06 ML500 ABS, ESP TROUBLE AFTER WHEEL BEARING WAS CHANGED
05-03-2012, 08:43 PM
#1
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06 ML500 ABS, ESP TROUBLE AFTER WHEEL BEARING WAS CHANGED
I recently got the front driver side wheel bearing replaced and when I got back my car, all of these warning lights were on. ABS, EPS, Runflat indicator, running lights inoperative.
I got the ABS sensor changed, I also got a brand new brake sensor harness replaced. I don't have a clue what else it could be, please advise anyone
I got the ABS sensor changed, I also got a brand new brake sensor harness replaced. I don't have a clue what else it could be, please advise anyone
Last edited by Taharqa; 05-03-2012 at 09:12 PM.
05-11-2012, 10:03 AM
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X350d GLE500e 2017, ML350 BlueTec 2012(sold), A200 2013, ML350CDI 2009(sold), Aston Martin DB7 2003
Not sure if this is relevant, but if it is a standard looking double row bearing, the ABS may sense from magnets built into the seal on one side of the bearing. If the bearing was installed in reverse - then there will be no pick up.
This problem has occurred before in Hondas and Jaguars.
In Jags, we also found the Mondeo bearing was the same size but without any magnets - so no ABS worked.
If the bearing is assymetrical, or a hub unit, kindly disregard this suggestion.
This problem has occurred before in Hondas and Jaguars.
In Jags, we also found the Mondeo bearing was the same size but without any magnets - so no ABS worked.
If the bearing is assymetrical, or a hub unit, kindly disregard this suggestion.
05-11-2012, 08:42 PM
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You are absolutely correct, I finally took it to benz and they said the same thing, the bearing was put in wrong, along with the sensors were torn up.
I got it fixed today and it's working good.
I got it fixed today and it's working good.
10-31-2012, 01:08 PM
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2005 E55 Sedan (Peuter)
Not sure if this is relevant, but if it is a standard looking double row bearing, the ABS may sense from magnets built into the seal on one side of the bearing. If the bearing was installed in reverse - then there will be no pick up.
This problem has occurred before in Hondas and Jaguars.
In Jags, we also found the Mondeo bearing was the same size but without any magnets - so no ABS worked.
If the bearing is assymetrical, or a hub unit, kindly disregard this suggestion.
This problem has occurred before in Hondas and Jaguars.
In Jags, we also found the Mondeo bearing was the same size but without any magnets - so no ABS worked.
If the bearing is assymetrical, or a hub unit, kindly disregard this suggestion.
10-31-2012, 09:02 PM
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X350d GLE500e 2017, ML350 BlueTec 2012(sold), A200 2013, ML350CDI 2009(sold), Aston Martin DB7 2003
I am not personally familiar with that model!
However that set up has been used for decades (even prior to ABS) on E & S class. When they became ABS, those same bearings and seal worked without drama.
I presume MB worked the same as most brands non drive hubs, by using a segmanted anulus either pressed onto the outside of the hub, or set between the bearing ring and spindle shoulder. Another method is to attach the anulus to the hub seal, but I am unaware of that on MB seals.
However few 2005 cars would have come to us for parts prior to my retirement in 2008.
I suspect the coiled wire ring is the spring to hold seal lip tension on the shaft - common in seals for 100+ years.
My first thought is to follow the electrical connection to the hub checking for connectivity and clean contacts.
The ML is different being a drive axle with a unitized bearing.
However that set up has been used for decades (even prior to ABS) on E & S class. When they became ABS, those same bearings and seal worked without drama.
I presume MB worked the same as most brands non drive hubs, by using a segmanted anulus either pressed onto the outside of the hub, or set between the bearing ring and spindle shoulder. Another method is to attach the anulus to the hub seal, but I am unaware of that on MB seals.
However few 2005 cars would have come to us for parts prior to my retirement in 2008.
I suspect the coiled wire ring is the spring to hold seal lip tension on the shaft - common in seals for 100+ years.
My first thought is to follow the electrical connection to the hub checking for connectivity and clean contacts.
The ML is different being a drive axle with a unitized bearing.
11-01-2012, 05:32 PM
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2005 E55 Sedan (Peuter)
I am not personally familiar with that model!
However that set up has been used for decades (even prior to ABS) on E & S class. When they became ABS, those same bearings and seal worked without drama.
I presume MB worked the same as most brands non drive hubs, by using a segmanted anulus either pressed onto the outside of the hub, or set between the bearing ring and spindle shoulder. Another method is to attach the anulus to the hub seal, but I am unaware of that on MB seals.
However few 2005 cars would have come to us for parts prior to my retirement in 2008.
I suspect the coiled wire ring is the spring to hold seal lip tension on the shaft - common in seals for 100+ years.
My first thought is to follow the electrical connection to the hub checking for connectivity and clean contacts.
The ML is different being a drive axle with a unitized bearing.
However that set up has been used for decades (even prior to ABS) on E & S class. When they became ABS, those same bearings and seal worked without drama.
I presume MB worked the same as most brands non drive hubs, by using a segmanted anulus either pressed onto the outside of the hub, or set between the bearing ring and spindle shoulder. Another method is to attach the anulus to the hub seal, but I am unaware of that on MB seals.
However few 2005 cars would have come to us for parts prior to my retirement in 2008.
I suspect the coiled wire ring is the spring to hold seal lip tension on the shaft - common in seals for 100+ years.
My first thought is to follow the electrical connection to the hub checking for connectivity and clean contacts.
The ML is different being a drive axle with a unitized bearing.
To everyone doing the bearing swap in the future, make sure you use genuine Mercedes grease seals or if you insist on using seals from another company, make sure they’re magnetic. Otherwise, I’m pretty sure they will be incompatible with the ESP/ABS.
06-17-2017, 06:37 PM
#7
Problem solved. I just replaced my bearings, race, and seals and when I drove off, ABS and ESP failure. 
I was surprised to see this because I used OEM parts to prevent it.
What caused the problem was I did not install the inner seal flush with the hub. It was about 1mm counter sunk. this created a larger distance from the sensor. I removed the seal, and installed a new one flush with the hub. Problem solved.
So my advice;
1. Use OEM seals so you know the magnetic sensor is built it.
2. Install the seal FLUSH with the hub so the distance to the sensor is correct.
3. Make sure seal and sensor are clean and free from grease.
4. Do one side at a time and test drive to isolate any issues.
I was surprised to see this because I used OEM parts to prevent it. What caused the problem was I did not install the inner seal flush with the hub. It was about 1mm counter sunk. this created a larger distance from the sensor. I removed the seal, and installed a new one flush with the hub. Problem solved.
So my advice;
1. Use OEM seals so you know the magnetic sensor is built it.
2. Install the seal FLUSH with the hub so the distance to the sensor is correct.
3. Make sure seal and sensor are clean and free from grease.
4. Do one side at a time and test drive to isolate any issues.
