when the car runs straight or turning right, nothing happens, but the brake wear lamp appears on when turning car nearly fully left even car is on stationary with the steering wheel being fully in left. The brake pads and brake pad sensors are replaced new one. After turning off the ignition switch and turning on again with engine running, no fault message. What happen with this car? some one cans help?

Perhaps the sensor wire on the wheel is damaged?

Did you ever figure out the problem? I'm having the exact same problem. Resets every time I shut off but then comes back on when I turn steering wheel all way to left. First came on after replacing tires; needed new front brakes and replaced them; but light still comes on when turn all the way left even if I don't move or apply brakes.

Check the wiring from connector of brake sensor to connector located top of wheel house( you can see it, when you open the lid). This witing is discontinuity, you can connact again or replace it

I got same problem and dealership changed complete wiring on that side. I thought about sensor but it was problem in wiring. I am not sure if I can find work order but I will try ...

I had a very recent experience with my 2010 ML350 where at first the break wear light would appear once a day until it was almost constant. Turning the steering wheel left a couple rotations always triggered it. My first shot was to replace the front break sensor even though breaks had plenty of life left. The front break sensor (2010 ML 350 has them on the passenger side) looked like it had a crack on the seam of the plastic but that didn't solve it. The triggered wear indication with the steering made me feel like the cable could have been bad even though connections were in tact and there was no obvious surface damage with the cable.

The part # is A 164 540 46 33 and since it was only $45 with shipping I thought that's better than paying stealership diagnostic prices before they do anything to fix it.

The task isn't difficult. Once the wheel is off you need to remove the wheel well cover using a 10mm socket and the pry up the 3 plastic fasteners. The cable is secured on three plastic clips that a flat head can assist prying off. There is one bolt on the break caliper that I thought could be taken off with a 9mm socket.

The top plug has the RPM cable (or speedometer?) and the break sensor cable connected together so you can use a flat head screwdriver to push down on the metal retaining clip and pull both out. Then you can separate the two and put the new break sensor cable on.

This fixed the problem. It's much nicer driving without the break wear indication crying wolf and annoying me. I'm taking a trip to Denver in the winter so I thought I should make sure the breaks are good to go!