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Ok - all fuses checked out good. One more thing about this kick panel fuse box. It does not have a Relay K9 (Terminal 15) and no slots for the relay or no location for a Fuse F26 in this fuse box.
Ok - all fuses checked out good. One more thing about this kick panel fuse box. It does not have a Relay K9 (Terminal 15) and no slots for the relay or no location for a Fuse F26 in this fuse box.
Attached -both the cover and actual fuse box pics. The cover label has them listed and that's why I was surprised to see them not on the fuse
box itself.
Ok - that will take a while since I have to unbolt the passenger seat and move it up or out to get to the Teleaid connector under the seat. I tried to do it without getting the seat out f the way but didn't have too much luck. It may be a couple of hours and I will post back with pics.
Ok - that will take a while since I have to unbolt the passenger seat and move it up or out to get to the Teleaid connector under the seat. I tried to do it without getting the seat out f the way but didn't have too much luck. It may be a couple of hours and I will post back with pics.
Yup - unbolted the seat both front and back - needed E14 Torx ratchet. Tilted the seat all the way forward and was able to reach the connector for the Teleaid module which was facing the front side of the car so had to get the seat out of the way. For anybody else having to do this the connector has a metal clip which rotates but has to be pushed out from the edge. It was hard but using a flat bad screw driver I got it unclipped and then was able to take the connector out. I have attached some pictures.
Good news is that the 0.7mV draw on fuse 8 is gone. It's 0.00mV - made me very happy... however, from all the testing the battery had run down to 11.4 V so the car did not start and therefore I could not check the lights. I have it on the charger now and should be good in a couple of hours and I will turn it on, check the dash lights and report back. The only concern i have is that the connector has about 40 wires in it going to that Teleaid unit so I don't know what other parts of the emergency system will not work? I just want to make sure my air bags and ABS work...anyway will report out on the dash lights tonight. Thank you for your help and wish you a Merry Christmas. Seat unbolted and tilted up from the back to show the Teleaid unit. Installed Teleaid connector close up - the metal clip has to be pushed in and rotated to the left to unlock the connector from the unit. Connector unplugged from the unit Connector close up to show the pins
Ok battery is charged to 12.7V and drove it around the block once. The SRS light is on since I disconnected the Teleaid plug. Radio is fine sound is good; backup camera is fine..just need to know what else gets disabled as a result of disconnecting the teleaid unit - and can I get the Telead removed from the coding to help get rid of the SRS light?
Pictures included. SRS light is on... (and yes it's 60 degrees on Christmas eve in Maryland) Radio sound is good - no issues with disconnecting the Teleaid.
Hi I can order the Fiber Opter bypass - the question is where would I install it - if you see the pinouts of the connector I removed it doesn't look like the D2B Fiber optic connector - attached is another pic of the connector I removed. . I don't see a FO link on this connector - just the 2 antenna connectors and the regular wiring pins..
Hi Maj Dundee - the object on top of the module is the actual connector that I had to unplug from the module. I just placed it there to be able to take a picture of the pins. There is no separate D2B fiber optic connector that I found connected to this module - i don't know if the 2003-2005 MLs were different from the others since I don't have the mercedes service manuals for this car.. i'm jut showing what actually is installed on the car... can you by any chance get a pin-out of this connector and a wiring diagram that can help figure out how to fake this connector into thinking that we have the module still installed?
Update: I reinstalled the Teleaid connector and sure enough the 0.7mV draw on Fuse 8 came back. So conclusively confirmed that it is this module that is causing the drain. I removed the module out of the car completely and checked the car after two days - no drain at all and battery remained fine - car started fine, but SRS light on dashboard came on and stayed on. As a next step I decided to open the case of the Teleaid Module (see pic) thinking I could just cut some internal wiring pins to have t get power but not try to call out on the ecall line. To my surprise I saw a burnt capacitor on the board (see pic) and am thinking this could be the culprit causing the board to keep drawing power. I have ordered a replacement capacitor ($0.75) from Digi-Key and will remove and resolder the new one when I get it next week and report back to see if that fixed the issue. Teleaid module removed from car. These are programmed specific to the VIN so cannot be interchanged with other units as per the warning sticker. Module cover unscrewed - just need a Torx screwdriver and 4 screws easy to unscrew to expose the electronics and inside connector wiring. I noticed a burnt capacitor (Tantallum 4.7 MicroFarads 35V Kemet T494 series). Will replace and check to see if it solves the current draw problem.
12-24-2020, 12:16 PM
