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@njsarn So on my ML I have 33 inches from ground to top of fender clearance on the back, and 32.5 on the front. If I adjust my torsion bars they will only change the front correct. not the rear. I dont want to be higher on the front I just want an inch or 2 more for the same tires you have.
@njsarn So on my ML I have 33 inches from ground to top of fender clearance on the back, and 32.5 on the front. If I adjust my torsion bars they will only change the front correct. not the rear. I dont want to be higher on the front I just want an inch or 2 more for the same tires you have.
Although MLs are designated as W163, there are differences between ML430 and the ML320 wheels so you will need to experiment with what you have. For example, 2001 the ML320 has 16" wheel whereas the ML430 has 17" wheels. Then there are other differences in designated factory tires: see the Forum thread on ML320 and ML430 > https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...-vs-ml430.html
Hi
Can you tell me what is maximum height on stock diffs that ml320 2000 use ... I see some one go for 33 , other for 34 but arent the gears too long for such tires
This is now May 2nd, 2017. It has been 6 months after the new KO2 tires 275/70R17 were put on. Besides the joy, good looks and better off road performance, there are a few things note worthy of mentioning.
1. The odometer is off by about 11%. Meaning driving at 70 mph is really 77.7 = 78 mph if you drive at 80 mph = 89 mph. Recall that above 80 mph the COPs can impound your SUV.
2. When you fill up the gas and figure your MPG you also need to multiply by 1.11. So the 250 miles is really 277.5 miles driven.
3. Fuel consumption also increased by about 5%. In town used to be 18 MPG now ~17 MPG.
4. The brakes and the rotor appear to be wearing faster. So measure the rotor thickness against spec. stamped on the rotor itself and be prepared for a rotor change.
Finally started my project. Front torsion bars re-indexed. I have 15 inches of clearance under the front subframe with 285/70/17 (32.8" high) KO2 tires. I moved the splines 2 notches and replaced the bushings. You can tell from the pictures that the rear needs a lift. I just assembled the struts using all new components including Bilstein HD shocks and Bilstein springs and 20mm spacers. Can't wait to put them on.
Finally started my project. Front torsion bars re-indexed. I have 15 inches of clearance under the front subframe with 285/70/17 (32.8" high) KO2 tires. I moved the splines 2 notches and replaced the bushings. You can tell from the pictures that the rear needs a lift. I just assembled the struts using all new components including Bilstein HD shocks and Bilstein springs and 20mm spacers. Can't wait to put them on.
Looks great. Postup pics after the install. Would love to see it.
Looks great. Postup pics after the install. Would love to see it.
Done with the suspension and brakes. Put ML55 brakes and spindles. It rides very well. KO2 tires are really quiet so far. The left rear is a little lower than the rest of the corners. I can’t tell why. All the parts were replaced identically.
I am waiting for the steel bumpers and roof rack to be built. That’s the next project.
personally I don't think the ML or the X5 or the RX was ever meant to go off road. I think they were just meant to be a stylish mini van. I really don't know anyone who takes their utes off road. I do know people who take their landrover disco's and defenders off roading.
this is probably why you don't see these trucks lifted... also if someone wants to go off roading, i don't think the ML or the RX are going to be their first thoughts
my bad if i offended any of the hardcore ML fans..this is just my 2 cents.
I owe one and it’s very fun, just doesn’t say the right speed by like 5 mph
I owe one and it’s very fun, just doesn’t say the right speed by like 5 mph
James, This ML is lifted with cut and welded sub frame extensions correct? I’m a MB dealer tech and think I have seen this truck in person. And have been looking for it ever since because I want to do the same style lift. Dallas area truck?
My alignment shop is having difficulty aligning the ML. It sits on 33 inch wheels with reindexed torsion bars and spacer plates on the rear. I have about 14 inches of clearance under the subframes. Rear control arms and front tie rods replaced. All four lower ball joints replaced..The car drives well but for some reason, the tech is telling me the arms are moving on the right side. He says alignment is holding on the left but the right side keeps shifting. He will set the toe at 0.1 and after driving it it shows 0.55. Same with the camber/caster settings. He says he is tightening the nuts and somehow things are shifting still. Make any sense? Anyone familiar with this behavior? Should I get new hardware from the dealer for the control arms?
Done with the suspension and brakes. Put ML55 brakes and spindles. It rides very well. KO2 tires are really quiet so far. The left rear is a little lower than the rest of the corners. I can’t tell why. All the parts were replaced identically.
I am waiting for the steel bumpers and roof rack to be built. That’s the next project.
Very nice. Can't wait to see the bumpers and roof rack. Going for a similar Overland concept.
Quarantine was driving me crazy so I lifted my car and installed new tires. Thank you everyone for sharing photos!
Wheels: Mercedes AMG, 18x9, MPN 1634011802
Tires: Falken Wildpeak AT3W 275/65R18 much better handling and quieter than KO2. No rubbing.
Height from the floor to the inside of the fender well measurement:
* Front:35 8/7” from ground with OEM MB shock and maximum torsion cranking. Current setup is too soft and not responsive. Considering to upgrade with the setup from gkrumian's Bilstein 5165s.
* Rear: 33 3/4” from ground with OEM MB shock. Rear are too low and need to install 20mm spacer and remove spare wheel carrier. Considering to upgrade MB springs with King KMRR-91SP springs.
OEM MB motor mounts, gearbox mount, control arms, lower ball joints, tie rods are 140,000 miles and time to replace everything.
Too shiny. I would prefer a little more matte finish. Front 33 8/7" Front 33 8/7" Rear 33 3/4" Rear 33 3/4"
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Updated 12/24/2020
* Front: 35" from ground with new OEM MB shock and torsion bar index 1 notch. Better handling compare with maxing out torsion bar index. Slight rubbing lower rear inner fender when steering from full left lock to full right lock or three-point turn. No issues during normal driving.
* Rear: 35” from ground with new OEM MB shock with 20mm spacer. King KMRR-91SP springs are out of stock until Feb 2021. I hear slight rubbing top inner plastic fender when running over the potholes on freeway. No rubbing during normal driving over speed bump. Front and rear at 35" off the ground. Pre lifted car alignment Post lifted car alignment
Last edited by sfbay55555; Dec 24, 2020 at 03:29 PM.
Reason: 20mm Rear Strut Spacers to level with front torsion bar index
One reason why the suspension may not be reacting is that turning the torsion bar adjustment bolt all the way in to lift the car up is not the proper way of lifting it. You really need to re-index the torsion bars by removing them and moving the key about 2 or 3 spline notches. The adjustment bolt is to do minor adjustments. Cranking it all the way kills travel.
My project ML is almost ready. Another week or so to have the steel bumpers, winch, rooftop tent, awning and other goodies all installed. Since parts are not readily available for this car, I've enjoyed the process even more because it's made me really familiar with the car - something that's invaluable when something happens out in the middle of nowhere. I hope more people will do the same.
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