CDI or Bluetech
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Super Member
Joined: May 2009
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From: Frederick
2000 ML320, 2005 E320 CDI
CDI or Bluetech
I did quite a bit of research on the E320 CDI before plopping down $15K for a super clean low mileage version for commute. 3 weeks later my company moved me to the opposite side of the world from my wife. So her 75 miles (one way) commute is in the E and I am driving my ML for now. It's getting roughly 15mpg. This is an off road variant and I do not want to put time and effort into reverting all the changes....so I want a diesel ML. Originally looked at GL instead - but been reading there are a ton of problems with them.
I am open minded - but want to know which I should go with. I went CDI for many reasons with the E - looking for the same info now in the ML. Any help is appreciated.
(I am also searching the forums to find my answers)
I am open minded - but want to know which I should go with. I went CDI for many reasons with the E - looking for the same info now in the ML. Any help is appreciated.
(I am also searching the forums to find my answers)
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 142
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From: Braselton,GA
2008 ML320cdi Irid.silver, 2013 VW Jetta Prem. Tdi Dsg red
My .02, Cdi- cheaper/older, thus a little harder to find a really good one. Pluses- non run flat tires, No Adblue. My mpg has been 22-25mpg driving it easy. Bluetec- plus- much better mpg from what I've seen on here. Neg's- run flat tires & no spare, Adblue tank. So it depends what are planning to spend, if $30k+, I'd get a Bluetec just for the higher mpg.
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 131
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2006 ml350
I do not have experience with the CDI, but my limited understanding of them is that they are virtually bulletproof.
I own a 2010 ML350 BlueTec and have had no problems and close to 120,000 miles. My commute is 84 miles round trip daily and I average 28 to 32 mpg. Long distance driving has yielded a best of 34 mpg (Eastern PA to Charleston SC - 680 miles on less than 1 tank approx. 20 gallons).
I have not had any problems with the run flats and average approx. 50,000 miles on the factory spec Bridgestones. I do carry a "Slime" tire repair kit with 12Vdc Air Compressor, slime and plugs when I run the winter Non-Runflat tires.
The AdBlue has not been as much of a hassle as I first thought it would be. I purchase 2.5 gallon jugs at Sam's club for about $11.00. I have used 41.5 total gallons so far. To make filling the tank easier, I bought two of the MB screw on top containers and cut the ring on the neck so I can easily open the bottle and refill from the larger container. Then screw the MB bottle onto tank (where the spare would be kept) and it fills with no fuss/no mess. I refill the tank every time I rotate tires (5,000miles) so I never have run into a low AdBlue condition.
I own a 2010 ML350 BlueTec and have had no problems and close to 120,000 miles. My commute is 84 miles round trip daily and I average 28 to 32 mpg. Long distance driving has yielded a best of 34 mpg (Eastern PA to Charleston SC - 680 miles on less than 1 tank approx. 20 gallons).
I have not had any problems with the run flats and average approx. 50,000 miles on the factory spec Bridgestones. I do carry a "Slime" tire repair kit with 12Vdc Air Compressor, slime and plugs when I run the winter Non-Runflat tires.
The AdBlue has not been as much of a hassle as I first thought it would be. I purchase 2.5 gallon jugs at Sam's club for about $11.00. I have used 41.5 total gallons so far. To make filling the tank easier, I bought two of the MB screw on top containers and cut the ring on the neck so I can easily open the bottle and refill from the larger container. Then screw the MB bottle onto tank (where the spare would be kept) and it fills with no fuss/no mess. I refill the tank every time I rotate tires (5,000miles) so I never have run into a low AdBlue condition.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 142
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From: Braselton,GA
2008 ML320cdi Irid.silver, 2013 VW Jetta Prem. Tdi Dsg red
On the transmission threads, I learned that the Bluetecs & newer models transmission have lower friction levels than he one in my 08 Cdi. They even switched to a newer blue low viscosity Trans fluid (people debating whether its backwards compatible or not, I'm sticking with the MB red to be on the safe side, don't want to blow $7k on a new tranny.) The Bluetec has a little more power & I imagine the gearing is also slightly different to achieve the much higher mpg's people are getting. I'm running Mobil1 ESP 5w30 with clean air filters, 36 lbs in tires, so I've done what I can within reason & still can't get above 26 hwy mpg.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 673
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From: Frederick
2000 ML320, 2005 E320 CDI
I heard the Bluetecs get worse MPGs...but that was research from the E class before I bought my 05 CDI. I understand them as bulletproof and want another diesel to replace the aging 2000 ML320.
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Joined: Dec 2011
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2008 R320 CDI, 2006 smart fortwo cabrio, 1983 240D, 1982 300SD, 1980 300SD
The bluetec is added expenses-fluid and run flat tires (twice as much around me for run flats and zero tire selection), I highly doubt there is any fuel economy difference within the W164 models, just the newer W166. The lease buyouts seem more reasonable on the 2010's vs the last couple model years, meaning 2010's are selling for pretty much the same price as 09 and slightly above 08 models, pretty strong values. If warranty is important then bluetec it is as the cdi models are all out of warranty or very close to the end of the extended one. Not much changed on the engine itself, they are all 3.0L v6, where your e class went from an inline 6 to v6 much different! I would say not nearly as bullet proof as your inline engine, and harder to source parts when the time comes. I have yet to see anyone selling internal engine parts for them yet...
Be sure to investigate the vehicle very well, check service history, inspect all fluids including all diffs and transmission, look for oil leaks on top of engine, steering rack etc.
Be sure to investigate the vehicle very well, check service history, inspect all fluids including all diffs and transmission, look for oil leaks on top of engine, steering rack etc.
