RobF15e

I was able to get the intakes out this morning. My EGR was jammed in there and I was unable to get it separated till after I got the intakes out. I was able to disconnect the coolant lines at the firewall. There is a little clip that will come off and let you slide the coolant lines away from the firewall. There is a trick to getting the clip off. I took some pictures and I'll see if I can load them for others. I did end up dumping coolant into the oil..... I had taken the turbo pedestal off to get it out of the way. Once I lifted the intakes up, coolant came out of the egr coolant hoses. Well, I was going to change the oil anyway. I had the same problem when I pulled the oil cooler off. I hadn't realized it had coolant in it. So I ended up with coolant and oil in a big puddle in the engine valley. What a mess. I sure hope I don't have to do this again. Although, next time will be easier...

masc243

Please post some pics of your intake manifold ports so folks can see what the PCV and EGR system are cooking in there. Also post some pics of the inlets on the cylinder head.

Mike

20swrt

For those of you who did this themselves - did you see any leftover/residual leaks still coming out of the seep hole after the repair? If yes, how long before it disappears ? I had mine done by the dealership but it still seems to weep out of that hole on the driver side of the engine. Dealer claims its residual - I tried to clean it but it still seeps oil.

Is it possible for the rear engine oil seal to fail and leak into that same weep hole ?

masc243

The valley where the oil cooler mounts should be clean when the cooler is reinstalled. There are a couple of areas aft of the cooler where the turbo standoff mounts that would be difficult to clean. I used a screwdriver and rags to soak up what I could and was fairly confident that no residual oil would be visible. After the repair, I left off the plastic engine belly panel for about a week or so, so that I could visually inspect the area for leaks.


I had no residual oil. Repaneled and no spots in the garage at all since the repair was made.


I'm not sure about the rear seal showing leak showing in the same area.


You could pop off your engine cover and take a peak at your fuel filter connections and make sure that you don't have any fuel leaks. Fuel seeps in the filter area would also take the same route and ultimately accumulate in the valley and make its way to the drain hole. By the time it travels through residual engine crud, it could appear as if it were engine oil.




Mike

20swrt

I brought back my ML to the dealer because it was still leaking through the seep hole. They found out it was the Y-pipe. They ordered a new pipe and seal. Since the oil cooler was soaked in oil...it took some time for it to drain and dry up. There is no more leaking in the seep hole. But there is still very little oil coming from the bottom of the bell housing. Im guessing its coming from inside the bell housing. Its slowly improving though.

masc243

When you say Y Pipe, I assume you are referring to the turbo inlet and associated seal. If they changed the pipe and seal, you should be good. Hopefully you caught it early enough so that oil hasn't accumulated on top of the swirl motor. Oil seeping on top of the swirl motor will eventually make its way to pin holes at the top of the connector and find its way to the electronics of the board inside and trash it.

Franky Sulistyo

I got the same leaking problem. I followed some instruction on these treads. Everything run smoothly until I hurt one of the bolds on manifold.

I'm really stuck now. Any inputs appreciated!

Franky

masc243

There are many bolts in the Intake manfold. Did you strip one or brake one off. Gonna have to be more specific; maybe a pic or 2

Franky Sulistyo

Here is the picture.

masc243

Still don't get it. What is wrong? Can't really see what the pic is trying to show. 2 Missing bolts??

Nuru

The bolt head is kinda stripped from what I can see, not insurmountable to take off. There are tools to do that.

myworld111

I have the same issue on my 2012 GL @ 49k miles(luckily still under warranty or bad luck that this hapenned so soon). Anyway the dealer is replacing the seals with the new purple viton seals.

My question is should my GL which is already a 2012 have not had these seals from the factory. I mean is it usual to have the older variety of seals even after there is a TSB and known issue with these?

Question 2 - can anyone provide follow up. Is this likely to happen again???

Nuru

Lucky it happened during the warranty period - hopefully you won't see this again, but if you keep the car a long time it could as eventually all seals will give out. My car is in for a lower turbo seal and an oil cooler leak (probably another seal). I am very glad my car is under warranty. I am at 25k miles.

Franky Sulistyo

I continued fixing my car again this week. Finally, I got those bolts removed and I'm pretty much done with replacing the oil cooler seals and other seals. I put everything back in order plus changed new fuel and air filter and done all the cleaning.
Now, the problem is not the leaking oil anymore, but the car won't start. What would be the problem now? I heard some noise like running water in the beginning, i believed it's the coolant. Other noise was from around the turbo.

andydiesel

Have no start issue after cooler seals repl.
Air in fuel system? - had to disconect fuel rails to remove wiring for access...
Also find a spare (?) wiring connector... shown on the attached photo.
Anyone?

andydiesel

OK - found the crosspipe nut was loose...starts fine now.
Any opinions on the "spare" electrical plug?.

masc243

Awesome! Another successful ending. As far as the electrical plug goes, need a better picture of it. Might it be a water in fuel sensor connector? I just don't recall any extra connectors when I did mine. If it goes to a needed sensor, ml would likely not start; that was my biggest concern when I initially read your post.

andydiesel

Well... no cigar yet.
Tried driving yesterday - the motor dies when accelerating.
In neutral, it stumbles between 1500 and 2000RPM. Reaches but does not maintain higher RPM.
Double checked all conections, no OBD codes showing. CEL not on...
The actuator motor cycles a few times after switching ignition off - wonder if it's possible to incorrectly hook up the linkage?

Will post a close up pic of the plug in question.

andydiesel

The plug in question...

N_Jay

Did you check the water sensor in the fuel filter?

andydiesel

Yes, it's connected.

andydiesel

Think my son has found the problem...
A sensor (located just above the alternator) in the throttle box, keeps popping out - found one of the locking lugs on it broken.

Drapersmeadow

Just finished the Oil Cooler Leak job on my 2009 ML320 @ 99.5K.

Started fine. Took it for a test run and at first had no acceleration. Did a restart and everything was fine. Great acceleration and no issues. Topped up the coolant and oil.

The next day....about 4 hours later...finished the repairs at 4AM, we took a trip and it had no acceleration..."Limp Mode", stuck flaps, swirl motor busted, whatever was wrong. Made a necessary 400 mile round trip with no passing kickdown or acceleration. Good fuel consumption. Temp good, etc. Symptoms did not improve over the next few days. Figured it may be the stuck intake flaps from a busted swirl motor. Read codes and nothing showed after clearing codes from rebuild.

Started to come back a few days later after using the paddles to shift for 2 days. Better accel when paddle shifting. So, I think the swirl motor may be OK. Still no good acceleration at higher speeds. No kickdown and "boost".

Then 4 days ago, the thermostat/ temp warning light came on. Acceleration still not back to normal, but much better. Temp reading on dash is normal 90C+-. Coolant level OK. All other functions seem good. Fuel Consumption better than before. No coolant leaks.
Temps were 6F in the AM Thursday, 30s days and 20s night. Would not start until 5-7 tries last 4 days now. Outside first day. In garage in upper 30s to 40s and still had 5 tries to get it started today. Fine after that, even after sitting for hours. But still the accel and kickdown issues.

Tried to do code read, but Advance Auto reader was down. Today, had to take a 150 mile trip. Temp sensor on. Rainy, 38 F whole trip. Pulled into destination and had some steam coming from front of radiator at front right. No leaks. No smell of coolant. Temp sensor said 90C.

Any ideas short of running it into the dealer to do a full readout and diagnosis. Frustrating after I thought I had completed the oil cooler leak job and it ran excellent first run up the street.

andydiesel

Plug on the differential pressure sensor may not be fully in...Facing vehicle, its on the RHS near the firewall.

LoxSmith

2008 ML320 CDI Any thoughts as to what I may have missed after replacing the oil cooler gaskets? I drove it for a week with no leaks. Now I have a constant drip of coolant with the engine on. The drip is coming out from the same place as was the oil cooler leak but when I look into that area of the engine from the front and below the turbo I don't see puddling around the cooler but it is wet with coolant. I could have missed something. I really don't remember any other coolant related items in that area other than the air intake manifolds, and oil cooler. Thoughts? Thank you.