M-Class (W164) Produced 2006-2011: ML280CDI, ML320CDI, ML420CDI, ML350, ML500, ML550

Door Lock Actuator Replacement

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Old 05-13-2017, 07:09 PM
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It's stuck in that I've removed the screw but it won't retract from the door? In the video it pulls out easily?

someone suggested trying to pull the handle and then try pushing the door lock towards the front of the car (where the handle was) to see if that frees it??

Very weird considering how easy it looks in the video? Otherwise everything else has been exactly the same.
Old 05-13-2017, 07:19 PM
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Being stuck, I was referring to your photo where you said "this is where it is stuck".
Old 05-14-2017, 02:12 AM
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I fixed my rear door lock actuator a couple years ago. I removed it and had to cut open the actuator casing to gain access if my memory is correct. The infamous spring was not broken. I WD40'd everything and it was fixed. Still works perfect today.
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Being stuck, I was referring to your photo where you said "this is where it is stuck".
Sorry my bad. I mean this part of the lock is obviously still stuck inside the recess. The picture isn't great and I can't see if there are any other catches that need to be freed that might be the culprit?

Originally Posted by Kennyr
I fixed my rear door lock actuator a couple years ago. I removed it and had to cut open the actuator casing to gain access if my memory is correct. The infamous spring was not broken. I WD40'd everything and it was fixed. Still works perfect today.
I bought the car from a repossession company and thie drivers door lock was electrically disconnected. I've been trying to remove all associated parts to see what's what and what might need to be replaced. The spring is missing from the actuator as is the metal rod that indicates whether the door is open or closed. Clearly someone has already been messing around but I won't know the damage until I can remove everything. For example the black plastic casing that attaches to the back of the handle is now the only thing else that needs to come away and half of it is already in the back of the boot. The actuator assembly was not attached to the inner door panel with the three black plastic lugs so the inner panel is now off the car.

I'm expecting I'll need a new actuator from a breakers which won't break the bank but I'll need the door handle and lock hence why I'm keen not to damage it.

I have been advised on another forum to try pulling the handle up and then pushing the lock towards the front of the car where the handle was. Will try this later today.

Thanks for all the quick replies, this forum seems very active!
Old 05-14-2017, 04:48 AM
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Please UPDATE YOUR PROFILE in USER CP to include the year of your ML.
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:49 AM
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Please post your entire vin#.

Why do you need the key door lock and handle?

Last edited by Maj. Dundee; 05-14-2017 at 05:57 AM.
Old 05-14-2017, 05:49 AM
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Old 05-14-2017, 06:10 AM
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Why do you need the key door lock and handle?
Old 05-14-2017, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Why do you need the key door lock and handle?
I won't if I can remove it without damaging it!

However, I fear the only way this is going to come out is with force

I know the previous owner had been tinkering with the lock and for all I know he may have glued the thing in?
Old 05-14-2017, 06:58 AM
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Here is the problem you have. Obtaining a lock/actuator (100) from a wrecker must include the horizontal and vertical rods. If it doesn't, you cannot buy them separately from M/B as they are only included in the door lock/actuator kit.

The outside key lock (290) is called a guide and is a Theft Relevant Part, meaning that you must personally appear at a M/B dealer with license, registration and title to the veh. to order such part.

Below is the Data Card for your truck with every option code and feature.
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:38 PM
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SOLVED

Eureka!

It turns out there's a lock in addition to the 20tx bolt. Thank you to Hercules post on Mercedes-Benz Owners forum.








Once the lock is pulled down the cylinder can be withdrawn. No idea why this isn't mentioned in any of the videos or in Mercedes WIS notes? Is this unique to the drivers side??

Anyway, have been able to remove the handle and remaining parts of the actuator and will order a replacement as mine is quite damaged.
Old 05-15-2017, 06:13 AM
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Post the Hercules link.
Old 05-15-2017, 03:28 PM
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Here's the thread, solution at post 9:
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/in...1/#post-527506
Old 05-16-2017, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by -AJC-
Here's the thread, solution at post 9:
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/in...1/#post-527506
Thanks for posting the fine photos.
Old 05-22-2017, 03:34 AM
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Just wanted to add there appears to be no locking catch on the front passenger door lock cylinder. Here in the U.K. that's the front left door.

Not sure if this is common across the range or whether it is due to other extras, Keyless Go etc? Common sense would suggest the catch helps keep in place the heavier lock with key barrel.
Old 05-22-2017, 06:10 PM
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Turns out that my left rear door not unlocking fault was a bad front SAM next to the battery under the passenger seat. I got a used one off ebay for $200, bolted it in and everything works perfectly. No reprogramming needed.
Old 05-23-2017, 03:53 AM
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I've now changed the spring in the drivers door actuator and checked the passenger door actuator which was intact. The Keyless Go feature works on all doors but the front doors don't lock unless you manually push the lock down?

I'm guessing a problem with the front or rear SAM and have booked a session with STAR diagnostics to find out.

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