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2008 ML320 CDI - Oil Cooler Seals Replacement

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2008 ML320 CDI - Oil Cooler Seals Replacement

Old 12-27-2017, 11:44 PM
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2008 ML320 CDI
Oil Cooler Gaskets Replacement

Hi there,
joined the oil cooler repair club yesterday.
After 9 hours I got it all apart and will be spending tomorrow cleaning all parts.

Any suggestions on what to use to get all the gunk removed??



Before....


After....
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Old 12-28-2017, 07:10 AM
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Remove the gunk from what? The oil cooler? You can buy something called "parts cleaner" from your local auto store. It's available in spray or liquid form. I usually keep a gallon around for soaking parts with stubborn "gunk" or other residues overnight, then using something like an old toothbrush to finish the job. If it's the gunk in the picture, use the spray, a non-metallic brush with hard bristles and plenty of rags.
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Old 12-28-2017, 04:08 PM
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Just wondering if I can clean most of the stuff out with a little scraper. What about small pieces that will fall inside. Not a big deal or big no no?
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Old 12-28-2017, 05:43 PM
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I would put rags in the openings to prevent anything from falling in, clean carefully with solvent and a plastic scraper and/or hard bristle brush, then use a vacuum to suck up any fragments of gunk you missed. But it's not my engine, it's yours...
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Old 12-28-2017, 05:48 PM
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No matter how carefully I cleaned or not, I would vacuum out the intakes.
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Old 12-28-2017, 11:44 PM
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Oil Cooler assembly.

I know the torque value is 12NM.
But is there a torque pattern for the oil cooler?
I have the repair manual for the oil cooler job, but there is no mention of a torque pattern!
Anybody knows????
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Old 12-29-2017, 05:06 AM
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I don't think a torque pattern is necessary, but whenever there isn't one, always start at the middle and work outward in a crisscross pattern.

Being that everything is apart, it would be a good idea to flush the system out using the cleaner at the bottom of the PDF.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
R&I Oil Cooler Eng. 642 #1.pdf (89.4 KB, 110 views)

Last edited by Maj. Dundee; 12-29-2017 at 06:00 AM.
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Old 01-03-2018, 09:19 PM
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It's alive

Just finished the oil cooler replacement and test drove for an hour. Engine sounds better as it did before and responds a bit faster.
Parked over a piece of cardboard over night just in case!

Looking back at the 7 days (around 6 hours a day) going through the repair. It's not that bad and I could do it next time probably in half the time, maybe less. There will be no standing back, looking at the motor and scratching my head (occasionally swearing in German or Russian) 😁😁😁


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Old 01-05-2018, 06:01 PM
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Hi I have the same issue. I completed the oil cooler gasket replacement with all gaskets. Now Water is leaking from underneath. Please let me know how you fixed the issue. That will really help.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by LoxSmith View Post
2008 ML320 CDI Any thoughts as to what I may have missed after replacing the oil cooler gaskets? I drove it for a week with no leaks. Now I have a constant drip of coolant with the engine on. The drip is coming out from the same place as was the oil cooler leak but when I look into that area of the engine from the front and below the turbo I don't see puddling around the cooler but it is wet with coolant. I could have missed something. I really don't remember any other coolant related items in that area other than the air intake manifolds, and oil cooler. Thoughts? Thank you.
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Old 01-05-2018, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jeevankrish View Post
Hi I have the same issue. I completed the oil cooler gasket replacement with all gaskets. Now Water is leaking from underneath. Please let me know how you fixed the issue. That will really help.

Thanks.
Water or coolant?
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Old 01-05-2018, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by N_Jay View Post
Water or coolant?
Its coolant (Green). During the oil cooler seal replacement, there are only 4 locations where there is coolant interaction.
1. Oil cooler itself. Oil / Coolant. I have new purple viton seals and perfect torque settings per specs - I doubt there is leak from here. Also if it leaks coolant, than oil also has to leak. I do not see oil in the coolant
2. Turbocharger - Pedestal from engine block. I replaced new seals and tightened at 20 NM per specs - poor visibility, can't see the leak
3. Turbocharger sitting on the pedestal - New seals and tightened to 20 NM per specs - poor visibility, can't see the leak
4. Water line - Tiny Coolant pipe on the right side of turbo with 2 O-Rings. This is ok, no leaks

My question is did I screw up with alignment of the turbocharge on the pedestal or upward (2 & 3). Should I loosen the bolts on the pedestal, shakeup the Turbo and re-tighten or do I have to remove & replace to new seals again ? Called the dealer and he talks about pressure test. I do not have such facilities in my home garage.

Also how to I go underneath the car and search for leak ?

Thanks for any help.
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Old 01-06-2018, 09:04 AM
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If you were able to do the cooler replacement I would bet you can gin-up a pressure test set up.

Get an bore scope camera off ebay and see what you can find.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-5-7-8mm-A...S/162589761880
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Old 01-06-2018, 11:45 AM
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Green coolant is a big no no. A page from your owner's manual shows that any coolant from sheets 325.0 & 326.0 will do.

Drain all green coolant, fill with water and drain until all traces of green is gone. Then fill with proper coolant with 50-50 mixture.
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Old 01-06-2018, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee View Post
Green coolant is a big no no. A page from your owner's manual shows that any coolant from sheets 325.0 & 326.0 will do.

Drain all green coolant, fill with water and drain until all traces of green is gone. Then fill with proper coolant with 50-50 mixture.
From what I have found, Zerex G-05 (Honey/Gold) is the factory fill on US made MBs and is equivalent to the MB blue coolant.
I have also heard that Zerex makes G-05 in a few colors for different OEMs.
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Old 01-06-2018, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by N_Jay View Post
From what I have found, Zerex G-05 (Honey/Gold) is the factory fill on US made MBs and is equivalent to the MB blue coolant.
I have also heard that Zerex makes G-05 in a few colors for different OEMs.
Yes that's correct, but I do not believe that is the same for diesel and Bluetec engines.
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee View Post
Yes that's correct, but I do not believe that is the same for diesel and Bluetec engines.
My GL320 has always had MB service and has "Gold" colored coolant.
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by N_Jay View Post
My GL320 has always had MB service and has "Gold" colored coolant.
That might very well be, but do you know for a fact that it is Zerex G05? It might be any one of the coolants listed above that it is gold colored.
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Old 01-07-2018, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee View Post
That might very well be, but do you know for a fact that it is Zerex G05? It might be any one of the coolants listed above that it is gold colored.
Not for sure, but have seen several references that G05 is what they use, however nothing conclusive.
I have topped up with G05 and see no signs of incompatibly.
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Old 01-15-2018, 11:22 AM
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P0471/P0234 error after oil/water cooler replacement 2012 ML350 Bluetec

Hi All, Finally completed Oil/water cooler replacement. Earlier issues of coolant leaking etc. was false. Pressure test performed at 15Psi using a loaner coolant pressure test kit from Autozone and no leaks. The coolant was puddled up somewhere in the chassis and on the first start, it was literally raining and I thought that it was leaking all over. All that is dry. Cleared all errors using MB Star diagnosis tool. Started the car and ran for couple of hours. No issues at idle condition. On raising the accelerator, there seems to be exhaust fumes coming from underneath engine bay and following error codes:
P0471: Exhaust Pressure Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0234: Turbocharger/supercharger overboost condition
The upper limit value of component B60 (Exhaust Back Pressure sensor) has been exceeded
There is an internal fault in component B60 (Exhaust Back Pressure sensor)
I am sure during and after repair work there were not blocks or obstructions to the exhaust circuit.
Two items I am not sure of that is contributing:
1) I replaced the clamp on the pipe fitting downstream from Turbo to catalytic converter but DID NOT replace the crush washer at that junction. That could be leaking. There could also be leak on the same outlet on turbocharger. I tightened to 20Nm. What should be the torque on the TC fitting ?
2) I replaced the sensor on EGR that I broke. (Driver side, next to EGR)
Please let me know if this leak could be a reason for error codes.
Also does the turbo get really hot when you step on the gas pedal for some time ? I read somewhere that turbo can reach upto 1050 Deg Cent.
Also I am not able to reset the "Low Coolant level Message" on the dash. How do I perform ? could there be air trapped in the circuit as I drained out all the coolant ? and how do I remove if I had to do that ?
Please help. Thanks.
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Old 01-16-2018, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jeevankrish View Post
Hi All, Finally completed Oil/water cooler replacement. Earlier issues of coolant leaking etc. was false. Pressure test performed at 15Psi using a loaner coolant pressure test kit from Autozone and no leaks. The coolant was puddled up somewhere in the chassis and on the first start, it was literally raining and I thought that it was leaking all over. All that is dry. Cleared all errors using MB Star diagnosis tool. Started the car and ran for couple of hours. No issues at idle condition. On raising the accelerator, there seems to be exhaust fumes coming from underneath engine bay and following error codes:
P0471: Exhaust Pressure Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0234: Turbocharger/supercharger overboost condition
The upper limit value of component B60 (Exhaust Back Pressure sensor) has been exceeded
There is an internal fault in component B60 (Exhaust Back Pressure sensor)
I am sure during and after repair work there were not blocks or obstructions to the exhaust circuit.
Two items I am not sure of that is contributing:
1) I replaced the clamp on the pipe fitting downstream from Turbo to catalytic converter but DID NOT replace the crush washer at that junction. That could be leaking. There could also be leak on the same outlet on turbocharger. I tightened to 20Nm. What should be the torque on the TC fitting ?
2) I replaced the sensor on EGR that I broke. (Driver side, next to EGR)
Please let me know if this leak could be a reason for error codes.
Also does the turbo get really hot when you step on the gas pedal for some time ? I read somewhere that turbo can reach upto 1050 Deg Cent.
Also I am not able to reset the "Low Coolant level Message" on the dash. How do I perform ? could there be air trapped in the circuit as I drained out all the coolant ? and how do I remove if I had to do that ?
Please help. Thanks.
probably doesn't help you much but my VGT control was getting stuck after I put mine back together you could check that make sure its not carboned up and getting stuck. I stopped fighting all the emissions crap on mine and just got a tune to eliminate some of the codes. If you see temps up to 1050 C then you most likely just fried something. Typically you don't want to run over 1200-1300F anything more than 1500 most vehicles will go into limp mode.
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Old 02-02-2018, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by N_Jay View Post
Was yours just the seal, or a failed cooler?
N Jay - It was the seal. I cleaned the oil cooler inside and out, and tried a pressure test. No leaks.
Subsequently, in the ALLDATAdiy literature, which appears to be a direct downloads from MB literature, it says clearly, "The oil cooler is not the cause and must not be replaced."
I'm an engineer, in the jet engine field. The oil cooler is made of a dozen or so aluminum plates, with channels in them, brazed together under pressure and heat. If it's going to leak, it will be because of an incomplete braze coverage, and it will happen AS SOON AS IT'S EXPOSED TO OIL UNDER PRESSURE. Part of the manufacturing process would be to test the assembly, under much higher temperatures and pressures than it would ever see in service. That type of brazed assembly is very stable (will not suddenly leak) under the pressures and temperatures it's exposed to, in operation, and certainly not, after years of operation.
Worked on this project, part time, since October. Runs fine, no leaks.
However, after a day or so it went into "limp" mode, generating a trouble code P2015, which means "P2015 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1." I think that means that the position of the Swirl Flaps is problematic. It's probably an electrical connector that is not fully connected, but which one? Does anyone know, which connector reads out the Swirl Flap position?
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Old 04-10-2018, 07:39 PM
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I approached MB regarding leaking oil cooler leaks, they were not interested in helping out. I was on my own.
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Old 04-10-2018, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by roccomorra View Post
I approached MB regarding leaking oil cooler leaks, they were not interested in helping out. I was on my own.
What year and model?
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Old 01-12-2019, 10:17 AM
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I'm in the process of buttoning everything back up after replacing my seals. Anyone tackling this job in the future may want to inspect their swirl flap intake runners. Mine had severe wear at the swirl motor arm attachment point which significantly reduced the travel of the flaps. There's a video at this
that illustrates this type of wear. Luckily, I had anticipated this and had a set of aluminum replacement runners on hand. Shouldn't have to worry about these wearing out. I bought them along with new clips on the auction website for $120 shipped from Canada, but have since seen listings located in the US for about half that price advertised for Jeep OM642 engines. They appear to be the same part.

I've only had two stumbles so far. First, I broke a bolt off on the turbo housing. Had it extracted at a machine shop for $25. The only other problem I've run into was trying to solve out how to remove the circular clips that are on the injector return lines. These are the little discs that spin around. Took me an hour to figure out, but you have to pull up on the spinning disc while holding the center down to release. Attached is a photo (courtesy of another poster) that provides a better view of the clip in order to illustrate how these work.

I ordered a set of glow plug pliers, but they didn't arrive in time, so I ended up using needle nose pliers and broke two of the connectors. I was happy to find that these can be easily replaced. My local dealership had them in stock for about $3 each.

Make sure you clean your EGR cooler thoroughly. Mine was almost completely clogged. I also removed the EGR valve and gave it a good cleaning as these are prone to sticking with enough carbon build-up. If I had known about the intake runner wear and how much gunk had accumulated in the engine, I would have pulled all this apart, even if the oil seals didn't need to be replaced. Really glad they forced me to get in there and see what a mess I had. I'm going to replace the PCV soon and look into possibly installing an oil catch can.





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Old Today, 12:34 AM
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So I ended up with a bad coolant leak once I put everything back together. Endoscope showed it to be the small coolant pipe on the EGR Cooler. I should have suspected this when the bolts didn't want to line up properly during reassembly of the EGR Cooler to the intake manifold. So I spent a day taking everything apart again and find that the small O-ring on this pipe was torn. Add one more day and another kit of gaskets and it was back together again. I've taken it on several test drives and no codes or any drips! Engine seems to run smoother and my gas mileage has definitely improved. My swirl flaps weren't opening properly due to the worn intake runners, so I'm guessing that contributed to poor fuel economy prior to the repair. This job initially took about 25 hours for me and was about half that the second time around (which didn't involve broken bolts or any cleaning). I've attached a photo of the swirl flap motor from underneath. This may help someone with reassembly of the linkages.

Swirl motor from below

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