LED rear tail light turn signal failure.
#26
I cleared out all of that a couple days ago and saw no evidence of water. But I will try the water hose. It did seem to start after a pretty fierce thunderstorm with high winds. thanks for the suggestion and info.
#27
MBWorld Fanatic!
When you find the leak you will have to replace both tail lamp seals, part #
164 826 15 91 & 16 91. The new seals must be adhered to the body, not the tail lamp.
#28
Hi Leroy2007...I have this exact same issue. A number of bulbs not working after a heavy rainstorm. What did you end up doing to fix? I understand the suggestion by Maj. Dundee to replace the seals but how did you fix the lights and get them all working again?
#29
Thanks for the suggestion. I understand that the seals should be replaced for future damage, but any ideas on how to fix all of the bulbs that are simultaneously out?
#30
MBWorld Fanatic!
#31
You might have had water entry and not known about it, so you have no choice but to check the Rear SAM unit which controls all of the lights you mentioned.
Remove spare tire and everything else including the mat. If you don't have any obvious water, close the tailgate and use a high pressure water hose around the right rear tail light and you might find that water is entering the interior.
Remove spare tire and everything else including the mat. If you don't have any obvious water, close the tailgate and use a high pressure water hose around the right rear tail light and you might find that water is entering the interior.
#32
MBWorld Fanatic!
You must take a look at the metal body in the spare tire area. I don't know how long ago you had water enter the truck, but you will have to take a look at the SAM.
Remove all the connectors and open it up and check for corrosion.
Remove all the connectors and open it up and check for corrosion.
The following users liked this post:
Liuds (08-08-2017)
#33
- Lining under the spare tire definitely a little damp, indicating recent water intrusion.
- Picture 1 - actuator for the rear gate severly rusted. This explains why that doesn't work anymore and also indicates water over the years.
- Picture 2 - no obvious signs of bad corrosion around the SAM or connectors
- Picture 3 - noticed an unconnected wire but could not figure out what it should go to.
Any suggestions on next steps to limit the damage from a dealer? I'm comfortable to buy a SAM unit and replace on my own to try but I'm not sure about re-programming issues both with replacing SAM and unplugging the battery. Also, could low battery voltage issues be causing multiple light errors?
Really appreciate your help!
#34
MBWorld Fanatic!
Let's start with what lights do not work. Be specific.
As a matter of fact, besides the lighting, list everything that does not work.
As a matter of fact, besides the lighting, list everything that does not work.
Last edited by Maj. Dundee; 08-01-2017 at 10:49 PM.
#35
Tail lamp / rear fog lamp left
Tail lamp left
Tail lamp right
License plate lamp left
License plate lamp right
Reverse lamp right
Turn signal rear left
3rd brake lamp
Thank you!
#36
MBWorld Fanatic!
Please list the year and model of your ML and where you live. Also list your full vin#.
The hydraulic pump for the hatch looks completely destroyed, especially the two wire connector to it. Remove the connector and see if the two pins at the pump are broken.
If they are you must buy a new pump which includes the harness, or find a used pump with harness with the same part #, according to your vin#.
The loose harness is a feature you do not have, so disregard it.
All of the lighting issues you are having are controlled by the rear SAM. But as I suggested, remove it and open it up and check for corrosion and clean the board with Elec. Contact Cleaner and a used toothbrush.
The hydraulic pump for the hatch looks completely destroyed, especially the two wire connector to it. Remove the connector and see if the two pins at the pump are broken.
If they are you must buy a new pump which includes the harness, or find a used pump with harness with the same part #, according to your vin#.
The loose harness is a feature you do not have, so disregard it.
All of the lighting issues you are having are controlled by the rear SAM. But as I suggested, remove it and open it up and check for corrosion and clean the board with Elec. Contact Cleaner and a used toothbrush.
#37
Please list the year and model of your ML and where you live. Also list your full vin#.
The hydraulic pump for the hatch looks completely destroyed, especially the two wire connector to it. Remove the connector and see if the two pins at the pump are broken.
If they are you must buy a new pump which includes the harness, or find a used pump with harness with the same part #, according to your vin#.
The loose harness is a feature you do not have, so disregard it.
All of the lighting issues you are having are controlled by the rear SAM. But as I suggested, remove it and open it up and check for corrosion and clean the board with Elec. Contact Cleaner and a used toothbrush.
The hydraulic pump for the hatch looks completely destroyed, especially the two wire connector to it. Remove the connector and see if the two pins at the pump are broken.
If they are you must buy a new pump which includes the harness, or find a used pump with harness with the same part #, according to your vin#.
The loose harness is a feature you do not have, so disregard it.
All of the lighting issues you are having are controlled by the rear SAM. But as I suggested, remove it and open it up and check for corrosion and clean the board with Elec. Contact Cleaner and a used toothbrush.
SUV is 2007 ML350 4Matic. Vin is 4JGBB86E97A263463. We are in the US.
I agree that the hatch pump is completely destroyed. I don't need to fix this in the near future. The lights are (obviously) much more critical.
I will try to clean the board as you say. Will I ruin any programming or anything by unplugging the battery to do this? I've never worked on a Benz before so I apologize for any seemingly silly questions.
#39
Newbie
2009 ML350 rear left, driver side, signal LED, 2 out of 4 dies, dash board message
Hi Chad,
I have recently had same/similiar problem with right side tail light in the signal portion of the assembly- the 2 adjacent leds on left side of the upper row of 4 leds do not work at all. Remaining 2 leds on upper row plus the lower row of 4 leds "work" albeit very faintly. Other than that the rest of the assembly works!
I have assembly dismantled- it is not sealed- it does not require cutting with a dremel. Heat with a blow dryer the edge of assembly-gently pull off lens while heating at same time. Start pulling lens apart at "tapered" end first. Lens "sealed" on to assembly with silicon but mine came apart easily- silicon dry/old and hence possible reason for issues. At back of assembly- a total of 5 small screws need to be removed to access pcbs - 2 at top, 2 at bottom, and there is 1 hiding under the foam where bolt is at "tapered" end. This gives access to the pcbs- a total of 4 pcbs. The pcbs are held on by a total of 10 smaller screws. LED lights are surface mounted to the pcbs.
This is where I am stalled. Help if it is out there!?
I did solder a 10amp copper wire ground to metal part of light assembly as poor grounding is frequently noted in forums as a problem. This did not fix my signal problem. The leds are surface mounted and appear to be of a plastic weld/solder and I have not been able to locate the same type of leds on line.
I have not given up- but definitely at a full stop. It is possible to trouble shoot the pcbs but I need to read up on that.
Trying to avoid having to purchase a brand new assembly for appox $300-$500.
Thomas
I have recently had same/similiar problem with right side tail light in the signal portion of the assembly- the 2 adjacent leds on left side of the upper row of 4 leds do not work at all. Remaining 2 leds on upper row plus the lower row of 4 leds "work" albeit very faintly. Other than that the rest of the assembly works!
I have assembly dismantled- it is not sealed- it does not require cutting with a dremel. Heat with a blow dryer the edge of assembly-gently pull off lens while heating at same time. Start pulling lens apart at "tapered" end first. Lens "sealed" on to assembly with silicon but mine came apart easily- silicon dry/old and hence possible reason for issues. At back of assembly- a total of 5 small screws need to be removed to access pcbs - 2 at top, 2 at bottom, and there is 1 hiding under the foam where bolt is at "tapered" end. This gives access to the pcbs- a total of 4 pcbs. The pcbs are held on by a total of 10 smaller screws. LED lights are surface mounted to the pcbs.
This is where I am stalled. Help if it is out there!?
I did solder a 10amp copper wire ground to metal part of light assembly as poor grounding is frequently noted in forums as a problem. This did not fix my signal problem. The leds are surface mounted and appear to be of a plastic weld/solder and I have not been able to locate the same type of leds on line.
I have not given up- but definitely at a full stop. It is possible to trouble shoot the pcbs but I need to read up on that.
Trying to avoid having to purchase a brand new assembly for appox $300-$500.
Thomas
I have not open mine. But called the dealer. They asked for 180 CND for diagnosing, then might change the entire light assembly, rather than one of the pcb's for LED, total 800CND
#40
Newbie
2009 ML350 rear left, driver side, signal LED, 2 out of 4 dies, dash board message
hi,
my 2009ML350 did not have any water leak.
only left rear signal LED, tow of them were not on, horizontally total 4.
vertical 3 are on. But got an error message, "rear left signal", then fast blinking all left turn signal, front and rear.
It was started from the day before yesterday, then, yesterday, no fast blinking, no error message, but still 2 out of 4 LED were off.
Today, the same as two days ago, fast blinking.
Is it possible SAM box issue?
There is a black half cylinder plastic box beside the rear left light assembly. See one bolt fasten this box, with light color seeping debris, not steel rusting, look like battery leakage. Is this connected to the LED?
many thanks.
Liuds
#41
MBWorld Fanatic!
I could be wrong but as far as I know, MLs have bulbs to illuminate the rear lighting and not LEDs. The tail lamps are designed to look like LEDs but in fact bulbs are used.
Please take a photo of the rear section of the left tail lamp and also a photo of the black box you are referring to, as a matter of fact see if you can copy down the part # stamped on it.
Also post your full vin # so I can see what tail light you have.
Please take a photo of the rear section of the left tail lamp and also a photo of the black box you are referring to, as a matter of fact see if you can copy down the part # stamped on it.
Also post your full vin # so I can see what tail light you have.
Last edited by Maj. Dundee; 08-09-2017 at 07:42 AM.
#42
Newbie
I could be wrong but as far as I know, MLs have bulbs to illuminate the rear lighting and not LEDs. The tail lamps are designed to look like LEDs but in fact bulbs are used.
Please take a photo of the rear section of the left tail lamp and also a photo of the black box you are referring to, as a matter of fact see if you can copy down the part # stamped on it.
Also post your full vin # so I can see what tail light you have.
Please take a photo of the rear section of the left tail lamp and also a photo of the black box you are referring to, as a matter of fact see if you can copy down the part # stamped on it.
Also post your full vin # so I can see what tail light you have.
VIN
4JGBB86E19A493405
2009 ML350, 95,000 km, or 59400 miles
Symptoms:
day 1, temperature higher, lunch time, got dash board message, "turn signal, rear left", and blinking fast, 2 of the LEDs dies, all others are good, but fast blinking. total 8 on two horizontal rows, each row 4, vertical 3 LEDs.
day 2, after one night rest in the garage, cold down, no messages, no fast blinking, but those two dead LEDs still off.
day 3, unplug the wiring connector, re-connected it again, start engine, no messages, no fask blinking, however, got 2 more dead LEDs for the break light above the left turn signal ones.
This is what the MB dealership said:
180 CND diagnosing, if no wiring problems, change the entire tail light assembly, 438 CND of part, plug labour and taxes, in Canada.
Part number 164-906-4400
actually mine is 164 820 29 64,
must be interchangeable, made in Mexico, Oct 27, 2008
Thanks,
LIU
#43
Newbie
I could be wrong but as far as I know, MLs have bulbs to illuminate the rear lighting and not LEDs. The tail lamps are designed to look like LEDs but in fact bulbs are used.
Please take a photo of the rear section of the left tail lamp and also a photo of the black box you are referring to, as a matter of fact see if you can copy down the part # stamped on it.
Also post your full vin # so I can see what tail light you have.
Please take a photo of the rear section of the left tail lamp and also a photo of the black box you are referring to, as a matter of fact see if you can copy down the part # stamped on it.
Also post your full vin # so I can see what tail light you have.
I checked the seal on the vehicle's tail light were firmly tight. There was no water penetration at all. I got a water hose spraying on the tail light for 3 minutes.
If MB designed a tail light using LEDs, these LEDs must last longer than the major vehicle life.
Or change the entire tail light assemble due to few LEDs off. The design concept was wrong.
Last edited by Liuds; 08-10-2017 at 11:16 PM. Reason: add more details
#44
Newbie
Hi Chad,
I have recently had same/similiar problem with right side tail light in the signal portion of the assembly- the 2 adjacent leds on left side of the upper row of 4 leds do not work at all. Remaining 2 leds on upper row plus the lower row of 4 leds "work" albeit very faintly. Other than that the rest of the assembly works!
I have assembly dismantled- it is not sealed- it does not require cutting with a dremel. Heat with a blow dryer the edge of assembly-gently pull off lens while heating at same time. Start pulling lens apart at "tapered" end first. Lens "sealed" on to assembly with silicon but mine came apart easily- silicon dry/old and hence possible reason for issues. At back of assembly- a total of 5 small screws need to be removed to access pcbs - 2 at top, 2 at bottom, and there is 1 hiding under the foam where bolt is at "tapered" end. This gives access to the pcbs- a total of 4 pcbs. The pcbs are held on by a total of 10 smaller screws. LED lights are surface mounted to the pcbs.
This is where I am stalled. Help if it is out there!?
I did solder a 10amp copper wire ground to metal part of light assembly as poor grounding is frequently noted in forums as a problem. This did not fix my signal problem. The leds are surface mounted and appear to be of a plastic weld/solder and I have not been able to locate the same type of leds on line.
I have not given up- but definitely at a full stop. It is possible to trouble shoot the pcbs but I need to read up on that.
Trying to avoid having to purchase a brand new assembly for appox $300-$500.
Thomas
I have recently had same/similiar problem with right side tail light in the signal portion of the assembly- the 2 adjacent leds on left side of the upper row of 4 leds do not work at all. Remaining 2 leds on upper row plus the lower row of 4 leds "work" albeit very faintly. Other than that the rest of the assembly works!
I have assembly dismantled- it is not sealed- it does not require cutting with a dremel. Heat with a blow dryer the edge of assembly-gently pull off lens while heating at same time. Start pulling lens apart at "tapered" end first. Lens "sealed" on to assembly with silicon but mine came apart easily- silicon dry/old and hence possible reason for issues. At back of assembly- a total of 5 small screws need to be removed to access pcbs - 2 at top, 2 at bottom, and there is 1 hiding under the foam where bolt is at "tapered" end. This gives access to the pcbs- a total of 4 pcbs. The pcbs are held on by a total of 10 smaller screws. LED lights are surface mounted to the pcbs.
This is where I am stalled. Help if it is out there!?
I did solder a 10amp copper wire ground to metal part of light assembly as poor grounding is frequently noted in forums as a problem. This did not fix my signal problem. The leds are surface mounted and appear to be of a plastic weld/solder and I have not been able to locate the same type of leds on line.
I have not given up- but definitely at a full stop. It is possible to trouble shoot the pcbs but I need to read up on that.
Trying to avoid having to purchase a brand new assembly for appox $300-$500.
Thomas
What did you do with these LEDs eventually?
MB does not sell pcb's separately. The dealership asked my to pay 180 CND for diagnosing first. If it is the LEDs die, buy a new tail light assembly, 438$ plus tax, and one hour labour for this 4-nuts installation.
I called MB CANADA. They said that was MB design this way. oooo Mercedes does not know how to design a vehicle.
Anybody know MB's higher level customer services phone number?
LIU
#45
Hi Chad,
I have recently had same/similiar problem with right side tail light in the signal portion of the assembly- the 2 adjacent leds on left side of the upper row of 4 leds do not work at all. Remaining 2 leds on upper row plus the lower row of 4 leds "work" albeit very faintly. Other than that the rest of the assembly works!
I have assembly dismantled- it is not sealed- it does not require cutting with a dremel. Heat with a blow dryer the edge of assembly-gently pull off lens while heating at same time. Start pulling lens apart at "tapered" end first. Lens "sealed" on to assembly with silicon but mine came apart easily- silicon dry/old and hence possible reason for issues. At back of assembly- a total of 5 small screws need to be removed to access pcbs - 2 at top, 2 at bottom, and there is 1 hiding under the foam where bolt is at "tapered" end. This gives access to the pcbs- a total of 4 pcbs. The pcbs are held on by a total of 10 smaller screws. LED lights are surface mounted to the pcbs.
This is where I am stalled. Help if it is out there!?
I did solder a 10amp copper wire ground to metal part of light assembly as poor grounding is frequently noted in forums as a problem. This did not fix my signal problem. The leds are surface mounted and appear to be of a plastic weld/solder and I have not been able to locate the same type of leds on line.
I have not given up- but definitely at a full stop. It is possible to trouble shoot the pcbs but I need to read up on that.
Trying to avoid having to purchase a brand new assembly for appox $300-$500.
Thomas
I have recently had same/similiar problem with right side tail light in the signal portion of the assembly- the 2 adjacent leds on left side of the upper row of 4 leds do not work at all. Remaining 2 leds on upper row plus the lower row of 4 leds "work" albeit very faintly. Other than that the rest of the assembly works!
I have assembly dismantled- it is not sealed- it does not require cutting with a dremel. Heat with a blow dryer the edge of assembly-gently pull off lens while heating at same time. Start pulling lens apart at "tapered" end first. Lens "sealed" on to assembly with silicon but mine came apart easily- silicon dry/old and hence possible reason for issues. At back of assembly- a total of 5 small screws need to be removed to access pcbs - 2 at top, 2 at bottom, and there is 1 hiding under the foam where bolt is at "tapered" end. This gives access to the pcbs- a total of 4 pcbs. The pcbs are held on by a total of 10 smaller screws. LED lights are surface mounted to the pcbs.
This is where I am stalled. Help if it is out there!?
I did solder a 10amp copper wire ground to metal part of light assembly as poor grounding is frequently noted in forums as a problem. This did not fix my signal problem. The leds are surface mounted and appear to be of a plastic weld/solder and I have not been able to locate the same type of leds on line.
I have not given up- but definitely at a full stop. It is possible to trouble shoot the pcbs but I need to read up on that.
Trying to avoid having to purchase a brand new assembly for appox $300-$500.
Thomas
What you have done on the tail lamp seems very good, and I have searched this way on the net and on Youtube with out finding any video. would you please video tape it and send it. WE have the same issue on the tail lamp wit two set of the same side. WE need to fix it instead of keep buying it every time.
Best Rgds