M-Class (W164) Produced 2006-2011: ML280CDI, ML320CDI, ML420CDI, ML350, ML500, ML550

OEM Battery 07 ML350 4Matic

Old 01-08-2015, 09:11 PM
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C204, W209, W164
OEM Battery 07 ML350 4Matic

After 10 minutes of being off with the radio and heated seats on, the car wouldn't start and had to get boosted..... Time for a new battery.

Now Parts.com has 2 units listed, part numbers being;
  • 0055410901
and
  • 0055411001
What is the difference between the two? Which should I order? One is $255, the other is $185.


Again, the vehicle is a 2007 ML350 4Matic.
Old 01-09-2015, 09:34 AM
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2007 W211 E350 4Matic / 2008 X164 GL320 CDI
Can you run the seat heaters when in the Acc position or was the car "ON" with the engine not running?
Don't know why it shows you 2, but the AGM should be fine.
Old 01-09-2015, 05:06 PM
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Yes, the car was stopped, turned off, and in that state, it is in 'position 1', (its keyless go FWIW). Heated seats are possible with position 1 and 2 of the key.

The only difference I spotted between the two on the website was that one is an AGM battery, the other is labelled just as battery. T AGM is 95ah, as well as the cheaper one at $185; while the 'battery' is 90ah and $255.

Doesn't make sense to me, perhaps you could elaborate on that?
Old 01-09-2015, 05:17 PM
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I would seek out other web sites. Confirm the number (if you are set on buying an MB battery).
Old 01-10-2015, 11:39 PM
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One site I checked called the $255 battery a "BATTERIE" while the $185 was a "Battery AGM". You definitely want an AGM battery.

I agree the original battery in your truck has done very well and whoever manufactured it deserves repeat business. Same for the battery in my 2009, its still going.

Sears has lost their way in years past but might be OK now. A "DieHard Advanced Gold AGM Battery - Group Size 49" is $190 and available over the counter in most every city.
Old 02-06-2015, 03:45 AM
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2004 Mercedes E500, 2008 Mercedes ML350
IF YOU STILL HAVE THE FACTORY BATTERY, IT'S GETTING NEAR THE END OF ITS LIFE

The W164s are getting to the time where they need a new main battery, and it's really cold in a lot of the US right now, so here's a modified version of what I posted recently in the W211 forum, based on my experience in changing the battery in the W211 and the W164.

First, don't assume that because it died you need a new battery yet. Particularly with the versions of the W164 that came with a 180-amp alternator (Bosch now only sells a 220-amp alternator for this car), the car often is placing a big load on the battery, and not giving it a great recharge. Advance Auto Parts (and other places) will test your battery for free with the proper Midtronics tester, which is the only thing that will accurately tell you whether an AGM battery is good; the rest are just guessing. Maybe all it needs is a good overnight charge at 6 amps from an automatic charger while sitting in your car. Read about that below.

OVERVIEW

I recently replaced the battery myself in our 2008 ML 350, without realizing that Advance Auto Parts would have done it for free. It's doable, but it's a PITA the first time because it's under the passenger seat, and there are some considerations as to whether you also want to replace the teeny little AUX battery that comes in this car at the same time. One symptom of your battery being done is that the electrical system goes from totally normal to freaking out, even as you are driving down the road. You'll get buzzers and/or warning sounds and the lights on the dash will be flashing like a disco; candidly it's a little unnerving. It will come with no warning; one moment all is well and then Whoa! What the heck! If you have pulled over and stopped, roll that passenger seat forward all the way and up all the way before the battery completely dies, so you can get to the dead battery under the seat. If you're still driving, aim the car towards the nearest Advance Auto Parts or other store mentioned below, because you're going to be needing a new battery.

THE SIZE(S)

The size of your main battery is Group 49, also known as H8, also known as L5. You want an AGM version.

DOING IT YOURSELF: GREAT BATTERY DEALS AND A VERY DOABLE PROJECT FOR A STRONG, MODERATELY-HANDY PERSON.

If you want to do it yourself, THIS is probably the most reasonably-priced Group 49 L5 H8 AGM battery out there at $139 (and it looks to be a fine battery, an Exide Edge FP-AGML5/49): http://www.ruralking.com/battery-aut...-agml5-49.html (And if you live in the Midwest, near a Rural King, they'll do it for you.)

Here's a truly great deal on a name brand AGM battery at $145 with free shipping from Amazon Prime:
Amazon.com: ACDelco 49AGM Professional Automotive AGM BCI Group 49 Battery: Automotive Amazon.com: ACDelco 49AGM Professional Automotive AGM BCI Group 49 Battery: Automotive

The AC/Delco is such a good deal at $145 that Amazon has trouble keeping them in stock. (Like they were out yesterday, got a shipment today, and are now back down to one left. Then it'll be a few days where the site either says "Usually ships in 1-2 Months" or "Out of Stock", and the process will repeat. Just keep checking, and it will turn up. If you're lucky, it says Only Ten Left, even though they had a whole bunch earlier today.)

ONLY USE AN AGM BATTERY ON THE W164

On this car, I absolutely would not use anything but an AGM battery, because the thing is in the body of the car, and you just don't want to risk acid splashing anywhere in a wreck. Nor do you want hydrogen venting from a non-AGM battery into the passenger compartment. Nor do you want even the possibility that acid is going to spill down into that little compartment under the passenger seat, which also contains fun stuff like panels with fuses and relays and controllers and such. A non-AGM will deliver the power you need, but it won't be safe. So don't do it. I'm giving you quality AGM batteries at reasonable prices, so stick with the AGM. (AGM batteries contain the acid in glass-fabric "mats" that are pressed against the plates, so there is no loose acid anywhere, and they can't spill, ever.)

HOW TO DO IT

To install it yourself, I would watch this MB AutoHaus video on youtube. He shows you exactly the tools you need, and a few neat tricks that will save you a lot of time and irritation. The little magnet on a stick, the pry bar, all these make doing this as easy as possible, even though it's just plain going to be a bit of work. Figure 45 minutes.

One thing to note if you're DIY-ing it. On this car, especially if your battery is near death, you may well find that the negative cable connection to the battery is caked with acid corrosion. Once you get the old battery out, go to work on really cleaning the connecting lug on the negative side, which is near you and accessible (the positive will likely be totally clean, and almost inaccessible). A little round battery lug cleaner brush is cheap and a neat tool, and there are a number of sprays that will dissolve the corrosion, but plan for multiple applications, and bring plenty of paper towel to keep the spray from getting on your carpet. I would also use at least a little packet of corrosion inhibitor that you can buy for $1 or so to smear on the battery post and your now-gleaming lug; there are also sprays.

When you get the battery home, the first thing you should do is charge it fully outside the car. You CAN charge the battery when it's in the car using the jump connections under the hood (at up to 6 amps on an automatic charger, don't go higher -- the car will make noises showing its disapproval). They are easy to locate. NEVER charge it directly to the battery under the seat. Among other things, it's cramped in there and you will short something out. No matter what the retailer tells you about him having precharged the battery, it won't be absolutely-fully charged, and you should start out with a fully-charged battery. I have the Schumacher 2/6/10 automatic charger (XC10), and it works great. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher...arger/15140195

You will extend your battery's life if you throw that thing on the jump posts and fully-recharge your battery a couple of times a year,

Your dilemma will be whether to replace the little aux battery at the same time. You probably don't need to, as it gets very little use, but you will feel like a dork if it quits on you 3 months after wrestling with the main beast. Most independent shops will recommend that you change both, but that's because they know you'll be upset if you have to come back with a battery issue having just paid them to change the main. You have to pull the main battery to get to the AUX, so from an effort point of view, it's probably worth changing. BatteriesPlus has one that they say works, but be careful as it appears that the polarity of the prongs on it are reversed from the Mercedes one, so you have to be sure to put the right wire on the right connector, or enjoy your trip to the dealer. I decided to buy an OE one from FCP Euro: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...y-000000004039 It came promptly and is the real deal for $48. If you're going to pull the AUX, then you're going to need to use an OBDII Memory Saver cable to keep the settings, although resetting stuff is pretty easy and well-documented on this forum.

LOTS OF PLACES WILL INSTALL THEIR BATTERY FOR FREE OR CLOSE TO IT

If you want someone to install the main battery for you, I recently bought this AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8, which is the right one for the ML350, at Advance Auto Parts. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...?searchTerm=h8 At most of their stores, they will install it for free, and you can enjoy watching the guy huff and puff to do it for 45 minutes, thinking about what a great value you are receiving. (I didn't realize they would do that until returning my core after installing it myself. The guy had put in 3 in the last week under the seat, including one in the rain; he commiserated that it "isn't fun", but did so with the same feeling of accomplishment that I had. At our store, at least, the people really know what they are doing, and they do a lot of MB replacements. It's a fine battery, and for that price installed, hard to beat.

Advance Auto Parts will also test your current battery for free using a fancy-schmancy Midtronics tester, which is the exact brand that MB says you have to use to get an accurate result, and for the use of which they charge you at the dealer; the old methods won't give you the right answer with an AGM battery. (They also do a lot for free at Advance: install wiper blades, test your alternator, recycle used oil, etc.)

There is also Sears Die-Hard Advanced Gold AGM, where they will charge a fee that varies to install it, and the Bosch Platinum H8/Group 49 AGM at Pep Boys. [Some Pep Boys will install it for free, and some will charge for it. You can tell by picking the store and your car on their web site, and seeing what it says, then booking it online if it says they'll do it for free. If it shows a charge, Pep Boys will always beat anyone else's quote by 5%, so if you show them in the store that Sears will install it for $30, they will always beat that. That's true for everything, tires, etc., so if you can get a written quote anywhere on the exact same service or product (i.e. a Bosch H8 Platinum AGM Battery, a BWD/Intermotor MAP Sensor, etc.) they'll match or beat that price.] Bosch and Pep Boys often have specials on that battery; right now, $169 when you include the mail-in rebate.

People on the forum who buy the dealer battery because it is "better" are on a fool's errand. And there is no advantage to having the dealer install it as opposed to one of the above shops, or even yourself if you're handy and up for an adventure. There is nothing that the dealer does with regard to the battery that the shops won't do, and indeed companies like Pep Boys will use a memory saver when installing your battery so there won't be any need to reset anything after the old battery is disconnected.

Last edited by wjcandee; 02-20-2015 at 12:23 AM.
Old 02-24-2015, 04:28 AM
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I thought an update on good places to get the proper size AGM battery might be in order in these very cold, battery-challenging times:

From now through 2/28/15, PEP BOYS is offering the BOSCH H8/Group 49 Platinum Series Battery for 35% off, if ordered online and picked up in the store. Use code SECRET35 at checkout. That makes the battery a little more than $130 plus tax. And there's also a rebate from Bosch.

That's one good deal for an excellent AGM battery for our cars.
Old 01-02-2017, 08:21 PM
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Well, it has been two years since I did the installation described above. And it's cold out again, so I thought I would update battery choices and prices for this year.

Although this thread is directed to the ML350, the fact is that most Mercedes and BMW and Porsche and Jaguar (but -- warning -- not all) use this H8 battery, so this is applicable to anyone who has a car that takes this size battery (which you can check on most of the websites I give you below).

The method is the same. And any good AGM Group 49 or H8 or L5 battery is going to do the trick. All three descriptors specify the exact same size battery case; just different vendors put one of those three descriptors front and center. It is the exact same size battery. Do not worry that one is not the other. It is. 49/H8/L5. Same thing.

The best value out there is the WalMart Everstart Platinum Size H8 for $139 everyday price. It's made by Johnson Controls. But it never seems to be available anywhere on the web site (look up "H8 Battery" on the walmart site) or at our local stores. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Platinum-...ttery/40647529 Warning: many WalMart guys have never seen this battery and will try to sell you the regular Everstart in this size. Don't bite. In an ML350, you want the AGM version, which is the Platinum. The regular version is the deal of the century for a regular one of that size, but it isn't an AGM battery, so don't install it in the pax compartment of your ML350. The acid and hydrogen issues make it too dangerous to do so.

If you are in the Midwest, local retailer Rural King has a store-brand Exide AGM L-5/Group 49/H8 battery at an amazing price: $139. But you now can only buy it in a store, so it's only good if you are in the Midwest. http://www.ruralking.com/battery-aut...-agml5-49.html I used to have fantasies about my snooty Long Island Mercedes dealer looking in the battery compartment and seeing a Rural King brand one in there. But they no longer ship this, sadly.

The Sears Die Hard Advanced Gold AGM is selling for a good price, particularly if you want to DIY it. http://www.sears.com/diehard-advance...1&blockType=G1 I have seen it anywhere from $140 to full price, depending upon the discount that day. You want the "Advanced Gold" or "Gold AGM" -- the AGM one -- NOT the regular "gold" one, because that's not AGM and you want an AGM.

That Amazon AC/Delco 49AGM Professional battery (by Johnson Controls) was a great deal when it was selling for $140 delivered. A little less so now that it it is $176, but still better than the dealer... https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-49AGM...words=group+49

The H8-sized Autocraft Platinum AGM battery at Advance Auto Parts is a very nice battery, and is working flawlessly in our ML350 after I installed it myself using the techniques discussed above, two years ago. Right now it is $183, but their prices are all over the place, and there is a discount if you buy it online and then go to the store. That discount right now is 20 percent, so it drops to $155, not including the core charge which they credit right away when you bring the old one back. But it goes up and down, and their discounts vary. Most stores will install it for free, which is a big deal. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...erm=h8+battery Your mileage may vary, but in my experience, the folks at every Advance location I have been to have been super-nice and super-helpful and super-willing, which is unusual in that business, particularly in a national chain. It is so hard to create a consistent service product, because it is so dependent on meticulously-hiring and training the right people.

The H8 Bosch Premium AGM Battery at Pep Boys (looks like an Exide) is a very nice battery as well, and although the $219 list price is stupid (but still cheaper than your dealer), they often have promotions. Right now, $55 off (so $165) and allegedly-free installation, if you order online, but they may try to charge because of the complexity of the installation. If you threaten to go down the road to Advance and have them install theirs for free, they will usually waive the installation charge. https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/838838/01635

So that's the playing field of major national chains with a reputation for good batteries. You should be well-served by any of these, and just be aware that a good battery charger, used before you install the thing if you do so yourself, and a couple of times a year, will make a difference in overall battery life. So will liberal use of anti-corrosion paste or spray before hooking the thing up.

Good luck!!

Last edited by wjcandee; 01-02-2017 at 08:39 PM.
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2008 ML 320 CDI (01-03-2017)
Old 01-03-2017, 10:39 PM
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2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI W164)
Excellent and thank you! I haven't looked yet, but I suspect our 2008 ML still has the original battery and will probably need to be replaced before long. It's a pity the auxiliary battery isn't shown in the video (post No. 7) or maybe I just didn't see it and I also wasn't aware an OBDII Memory Saver Cable could keep all the settings.

Last edited by 2008 ML 320 CDI; 01-03-2017 at 10:51 PM.
Old 01-04-2017, 08:14 PM
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So the auxiliary battery is located in the right front corner of the main battery box, right underneath the location of the positive battery cable.
ml3204me posted a video under 'Auxillary Battery Replacement DIY Video'.
Old 04-01-2017, 02:43 PM
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I replaced the batteries in my '11 ML350 today. The main battery was a group 48, not a group 49 as shown in the video. That makes it easier to replace since the group 48 is shorter and there is more room behind the battery for the hold down plate so it is easier to remove the nuts holding it in place. Also, my aux battery was installed with the terminals on the door side not as shown in the video. The hold down cage would not allow the aux battery to slide out because of the terminals sticking up. The hold down cage is held in place with a 10 mm nut in the middle of the back side of the cage. After the nut is removed, the cage can be bent up enough to wiggle the battery out.
Old 04-01-2017, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JimPurdy
I replaced the batteries in my '11 ML350 today. The main battery was a group 48, not a group 49 as shown in the video. That makes it easier to replace since the group 48 is shorter and there is more room behind the battery for the hold down plate so it is easier to remove the nuts holding it in place. Also, my aux battery was installed with the terminals on the door side not as shown in the video. The hold down cage would not allow the aux battery to slide out because of the terminals sticking up. The hold down cage is held in place with a 10 mm nut in the middle of the back side of the cage. After the nut is removed, the cage can be bent up enough to wiggle the battery out.
Do you have a variation of the ML350? Because every resource I have shows the proper battery for a 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 ML350 as a Group 49 / H8 /L5 battery. The Group 48 will fit in there, because it's smaller, but the MB web site has the current battery for a 2011 ML350 as being 005-541-10-01. That's a Group 49 battery.

Anyway, you should be fine, but that's interesting.
Old 04-01-2017, 03:50 PM
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I know the "proper" battery is supposed to be a group 49 but mine came from the factory with a group 48 and a hold down plate that would only work with a group 48. This W164 was a late production, special order, rear wheel drive only, delivered in March 2011.
Old 04-01-2017, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JimPurdy
I know the "proper" battery is supposed to be a group 49 but mine came from the factory with a group 48 and a hold down plate that would only work with a group 48. This W164 was a late production, special order, rear wheel drive only, delivered in March 2011.
Thanks. I wasn't clear whether you were suggesting that the 2011 model switched to a Group 48. BMW does this where you can really use either battery in its battery tray, and the issue is whether you want the extra capacity of the Group 49 (i.e. if you are regularly in very cold or very hot conditions; hot because prolonged heat takes a lot out of the battery). If you ever decided that you wanted the Group 49, I'm sure you could go online to MBdirectparts.com and order the typical hold-down plate at a reasonable price. Actually, I'm guessing that many of our members would like to find the part number for your Group 48 hold-down plate, because it's probably something that they would prefer to install if they had the opportunity...

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