Liftgate opens but does not close. What gives?
04-06-2015, 12:33 AM
#1
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2009 MB ML550, 2021 Tesla Model 3 SR+
Liftgate opens but does not close. What gives?
When I bought my 2209 ML550 a few months ago, everything worked fine. This is how the issue progressed since then...
A few weeks later, liftgate opens and closes but I see and hear that it is struggling to close. I hear the whirring noise both ways.
A few months later, liftgate opens but it is really struggling to close. It'll come down halfway through and decides to go back up. I hear the whirring.
Few months later, liftgate opens but it does not close at all. It'll move an inch or so to close but doesn't go any further. I hear whirring. This is the current situation.
What are the some probable causes for this to happen? Hydraulic pump? Fluid? Sensors?
I do not think I have any latch issues since it locks pretty well once I manually close the liftgate.
A few weeks later, liftgate opens and closes but I see and hear that it is struggling to close. I hear the whirring noise both ways.
A few months later, liftgate opens but it is really struggling to close. It'll come down halfway through and decides to go back up. I hear the whirring.
Few months later, liftgate opens but it does not close at all. It'll move an inch or so to close but doesn't go any further. I hear whirring. This is the current situation.
What are the some probable causes for this to happen? Hydraulic pump? Fluid? Sensors?
I do not think I have any latch issues since it locks pretty well once I manually close the liftgate.
05-08-2015, 04:50 PM
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2009 MB ML550, 2021 Tesla Model 3 SR+
So, I went to the dealer and described the problem. The service adviser looked at it and said that the pump is most probably the culprit. He estimated that it'd cost about $1000 in parts, and $1000 in labor to fix it. Expensive.
He also mentioned that another option is to get a rebuilt pump and replace the current one.
Does anybody know of how to get a rebuilt pump, what other parts need to be replaced, and DIY instructions to replace these pumps?
He also mentioned that another option is to get a rebuilt pump and replace the current one.
Does anybody know of how to get a rebuilt pump, what other parts need to be replaced, and DIY instructions to replace these pumps?
07-05-2015, 06:28 PM
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Ml 350 2007
Go to the dealers and tell them to help you reset the latch. Do not say you having issues with the trunk not functional. Tell them you reset the latch every 3 months as its a normal routine for you to do. Cost is about $140 to diagnose and reset. Case solved
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12-01-2015, 11:47 PM
#10
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You can look at the diagram to see other items. Go to their homepage for other info.
12-03-2015, 12:41 PM
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2009 MB ML550, 2021 Tesla Model 3 SR+
New pump discounted here: http://huskerparts.com/2009-mercedes...48002448-item/
You can look at the diagram to see other items. Go to their homepage for other info.
You can look at the diagram to see other items. Go to their homepage for other info.
12-03-2015, 01:07 PM
#13
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By the way, for what it's worth, we had very similar symptoms with ours a year or so ago. In the spirit of "we amateurs don't really know what we're doing", I will tell you what happened: I of course was convinced that it was the motor (or pump or whatever), and thought about just buying one and having my indy fix it, but in the interim another family member brought it to the dealer because she just wanted it fixed. They did the diagnostics, said it was the controller, replaced it and had it back to her within an hour, all nice and clean and working perfectly. I try to have most stuff done at my Indy, because he will never sell me something I don't need, lets me get the parts myself, and has good diagnostic skills, but there is definitely a place for the Stealer in the mix of service providers for this car.
(On the other hand, my Indy did an amazing sleuthing job recently on the E500. I had a rattling/jiggling noise that seemed to happen only when the left front tire was going over bumpy pavement, and seemed to be coming from the left front wheel well. I was thinking that I probably was going to need something replaced up there, and was hoping it wasn't the $$$ Airmatic strut (although I would use Arnott). My indy and his guy told me that they spent at least an hour checking everything there and it was all nice and tight, and then kind of followed everything back to its connection with the transmission and such. In the course of that, they saw that the "bushings" for the transmission shifter had some play in them and deduced that this could be the source of the noise. Sure enough, an inexpensive replacement of two inexpensive parts and -- noise gone! That's why I love my guy: basic shoeleather investigation solved the problem.)
(On the other hand, my Indy did an amazing sleuthing job recently on the E500. I had a rattling/jiggling noise that seemed to happen only when the left front tire was going over bumpy pavement, and seemed to be coming from the left front wheel well. I was thinking that I probably was going to need something replaced up there, and was hoping it wasn't the $$$ Airmatic strut (although I would use Arnott). My indy and his guy told me that they spent at least an hour checking everything there and it was all nice and tight, and then kind of followed everything back to its connection with the transmission and such. In the course of that, they saw that the "bushings" for the transmission shifter had some play in them and deduced that this could be the source of the noise. Sure enough, an inexpensive replacement of two inexpensive parts and -- noise gone! That's why I love my guy: basic shoeleather investigation solved the problem.)
