M-Class (W164) Produced 2006-2011: ML280CDI, ML320CDI, ML420CDI, ML350, ML500, ML550

Engine Hiccup

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Old 06-22-2018, 01:27 PM
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Engine Hiccup

Hi There,
Re: 2006 ML500
When engine is warmed up, often not always, when stopped and in idle, engine keeps trying to install and then comes back on within a second or to. If I shift to N, the hiccup stops and engine runs smoothly.
Any insight will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Old 06-23-2018, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by anavabi
Hi There,
Re: 2006 ML500
When engine is warmed up, often not always, when stopped and in idle, engine keeps trying to install and then comes back on within a second or to. If I shift to N, the hiccup stops and engine runs smoothly.
Any insight will be appreciated.
Thanks,
You need to 1. post your vin to your profile and 2. have the car's computer read with a scanner that understands MB codes and post the results of that.
Old 06-23-2018, 03:50 AM
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What does this mean............... engine keeps trying to install ?
Old 06-23-2018, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
What does this mean............... engine keeps trying to install ?
Typo, I meant stalll. Revs slows with some vibration, as if gasping for air or fuel.
Old 06-24-2018, 04:37 AM
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I had the same exact problem with my 500 and believe it or not changing the Trans. filter and fluid corrected the problem.
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Old 06-24-2018, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
I had the same exact problem with my 500 and believe it or not changing the Trans. filter and fluid corrected the problem.
Would you please let me have the instructions for this work.
Also what is a good code reader apart from the Star which is too costly for DIYer.
Thanks
Old 06-24-2018, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by anavabi
Would you please let me have the instructions for this work.
Also what is a good code reader apart from the Star which is too costly for DIYer.
Thanks
Here is the
scanner scanner
you should buy. It will read every and all modules in your veh.

As for changing the trans. filter and fluid, it is not like the old days where you fill the fluid through a fill pipe in the eng. compartment. Almost every manufacturer has eliminated the fill pipe and you now need a hand or pressure pump to inject the fluid upwards into the pan.

If you do not have automotive experience, doing this by yourself could damage your transmission. You decide what you want to do.

Old 06-24-2018, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Here is the scanner you should buy. It will read every and all modules in your veh.

As for changing the trans. filter and fluid, it is not like the old days where you fill the fluid through a fill pipe in the eng. compartment. Almost every manufacturer has eliminated the fill pipe and you now need a hand or pressure pump to inject the fluid upwards into the pan.

If you do not have automotive experience, doing this by yourself could damage your transmission. You decide what you want to do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qe5iryrFzE
Thanks Maj. I'll have to watch it couple of times to see if I can do it without a car lift!
As I'm offered a good deal on an Innova 3160g, would this be an equivalent to the one you recommend?
Thanks
Old 06-24-2018, 01:04 PM
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You asked me for my recommendation and now you want to know about something different. Make your own decision.
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Old 06-24-2018, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by anavabi
Thanks Maj. I'll have to watch it couple of times to see if I can do it without a car lift!
As I'm offered a good deal on an Innova 3160g, would this be an equivalent to the one you recommend?
Thanks
If you have never done this before, take it to a shop and have someone who knows what they are doing do the work. Doing it without a lift is masochistic, and as you can see from the video you need special tools and a proper scanner. Spend a little money and get it done right, or do it wrong, ruin your transmission and that's the end of your car.

I'm out of this thread.
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Old 06-25-2018, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Here is the scanner you should buy. It will read every and all modules in your veh.

As for changing the trans. filter and fluid, it is not like the old days where you fill the fluid through a fill pipe in the eng. compartment. Almost every manufacturer has eliminated the fill pipe and you now need a hand or pressure pump to inject the fluid upwards into the pan.

If you do not have automotive experience, doing this by yourself could damage your transmission. You decide what you want to do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qe5iryrFzE
Just talked to my mechanic and he said because I've never changed the transmission oil, at least since my ownership in 2010, it may cause problem if I change the oil now. So he just wanted to warn me.
Can this be true?
I never changed it because the manual said so!
Old 06-25-2018, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by anavabi


Just talked to my mechanic and he said because I've never changed the transmission oil, at least since my ownership in 2010, it may cause problem if I change the oil now. So he just wanted to warn me.
Can this be true?
I never changed it because the manual said so!
It's BS. It's an old wives tale.
Old 06-25-2018, 02:08 PM
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fair enough. Thanks
Old 06-26-2018, 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by anavabi


Just talked to my mechanic and he said because I've never changed the transmission oil, at least since my ownership in 2010, it may cause problem if I change the oil now. So he just wanted to warn me.
Can this be true?
I never changed it because the manual said so!
So your mechanic says not to change it because you've never changed it? WTF... you're using the wrong mechanic.
Old 06-26-2018, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by flybd5
So your mechanic says not to change it because you've never changed it? WTF... you're using the wrong mechanic.
He says that the worn clutch pack is now relying on metal debris in between discs to generate friction. If the deris is removed by new oil, especially if flushed, the worn out cluch pack will have much less friction.
Old 06-26-2018, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by anavabi
He says that the worn clutch pack is now relying on metal debris in between discs to generate friction. If the deris is removed by new oil, especially if flushed, the worn out cluch pack will have much less friction.
Now you have to make a decision.
Old 06-26-2018, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by anavabi
He says that the worn clutch pack is now relying on metal debris in between discs to generate friction. If the deris is removed by new oil, especially if flushed, the worn out cluch pack will have much less friction.
I wonder how he came to the conclusion the clutch pack is worn out without disassembling the transmission... If what he said were true, you'd have a lot more problems than a "hiccuping" car.
Old 06-26-2018, 01:22 PM
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I can live with the hiccup for now. Thanks for your insights.
Old 06-26-2018, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by anavabi
I can live with the hiccup for now. Thanks for your insights.
If you think you have problems now, wait until the entire tranny goes because you didn't service it.
Old 06-26-2018, 01:40 PM
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You're making me nervous! I'll have to think about it harder.
Old 06-26-2018, 01:49 PM
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So I just checked with the Service at the local MB, he confirmed that for older model it's best to leave the transmission oil as is, for the same reasons.
Go figure!
Old 06-26-2018, 05:07 PM
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Probably because the sump pan bolts often snap when you try to remove them.
Old 06-27-2018, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by anavabi
So I just checked with the Service at the local MB, he confirmed that for older model it's best to leave the transmission oil as is, for the same reasons.
Go figure!
The service schedule for your car says the transmission fluid must be changed ONCE at 39,000 miles. Do you have a record of it ever having been done?
Old 06-27-2018, 07:38 AM
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For sure it hasn't been done.
So why the manual doesn't reflect that?
Old 06-27-2018, 03:28 PM
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Because the owner's manual and the service schedule manual are two different books. You should have both.


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