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I will look for more info. The H-1 is the only vehicle I know of right now with factory portals for independent suspensions. You could always throw Unimog axles under it on coil-overs
'99ML430, '02ML500, '88 XJS, '00 CLK 430, 2 steam turbine generators, & 2 GE 7FA.01 gas turbines
I got lots of hours on a Farmall, - AC, Massy, Deer, Corn Binder, Steiger, Terex, Cat, Ag-Gator-- PPFfffff I don't miss that shiI.
I see Bilstien is making a blader type "load leveling" shock that might be the way to go, If I can pry the spec/geometry info out of r&ds ***! Working around the *******ized rear shocks is the hard part. I think some blue 75# rate adjustable coil overs for the rears and 100s for the front will look just about the coolest. They can be had for MUCH less than the Gwag springs. They won't fit without a lot of work, and all the excess cabbage from the spinich folder. We'll see.
Thanks for the link!
I have an 02 ML500, front torsion bar has been reindexed and custom spacers installed on top of the rear shocks. Sits about 6" higher than stock, still rides and handles like a champ. Good over all off road but not being able to shut down ESP entirely can be a pain in sticky situations.
I know this is an old thread but I just bought some 255/75/17 bfg mud terrains for my 2003 ml320. Found them for $500 forall 4, brand new, never installed. Would u pass up that deal? Anyway, some say that is too big, some say it works fine. Anybody have any input? And please, nothing from anybody who doesn't have or has no experience with this. I'm not asking for theoretical answers, or ones from a certified know it all. Just straight up, real answer from real owners and offroaders. Thank you.
Hi. This is not a popular thing to do to an ML, but fact is, there have been lift kits made for this truck, and it DOES look better with bigger tires. I have installed 275 65 r17 on my truck, and it's been over a year. Drives great, much better on rough terrain, poor roads and in snow. I don't think you will be able to drive the truck with 255 75 17 tires, but it's a matter of trial and error. Anything about 31" or a tad bigger will work; anything bigger than that and you'll start scraping the plastic in your wheel wells and so forth. I am now installing 285 50 r20s on my ML (w163) for the summer. Winter time I'll go back to 275 65 r17s; hell I might get some 16" wheels and put some 31" donuts on that.
P.S.
One thing that sucks about the ML (w163) is that it does not have any locking diffs; the electronic ABS-induced stuff is useless. I got stuck in 6 inches of wet snow and could not get out. So now I know this truck's true limits and am looking for a way to install at least rear locking diff at least. I have heard there was a limited edition off-road package that included rear and central locking, but I have not yet seen one on eBay or anywhere else, for that matter.
Hope this will help.
So, I am getting tired of people saying the ML sucks and has no off-road capabilities. Here is my facts, not opinions. The ML will go anywhere a jeep of similar clearence, and even will follow taller jeeps. I've taken my ML to a few jeep outings and on numerous occasions I had the keepers tell me how they have just been showed up by a Mercedes. At one spot, 3 jeeps took between 6 and 9 minutes each to clear an obstacle, the ml only 45 seconds, I was third of four so I had no placement advantage. I even did a hill down and up where a group of big jeeps on 35's and bigger hesitated and conquered, then the ML conquered, but none of the jeeps with 33's and 3" lifts would go, very embarrassing to jeeps. I run 255/75/17 bfg mud terrain km everyday with no esp or bas problems, I run an open filter with no problems, I have rear spacers and re-indexed torsion bars for 3" of lift. I have a measurement of 37.5" at the fender above top of each tire. If people are getting stuck in snow or a little bit of mud, believe me, its not the ML! Someone has to control the machine. You tube "ML320 Rausch Creek" and you will see some of its capabilities. It is so capable, I have added a fuel tank plate and its at the shop now getting rock sliders. I will roll my fenders to fit 35's. I've cut my bumpers and my rockers for added clearence. Buy a ford or jeep? Ha, and be like everyone else? No thanks, I have vision.
I appreciate the w163 off-road enthusiasm. I got stuck in wet snow, traction control was on and off, Low range was engaged, but the ML does not have locking diffs; I've heard of an off-road package that did have them (rear and center), but I've never seen one. The simulated differential lock via ABS braking is not that effective. Hence my question, is it possible to install differetial lock, at least on the rear?
The ML is not really a cross-over, but not a full-fledge SUV; unlike the X5 and what-not, the ML has a solid frame, and the suspension is pretty tough and can take some abuse. Bigger off-road tires can be installed, particularly when using the suspension lift kit.
P.S.
Does the suspension lift affect highway handling? Is cornering ability seriously jeopardesed?
I was told that with that much lift there would be axle clearance issues. Have you done anything special to lift yours that much aside from spacers and torsion bar adjustments?
Actually I haven't touch the torsion bars (yet)... changed the springs, shock absorbers, and fit the spacers under the back springs (made in a lathe) to raise the height. The size of the rims and the tires help a lot to gain height.
Juliosalgado posted a fine vehicle, the lifted ML430. Would you mind sharing some mechanical secret for those of us that has similar interest in lifting the ML? Thank you
I have everything together for my lift finally. I will be installing them this weekend or next. then shooting for 35" tires with my tax money. I'll take pics and post them.
I ran 35" tyres on mine. With a lift kit,
Done over 15000 miles running mega torque from the engine. (was 370nm now 730nm) with no issues.
It's been abused off road with no issues
Andy
Finally did my lift and tires. Toyo Open Country 34X11.5X17 on stock wheels. 1" spacer in the rear, re-indexed torsion keys. Has 16" from the subframe to the ground.
Finally did my lift and tires. Toyo Open Country 34X11.5X17 on stock wheels. 1" spacer in the rear, re-indexed torsion keys. Has 16" from the subframe to the ground.
Justin,
Please tell me, in detail, how you did this. I installed bull bars with KC lights attached. I will install a light bar on the roof as well. But I need to lift the truck to finish the look.
It's a long job. If I did it over again, I would have gone a little taller, and ran 35" tires. Also a good idea to check the condition of all your control arms, and read springs first. I do also really want to find front shocks that are a good bit longer.
I started the job in the rear and had 1 cracked coil spring, so next came buying rear quick struts. My front upper control arms were beat as were the front shocks, so I ordered all that. Then I bought the front torsion bar bushings, and had a friend machine 1" thick spacers or the rear struts. Went over to Fastenal and got harware 1" longer to mount the rear struts.
Installation in the rear is more work than a usual strut job becuase you have to pull the axle out of the spindle to get enough swing to fit the strut in with the spacer. Also I completely removed the spare tire and tire carrier to make the access that much easier for the top plate. I won't need a factory size spare anymore anyway. The rest of the rear is pretty straightforward as far as re-assembly goes.
The front was a bear to do. Lots of heat was needed to get the torsion keys off the bars. I moved the 3 splines, but I would have done much more if done again, maybe even just turn them 1 notch in the control arm end. Either way it requires you to pop upper ball joint, axle nut, and caliper off to swing the front control arms down enough to get the bolts back in the torsion keys. Then it went back together and i tossed the wheels on and dropped it off for alignment.
The tires clear in the front, but rub a bit in the rear on the inner wheel well. Not much, but enough that I ordered spacers which are going on tomorrow.
It's a long job. If I did it over again, I would have gone a little taller, and ran 35" tires. Also a good idea to check the condition of all your control arms, and read springs first. I do also really want to find front shocks that are a good bit longer.
I started the job in the rear and had 1 cracked coil spring, so next came buying rear quick struts. My front upper control arms were beat as were the front shocks, so I ordered all that. Then I bought the front torsion bar bushings, and had a friend machine 1" thick spacers or the rear struts. Went over to Fastenal and got harware 1" longer to mount the rear struts.
Installation in the rear is more work than a usual strut job becuase you have to pull the axle out of the spindle to get enough swing to fit the strut in with the spacer. Also I completely removed the spare tire and tire carrier to make the access that much easier for the top plate. I won't need a factory size spare anymore anyway. The rest of the rear is pretty straightforward as far as re-assembly goes.
The front was a bear to do. Lots of heat was needed to get the torsion keys off the bars. I moved the 3 splines, but I would have done much more if done again, maybe even just turn them 1 notch in the control arm end. Either way it requires you to pop upper ball joint, axle nut, and caliper off to swing the front control arms down enough to get the bolts back in the torsion keys. Then it went back together and i tossed the wheels on and dropped it off for alignment.
The tires clear in the front, but rub a bit in the rear on the inner wheel well. Not much, but enough that I ordered spacers which are going on tomorrow.
I replaced the front lower ball joints, upper control arms, shocks (Bilstein HD), and tie rods. The rear is fine so I didn't touch it. I'm familiar with working on cars.
My only experience with torsion bars is I removed the plate to make sure the plastic brackets were ok. I will study your post and send questions.
Kurts, Justin, Idotm, Thanks to all of you for contributing to this lifting of the ML W163 series. Yes, the Torsion indexing works. I've replaced the Torsion Bushings on driver and passenger sides, indexed the Torsion to about 3mm initially it was at 3.8 mm with the factory 17" wheels and 275/55R17 tire. Now that the Torsion indexed to 3mm, it raised the vehicle by 3" front and back and put new tires BF Goodrich KO2 275/70/R17 without any rubbing issues. Works and looks great.
Torsion indexed, no rear spacer with BFG KO2 LT275/70R17
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ML430
