klischer

Hi, this will be my first forum, so please bare with me. Started with a hot AZ day as I stopped at the grocery store and left the vehicle running with AC on for about 15 mins (had my dog in the car). AC worked all the way home. Next day...nothing. Here is my progress:
-I first checked relay k26. Hooked up to 12v and heard it click. Also checked for ohms with multi-meter. Proceeded to check fuse F5 on passenger side of vehicle, which was good and had 11.8v.

-Blower motor is not running. I hooked up jumper wires from battery to the fan and it DID turn on. So I eliminated the blower motor as the issue.

-Voltage going into blower resistor (tested at plug) Red & Grey wires 12.2v. White wire 10.5v. Brown wire 12.2v (ran a jumper wire from + on battery). Voltage going to blower fan from resistor is 6.3v, which does change while I move the dial from 1 to 5. I thought this was the problem so I bought a new blower motor resistor. I was sent the wrong one or ordered the wrong one.

-Took apart dash to access ACC unit. I took the back cover off off the unit and the board was in good condition with no burns. I put the unit back together and plugged all connectors back in and tested voltage at the Pink(1) and Brown(4) wires 12.3v. Bottom White wire also at 12.3v.

-I then checked to see if the auxiliary recirculating pump was working and I could NOT feel it vibrate or working. I tested for voltage at the connector going into the recirculating pump at 12.4v. I disconnected the pump and ordered a used pump on ebay. Once it arrived I connected it, put my hand on while the engine was running and could not feel any vibrations. What are the chances both pumps are bad? Note: I did install the 1st pump 10,000 miles ago when i bought the vehicle because it was leaking. Both pumps are Bosch.

-At the same time I ordered the new(used) recirculating pump I also invested in the recommended, Autel Elite MD802 ALL systems ds scanner. I really like this vehicle and thought this would be a great tool to have. I'll be honest, I'm still trying to understand all the features on it.

One question I have, do you think I bought a bad (used) recirculating pump? Is there any other way to test if it is good? I know I should have just bought a brand new one now. Before I buy any more parts I thought I would reach out and get some much needed guidance and help. Any input would be appreciated! Thank you

CODES
B1 105 A9 AC Compressor
B1 108 M1 3 Heating water circulation pump /M2/2 (Module box blower motor)
B1 201 M2/6 Blended air flap positioning motor
B1 202 M2/22 Center vent flap positioning motor
B1 203 M2/15 Football flap positioning motor
B1 204 M2/8 Defroster flap positioning motor
B1 205 M2/5 Fresh and recirculating air flaps actuator
B1 206 M2/12 Rear shutoff flap positioning motor
B1 207 M2/12 Rear shutoff flap positioning motor
B1 208 A32n1 Blower Regulator
B1 205 M2/5 Fresh and recirculated air flap actuator
B1 206 M2/12 Rear shutoff flap positioning motor
B1 208 A32 n1 blower regulator

Maj. Dundee

Now that you have all the codes saved, erase them all. Start eng. and request A/C and then read codes again.

Did you check the BROWN wire at the pump to see if it has GROUND?

If the pump still does not work, remove the connector to the pump and pull it out of the rubber holder. Using a jumper wire, apply 12v to the pin were the WHITE wire was and then using a jumper wire, apply GROUND to the BROWN wire using the battery.

If the pump runs, immediately remove jumper wires. This will mean that your circuit board is damaged or there is no GROUND to the pump.

DO YOU UNDERSTAND EVERYTHING ABOVE?

klischer

Yes I understand, thank you! I erased all of the codes. Started the engine and ran the test again. Here are the new codes.

B1 108 M1 3 Heating water circulation pump /M2/2 (Module box blower motor)
B1 201 M2/6 Blended air flap positioning motor
B1 202 M2/22 Center vent flap positioning motor
B1 203 M2/15 Football flap positioning motor
B1 204 M2/8 Defroster flap positioning motor
B1 205 M2/5 Fresh and recirculating air flaps actuator
B1 206 M2/12 Rear shutoff flap positioning motor
B1 207 M2/12 Rear shutoff flap positioning motor
B1 208 A32n1 Blower Regulator

I checked the Brown wire for ground and got 12.1v.. I then hooked up jumper wires to the pump and it did NOT run. I also tried the older pump it also did NOT run. Now we are getting somewhere!! I have unplugged the pump.

Do you have a recommendation for which NEW pump to buy?

Maj. Dundee

The BROWN wire is not supposed to have voltage. You tested incorrectly.

You should be using a DVOM (Digital Volt-Ohm Meter) to test both voltage and ground.

klischer

You’re right I did not do the test correctly.
I now turned the vehicle on. Set the meter to Ohms. Put the black lead from the meter to the negative post of the battery and red lead to the brown wire. Reading was at 0.0. I then switched the leads (red wire to neg. battery post and black lead to brown wire) and received a reading from 60 to 70.

Maj. Dundee

You are not checking for Ohms. Read the instruction manual to check for DC voltage and ground by using Continuity Test.

SpenserM

I'd just get a pump from the local pick and pull. I got one from a w124 and just made an adapter from part of the w124 harness.

The hot water circulation pump shouldn't cause all these codes unless perhaps it was shorting something out. Climate control works fine on my 99 without it but it sounds like you have a newer model. Try it without it plugged in.

I'm betting you have a problem with a board, module, relay or fuse for all these guys. Again a trip to the local pick n pull would be beneficial here.