the dealer for now. But my CLS and ML, with both now over 100k miles, visits a great guy named Rob in Dallas that takes care of everything for 1/4 the price and we do what is needed when its needed. Most stuff I do but anything that requires engine lifting, going under the car, or major components removing, he does. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Differential Fluid should be changed every 50,000 miles. I am embarrassed to say I do it every 100,000 miles. This is both on ML's and range rovers. If its never been done then now is a extremely good time to do it.
I am not saying I am 100% right here but I have had 36 cars in my life time and 5 of those have been ML's. I have bought them brand new off the showroom floor and used ones that have had some good and bad history. By the time I sold any of them they were all perfect. With that said, if you dont have a check engine light on then the vibration is not caused by a spark plug or wires. Trust me, that system will throw a code real quick. Plus, all my ML's have made it to 160k+ plus miles and I never changed a single wire or plug on any of them and they have all been butter smooth. If you have a vibration issue its one of three things.
motor mounts
transmisson mounts
exhaust mounts
Or something else thats not electrical......
Also, you MB dealer is dead wrong. My S500 engine mounts and transmission mounts where completely shot. I mean shot like push the gas and watch the engine hit the hood bad.on the highway and driving it was perfect. It was only while standing still that I noticed the vibration issues while in drive. When you press the gas, it puts force against your transmission and pretty much holds it from vibration. Your dealer got it backwards.
Here is a easy check.Start the car, put your foot on the brake, put the car in drive. You should feel vibration. Shift the car into neutral. If it goes away or lessons, engine mounts are shot.
I always tell people, if you like your car, dont worry about putting money into it. Just make sure your getting your money's worth. I have a newer range rover still under warranty, that goes to the dealer for now. But my CLS and ML, with both now over 100k miles, visits a great guy named Rob in Dallas that takes care of everything for 1/4 the price and we do what is needed when its needed. Most stuff I do but anything that requires engine lifting, going under the car, or major components removing, he does. Let me know if you have any other questions.
