USA spec 2002 ML320, 150k miles, new Mercedes battery in 2019.

went through machine gun lock scenario two years ago, fault was the passenger rear actuator, had no time to get to it, so left it in locked position and continued to use the truck. No one sits in the back anyway, so leaving the door locked was not a big deal. Had to disable the auto-lock at 10 mph.

All was good until today. went to fill up on fuel and even though the door was unlocked, the guy could not open the fuel door. Hit the central unlock a few times and he was able to get the door open. I come home and try to lock the car but the drivers door does not lock. Also, the front passenger and driver rear lock. to make the situation worse, the fuel door is not flush with the body, because the plastic peg/pin has already come down the lock position. Unlocking the car will not cause the peg to go back up.

1. I think I can go from the inside to pull the peg as per the instructions in the manual
2. Is there something else that has gone wrong that would caused the driver door to be in open position and fuel door in lock position? Should i go look at some fuse or relay?
3. the alarm does get activated b/c when I open the driver door, the alarm goes off, even though the door is not locked.
4. Is there any relation between the driver door and fuel door?


Running Diag pulled these codes:

3. AAM-All Activity Module---(05)

3.1 B1788-001
The Central Locking (CL/ZV) signal contact Right rear
door provides implausible values.- Fault during
unlocking
Stored

3.2 B1716
The ATA/EDW (Anti-Theft Alarm System) interior motion
protection/inclination sensor in the component 'N41
(Trip Computer (TRIP) control module)' is faulty.
Stored&Current

3.3 B1788-002 The Central Locking (CL/ZV) signal contact Right rear
door provides implausible values.- Fault during locking
Stored

3.4 B1783-002 The Central Locking (CL/ZV) signal contact Driver door
provides implausible values.- Fault during locking
Stored

3.5 B1858-002 Two-way radio signal :The programmed code is OK, but
the programmable code is not synchronized.
Stored


Thanks in advance for any thoughts. I'm continuing to search the forum.
e

 

I have machine gun locks right now. Only the trunk and LR door lock, but the alarm arms itself. I have no codes and I know this doesn't help you, but I want to sub anyway. Hopefully someone has a comprehensive answer.

 

Thanks.
I opened the fuel filler from the inside and the actuator is broken. it locks but does not unlock. I've ordered a replacement - need to figure out how to replace it.

 

You need a scanner (Not a code reader) to find codes in the AAM.

 

Understand that the driver's door is the most opened door and after 19 yrs. it is due to fail.

 

Thanks, Major Dundee.

I went to order the fuel filler door actuator but confused about the part number. The one in my vehicle is white. But all the ones I find on the internet, based on searching for my vehicle, come up with part number A163-820-16-42, and are black and don't look anything like the one in my truck. The one in my truck is made by hella, based on finding used ones on ebay, but the new ones from MB dealers have the above part number and are black and have a white bellow. So am not sure which one to order. I had a virtual machine with MB WIS and parts info but it does not work anymore. Perhaps the new one that is black, made by VDO, is an upgraded replacement?

Would you be able to help me out on the part number and WIS (I'm assuming I have to remove the entire C panel). My VIN is 4JGAB54E92A345781.

Will have to order both driver and Pass-Rear door actuators also.

Thanks in advance.

Thanks.

 

Thanks for the PDF on the relays and circling K23 and K24. It could also be my K24 is bad since this connects both the driver door lock and the filler door. I can try replacing this first or test it while swapping to see if that resolves the problem.

Thanks, again.

 

Let's deal with one problem at a time. Here are the part numbers for the driver's door and the right rear door. I suggest that you purchase & replace the driver's door first. Do not purchase the right rear until seeing how the driver's door installation went.

Instillation will follow later.

 

Here are the R&I PDFs for the drivers door with photos..

 

Hi Maj. Dundee,

I thank you for all the info you provided, part numbers, guides, etc., and your recommendations. If I could respectfully, disagree, I was thinking of working on the rear door first (the lock has been broken for a year now) and use that as a test/experiment before attempting the driver door. Hardly anyone sits in the back, so if I break something, I can take my time to fix it. I would need the driver door operational so that i can still drive the truck. And it is easier since I won't have to mess with the tumbler. Your thoughts please? Thanks.

 

I previously stated that the front door lock controls the filler cap. If you want to ignore that, then it's your mistake.

Here are the procedures for the rear door.

 

Hi Maj. Dundee,

I must have misread what you said - based on the AAM, I thought that only thing they have in common is the relay, but not that the actual lock of the driver door. agreed, this is the most important one so that the front door can look like it is locked and the filler door can work as well. Ordered the front door actuator as you suggested.

Thanks,
Maneesh

 

OK, no problem.

 

Thank you!

Do you know where I can use/rent one?

.

 

convicted - this is what I use:
Autel AP200


you can download the software for one brand (IE: Mercedes) with lifetime updates. you can use it on multiple Benzes, just not other brands.

It is on the cheaper side and reads the AAM codes as I've listed above.

 

Awesome!

Thank you!

 

Maj Dundee,

Any thoughts on replacing the rivets for the window rail? I don't have a rivet gun, nor the muscle to use one. :-)

thanks.

 

Sorry I missed your post.

 

There's no two words about it, you must drill out the rivets and then need a two handed rivet gun to replace them.

Check in your area for company that rent tools.