GL450 hitch reinforcement
#1
GL450 hitch reinforcement
Some people have been looking for information on how to reinforce GL's hitch because its tongue weight is kind of low. I was in that situation before. I think I could share the information I have got and the things I have learned, and hope it would be helpful to others.
First I got some pictures from Can-Am RV (see the first 8 pictures in the attachment). The pictures are for ML350, but it should apply to GL as well.
From the second picture you can see that they welded a tube to existing receiver, then inserted a smaller tub into the welded tube and bolted the two together. The reason that they didn't use one single tube, according to my understanding, is that you can remove it if you need to repair that area of your SUV. Otherwise, welding a single piece to the existing receiver would provide better strength.
I live in Seattle area, and I brought my GL to Torklift Central in Kent (http://torkliftcentral.com/), and showed them the pictures. They made the modification for me but in a bit different way. Please see the next 6 pictures. Their craftsmanship was pretty good.
After the work was done, I emailed Can-Am RV and Andy replied me, and he pointed out a place that was missed. See the comment he made directly on the picture.
Then I studied the pictures I got from Can-Am at the beginning, and I realized that if I ask Torklift Central simply to weld the extra place, the hitch reinforcement part will be very hard to remove, if there is any work need to be done to the bottom of the SUV and the hitch reinforcement is in the way.
So after thinking about it for a while, I think the problem can be fixed in a slightly different way, which would allow easy removal. Please see the last picture. I guess this would address the problem that Andy pointed out for the first version of my hitch reinforcement.
However, eventually my plan changed and I decide not to buy a trailer, so I didn't have any extra work done to the hitch.
I hope all the pictures could be helpful to those who want hitch reinforcement.
First I got some pictures from Can-Am RV (see the first 8 pictures in the attachment). The pictures are for ML350, but it should apply to GL as well.
From the second picture you can see that they welded a tube to existing receiver, then inserted a smaller tub into the welded tube and bolted the two together. The reason that they didn't use one single tube, according to my understanding, is that you can remove it if you need to repair that area of your SUV. Otherwise, welding a single piece to the existing receiver would provide better strength.
I live in Seattle area, and I brought my GL to Torklift Central in Kent (http://torkliftcentral.com/), and showed them the pictures. They made the modification for me but in a bit different way. Please see the next 6 pictures. Their craftsmanship was pretty good.
After the work was done, I emailed Can-Am RV and Andy replied me, and he pointed out a place that was missed. See the comment he made directly on the picture.
Then I studied the pictures I got from Can-Am at the beginning, and I realized that if I ask Torklift Central simply to weld the extra place, the hitch reinforcement part will be very hard to remove, if there is any work need to be done to the bottom of the SUV and the hitch reinforcement is in the way.
So after thinking about it for a while, I think the problem can be fixed in a slightly different way, which would allow easy removal. Please see the last picture. I guess this would address the problem that Andy pointed out for the first version of my hitch reinforcement.
However, eventually my plan changed and I decide not to buy a trailer, so I didn't have any extra work done to the hitch.
I hope all the pictures could be helpful to those who want hitch reinforcement.
#3
#4
Some people have been looking for information on how to reinforce GL's hitch because its tongue weight is kind of low. I was in that situation before. I think I could share the information I have got and the things I have learned, and hope it would be helpful to others.
First I got some pictures from Can-Am RV (see the first 8 pictures in the attachment). The pictures are for ML350, but it should apply to GL as well.
From the second picture you can see that they welded a tube to existing receiver, then inserted a smaller tub into the welded tube and bolted the two together. The reason that they didn't use one single tube, according to my understanding, is that you can remove it if you need to repair that area of your SUV. Otherwise, welding a single piece to the existing receiver would provide better strength.
I live in Seattle area, and I brought my GL to Torklift Central in Kent (http://torkliftcentral.com/), and showed them the pictures. They made the modification for me but in a bit different way. Please see the next 6 pictures. Their craftsmanship was pretty good.
After the work was done, I emailed Can-Am RV and Andy replied me, and he pointed out a place that was missed. See the comment he made directly on the picture.
Then I studied the pictures I got from Can-Am at the beginning, and I realized that if I ask Torklift Central simply to weld the extra place, the hitch reinforcement part will be very hard to remove, if there is any work need to be done to the bottom of the SUV and the hitch reinforcement is in the way.
So after thinking about it for a while, I think the problem can be fixed in a slightly different way, which would allow easy removal. Please see the last picture. I guess this would address the problem that Andy pointed out for the first version of my hitch reinforcement.
However, eventually my plan changed and I decide not to buy a trailer, so I didn't have any extra work done to the hitch.
I hope all the pictures could be helpful to those who want hitch reinforcement.
First I got some pictures from Can-Am RV (see the first 8 pictures in the attachment). The pictures are for ML350, but it should apply to GL as well.
From the second picture you can see that they welded a tube to existing receiver, then inserted a smaller tub into the welded tube and bolted the two together. The reason that they didn't use one single tube, according to my understanding, is that you can remove it if you need to repair that area of your SUV. Otherwise, welding a single piece to the existing receiver would provide better strength.
I live in Seattle area, and I brought my GL to Torklift Central in Kent (http://torkliftcentral.com/), and showed them the pictures. They made the modification for me but in a bit different way. Please see the next 6 pictures. Their craftsmanship was pretty good.
After the work was done, I emailed Can-Am RV and Andy replied me, and he pointed out a place that was missed. See the comment he made directly on the picture.
Then I studied the pictures I got from Can-Am at the beginning, and I realized that if I ask Torklift Central simply to weld the extra place, the hitch reinforcement part will be very hard to remove, if there is any work need to be done to the bottom of the SUV and the hitch reinforcement is in the way.
So after thinking about it for a while, I think the problem can be fixed in a slightly different way, which would allow easy removal. Please see the last picture. I guess this would address the problem that Andy pointed out for the first version of my hitch reinforcement.
However, eventually my plan changed and I decide not to buy a trailer, so I didn't have any extra work done to the hitch.
I hope all the pictures could be helpful to those who want hitch reinforcement.
1) At one end, the brace is welded to the hitch receiver (which is affixed to unibody and hence stationary). At the other end the brace is welded to the axle carrier (which is not affixed to unibody, and hence is NOT stationary -- axle carrier can move independently of unibody). I don't see the point of this reinforcement. The brace should be connected to unibody/frame at both ends.
2) Axle carrier is not designed to handle weight distribution forces and can crack. Repair is expensive and if axle carrier fails during travel it could cause more issues.
3) There are rubber bushings between Axle carrier and unibody to isolate the cabin from road noise. By welding this brace between axle carrier and hitch, you are allowing noise to by pass those bushings and make it into the cabin.
4) You lose a lot of ground clearance.
5) The safety chain loops on the "reinforced" hitch is significantly weaker than the OEM. You better pray you never have a run away trailer. I would not want to rely on those wimpy added-on safety chain loops.
6) Unibody vehicles are designed to crumble upon impact to keep the occupants safe. I am worried that the brace would interfere with that.
7) I would never have this modification done to a gas vehicle. I am worried that if the vehicle is rear ended, the brace would come off and puncture the gas tank.
8) As you pointed out, vehicle repair in the back area becomes cumbersome.
9) I asked the RV shop two simple questions: a) What is the rating of the modified receiver? and b) Will they certify in writing (say in the invoice) that the modified receiver will handle the weight? The effort that they put to not give a clear answer worried me a lot. They kept saying "Our customers have had no problems" which was not reassuring to me.
Last edited by RostamDastan; 08-23-2017 at 09:24 PM.
#5
Great information in your post. Thank you very much.
For the modification done on my hitch, the safety chain hook up piece is original (or stock from MB), but the hook up piece from the pictures Can-Am gave me (where they use a metal ring as the hook up piece) is probably done by them, not original.
I didn't know about axle carrier, the concern you raised on it looks like a real concern. But thankfully I don't need to tow now.
For the modification done on my hitch, the safety chain hook up piece is original (or stock from MB), but the hook up piece from the pictures Can-Am gave me (where they use a metal ring as the hook up piece) is probably done by them, not original.
I didn't know about axle carrier, the concern you raised on it looks like a real concern. But thankfully I don't need to tow now.
I have researched this modification extensively and have found several (potential) problems:
1) At one end, the brace is welded to the hitch receiver (which is affixed to unibody and hence stationary). At the other end the brace is welded to the axle carrier (which is not affixed to unibody, and hence is NOT stationary -- axle carrier can move independently of unibody). I don't see the point of this reinforcement. The brace should be connected to unibody/frame at both ends.
2) Axle carrier is not designed to handle weight distribution forces and can crack. Repair is expensive and if axle carrier fails during travel it could cause more issues.
3) There are rubber bushings between Axle carrier and unibody to isolate the cabin from road noise. By welding this brace between axle carrier and hitch, you are allowing noise to by pass those bushings and make it into the cabin.
4) You lose a lot of ground clearance.
5) The safety chain loops on the "reinforced" hitch is significantly weaker than the OEM. You better pray you never have a run away trailer. I would not want to rely on those wimpy added-on safety chain loops.
6) Unibody vehicles are designed to crumble upon impact to keep the occupants safe. I am worried that the brace would interfere with that.
7) I would never have this modification done to a gas vehicle. I am worried that if the vehicle is rear ended, the brace would come off and puncture the gas tank.
8) As you pointed out, vehicle repair in the back area becomes cumbersome.
9) I asked the RV shop two simple questions: a) What is the rating of the modified receiver? and b) Will they certify in writing (say in the invoice) that the modified receiver will handle the weight? The effort that they put to not give a clear answer worried me a lot. They kept saying "Our customers have had no problems" which was not reassuring to me.
1) At one end, the brace is welded to the hitch receiver (which is affixed to unibody and hence stationary). At the other end the brace is welded to the axle carrier (which is not affixed to unibody, and hence is NOT stationary -- axle carrier can move independently of unibody). I don't see the point of this reinforcement. The brace should be connected to unibody/frame at both ends.
2) Axle carrier is not designed to handle weight distribution forces and can crack. Repair is expensive and if axle carrier fails during travel it could cause more issues.
3) There are rubber bushings between Axle carrier and unibody to isolate the cabin from road noise. By welding this brace between axle carrier and hitch, you are allowing noise to by pass those bushings and make it into the cabin.
4) You lose a lot of ground clearance.
5) The safety chain loops on the "reinforced" hitch is significantly weaker than the OEM. You better pray you never have a run away trailer. I would not want to rely on those wimpy added-on safety chain loops.
6) Unibody vehicles are designed to crumble upon impact to keep the occupants safe. I am worried that the brace would interfere with that.
7) I would never have this modification done to a gas vehicle. I am worried that if the vehicle is rear ended, the brace would come off and puncture the gas tank.
8) As you pointed out, vehicle repair in the back area becomes cumbersome.
9) I asked the RV shop two simple questions: a) What is the rating of the modified receiver? and b) Will they certify in writing (say in the invoice) that the modified receiver will handle the weight? The effort that they put to not give a clear answer worried me a lot. They kept saying "Our customers have had no problems" which was not reassuring to me.
#6
Junior Member
@deeperblue thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. very helpful!
@RostamDastan those sound like valid concerns. I'm about to do the hitch reinforcement on my GL550. did you find a solution? appreciate it!
@RostamDastan those sound like valid concerns. I'm about to do the hitch reinforcement on my GL550. did you find a solution? appreciate it!