2009 Diesel ML320 Tailgate Stopped Working
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2009 ML320 CDI
2009 Diesel ML320 Tailgate Stopped Working
Last week it had the back-SAM fuses replaced after swapping the battery. Continuing on the antics of my ML320, the tailgate has now suddenly stopped working even though it was completely fine, motor whirs but the tailgate is latched shut. Any ideas? I really hope I didn't blow another fuse.
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
There are no fuses in the rear SAM???? What does replacing the battery have to do with the rear SAM? Do you mean the rear cargo area fuse box, and if so, what fuses were replaced?
Please UPDATE YOUR PROFILE in USER CP to include the year and include CDI.
Last edited by Maj. Dundee; Oct 29, 2017 at 02:53 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Ontario
2000 E55 AMG, 2009 ML320 Bluetec
Assuming this is not a rear SAM issue, the rear latch can fail. Mine did exactly the same as what you describe. You can hear it actuator turning, but the gate will not lift. It may also bump a bit, and if it's in the raised position, it will lower and then go back up when it does not latch properly.
This is not a terrible DIY, lots of write ups and fairly straight forward. Found an informative video on Youtube. Removal of the plastic cap on bottom of the tailgate that surround the close/lock buttons is the hardest part I found.
To open manually, you will need to get into the rear cargo area and locate the small plastic interior trim piece located near the bottom of the hatch. Pop that off and you will a small lever that will release the tailgate manually. A word of caution, if the electronic latch is indeed faulty, you may have some issue getting the hatch re-latched and closed again. I had this problem where it would not re-latch as the motor just spun and retracted the locking mechanism. Luckily for me, the ML was in the garage and I relied on another vehicle as a daily driver while I waited for the new latch to arrive (disconnecting the battery).
It may also be your latch plate which could use some adjusting. This requires you to remove the silver plastic trim on the cargo area to access the plate so that the latch can grab and close the tailgate. DIY procedure out there also. In this case, I would mark the current placement of the plate before making any adjustments in the event that this is not your culprit, but the latch actuator motor itself.
From my experience, it sounds like a new latch motor is in order here, but again, I did not have any issues with my rear SAM when I encountered this problem.
This is not a terrible DIY, lots of write ups and fairly straight forward. Found an informative video on Youtube. Removal of the plastic cap on bottom of the tailgate that surround the close/lock buttons is the hardest part I found.
To open manually, you will need to get into the rear cargo area and locate the small plastic interior trim piece located near the bottom of the hatch. Pop that off and you will a small lever that will release the tailgate manually. A word of caution, if the electronic latch is indeed faulty, you may have some issue getting the hatch re-latched and closed again. I had this problem where it would not re-latch as the motor just spun and retracted the locking mechanism. Luckily for me, the ML was in the garage and I relied on another vehicle as a daily driver while I waited for the new latch to arrive (disconnecting the battery).
It may also be your latch plate which could use some adjusting. This requires you to remove the silver plastic trim on the cargo area to access the plate so that the latch can grab and close the tailgate. DIY procedure out there also. In this case, I would mark the current placement of the plate before making any adjustments in the event that this is not your culprit, but the latch actuator motor itself.
From my experience, it sounds like a new latch motor is in order here, but again, I did not have any issues with my rear SAM when I encountered this problem.
