MB350 long cranking
10-12-2022, 04:01 PM
#1
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2011 R350L CDI & 2006 ML350
MB350 long cranking
Hi!
I have bought myself a 'fixer upper' 2006 ML350.
Couple of problems with it, one of them rust, but the main reason I want to hear your advice on - why my car cranks so slowly.
I get in the car, insert the key, and then I can either wait on second position or crank it immediately, it will take its time to crank up. It isn't the same problem as others, that hard cranking is only first time in the day. With mine it happens all the time, no matter what time intervals between ignitions.
What could it be?
Fuel filter/pump?
Starter motor going out?
Mass air flow sensor?
Spark plugs?
Bad battery?
Could it be related to P0410 - secondary air pump failure?
When car turns on it runs smoothly and there isn't any disturbances in idling.
If someone have had this problem - please help out a fellow MB lover.. thanks in advance!
I have bought myself a 'fixer upper' 2006 ML350.
Couple of problems with it, one of them rust, but the main reason I want to hear your advice on - why my car cranks so slowly.
I get in the car, insert the key, and then I can either wait on second position or crank it immediately, it will take its time to crank up. It isn't the same problem as others, that hard cranking is only first time in the day. With mine it happens all the time, no matter what time intervals between ignitions.
What could it be?
Fuel filter/pump?
Starter motor going out?
Mass air flow sensor?
Spark plugs?
Bad battery?
Could it be related to P0410 - secondary air pump failure?
When car turns on it runs smoothly and there isn't any disturbances in idling.
If someone have had this problem - please help out a fellow MB lover.. thanks in advance!
10-13-2022, 04:44 PM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
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2009 SL63, 2009 ML550 4Matic
I literally had this same problem yesterday on my 2009 ML550. Slow cranking and wouldn't start. I've been working on replacing the transfer case chain so I thought maybe I killed the battery leaving it on and in neutral.
I charged the battery for 4 hours, same problem. Went and got a new AGM battery ($240 at Advance Auto), same problem.
Finally I got frustrated and just stood on it for about 15-20 seconds and it turned over, a puff of smoke came out the back so I think in my case it was just flooded really bad.
I also suspect my starter is on the way out because previous when I would change the battery it would be like night and day in terms of how fast the motor spins, but that's a job I really don't feel like doing. It's very hard to change the starter on these without removing the exhaust pipe on the passenger side, at least with the 5.5L engine.
Changing the battery on these is no bargain either, but way easier than trying to do the starter. I had to cut the carpeting the first time to get at mine, but if yours is that old it's likely on its' 3rd or 4th battery already at least.
If your battery is more than 3 years old I would start there. The last time I changed the battery it was like night and day how fast the engine spun while starting. Just move the passenger seat all the way forward and tilt it up, and it should be right under there.
I charged the battery for 4 hours, same problem. Went and got a new AGM battery ($240 at Advance Auto), same problem.
Finally I got frustrated and just stood on it for about 15-20 seconds and it turned over, a puff of smoke came out the back so I think in my case it was just flooded really bad.
I also suspect my starter is on the way out because previous when I would change the battery it would be like night and day in terms of how fast the motor spins, but that's a job I really don't feel like doing. It's very hard to change the starter on these without removing the exhaust pipe on the passenger side, at least with the 5.5L engine.
Changing the battery on these is no bargain either, but way easier than trying to do the starter. I had to cut the carpeting the first time to get at mine, but if yours is that old it's likely on its' 3rd or 4th battery already at least.
If your battery is more than 3 years old I would start there. The last time I changed the battery it was like night and day how fast the engine spun while starting. Just move the passenger seat all the way forward and tilt it up, and it should be right under there.
11-10-2022, 10:22 PM
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2006 ML350
Great feedback. I’m having similar issues on an 06 ML350 3.5L V6 80k miles.
Let us know what happens.
Couple other issues over encountered recently:
I recently purchased a used 2006 ML350 3.5L V6 SUV 80k miles and have had some immediate issues unfortunately.
1. My key fob starts the car but the fob buttons will only lock/unlock right after the car is shut off for ~15 seconds until the vehicle goes to ‘sleep’ (after that the fob won’t lock/unlock even though the red light lights up when a button is clicked). I put new batteries in the fob and even bought a replacement fob from the dealer but still having the same issue. Anyone else have this issue? Could it be something with the EIS (poor signal…but only after the car fully shuts down / goes to sleep)?
2. Takes unusually long to start up the vehicle when turning the key. I hooked up directly to the battery under the passenger seat which tested fine. But then had the positive/negative ‘battery’ hookup under the hood checked which ‘failed’… could it be an issue with a wire that connects/signals between actual battery (under the seat) and the signal received under the hood? Thoughts?
3. Difficult to open the doors with emergency cut key. Need to jiggle quite a bit for it to pop/unlock. Guessing it’s something with the Locking mechanism…
4. Also had CEL pop up with code P0410 secondary air injection system, P2767 input turbine speed sensor circuit no signal.
LC
Let us know what happens.
Couple other issues over encountered recently:
I recently purchased a used 2006 ML350 3.5L V6 SUV 80k miles and have had some immediate issues unfortunately.
1. My key fob starts the car but the fob buttons will only lock/unlock right after the car is shut off for ~15 seconds until the vehicle goes to ‘sleep’ (after that the fob won’t lock/unlock even though the red light lights up when a button is clicked). I put new batteries in the fob and even bought a replacement fob from the dealer but still having the same issue. Anyone else have this issue? Could it be something with the EIS (poor signal…but only after the car fully shuts down / goes to sleep)?
2. Takes unusually long to start up the vehicle when turning the key. I hooked up directly to the battery under the passenger seat which tested fine. But then had the positive/negative ‘battery’ hookup under the hood checked which ‘failed’… could it be an issue with a wire that connects/signals between actual battery (under the seat) and the signal received under the hood? Thoughts?
3. Difficult to open the doors with emergency cut key. Need to jiggle quite a bit for it to pop/unlock. Guessing it’s something with the Locking mechanism…
4. Also had CEL pop up with code P0410 secondary air injection system, P2767 input turbine speed sensor circuit no signal.
LC
11-11-2022, 05:25 AM
#4
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2011 R350L CDI & 2006 ML350
I literally had this same problem yesterday on my 2009 ML550. Slow cranking and wouldn't start. I've been working on replacing the transfer case chain so I thought maybe I killed the battery leaving it on and in neutral.
I charged the battery for 4 hours, same problem. Went and got a new AGM battery ($240 at Advance Auto), same problem.
Finally I got frustrated and just stood on it for about 15-20 seconds and it turned over, a puff of smoke came out the back so I think in my case it was just flooded really bad.
I also suspect my starter is on the way out because previous when I would change the battery it would be like night and day in terms of how fast the motor spins, but that's a job I really don't feel like doing. It's very hard to change the starter on these without removing the exhaust pipe on the passenger side, at least with the 5.5L engine.
Changing the battery on these is no bargain either, but way easier than trying to do the starter. I had to cut the carpeting the first time to get at mine, but if yours is that old it's likely on its' 3rd or 4th battery already at least.
If your battery is more than 3 years old I would start there. The last time I changed the battery it was like night and day how fast the engine spun while starting. Just move the passenger seat all the way forward and tilt it up, and it should be right under there.
I charged the battery for 4 hours, same problem. Went and got a new AGM battery ($240 at Advance Auto), same problem.
Finally I got frustrated and just stood on it for about 15-20 seconds and it turned over, a puff of smoke came out the back so I think in my case it was just flooded really bad.
I also suspect my starter is on the way out because previous when I would change the battery it would be like night and day in terms of how fast the motor spins, but that's a job I really don't feel like doing. It's very hard to change the starter on these without removing the exhaust pipe on the passenger side, at least with the 5.5L engine.
Changing the battery on these is no bargain either, but way easier than trying to do the starter. I had to cut the carpeting the first time to get at mine, but if yours is that old it's likely on its' 3rd or 4th battery already at least.
If your battery is more than 3 years old I would start there. The last time I changed the battery it was like night and day how fast the engine spun while starting. Just move the passenger seat all the way forward and tilt it up, and it should be right under there.
I just changed the battery to Bosch AGM. No difference.
i have noticed though, if I put in key and turn it to position 2, wait 3 sec and then crank it, it will turn on much faster than just turning the key all in once turn.
11-11-2022, 05:26 AM
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2011 R350L CDI & 2006 ML350
Great feedback. I’m having similar issues on an 06 ML350 3.5L V6 80k miles.
Let us know what happens.
Couple other issues over encountered recently:
I recently purchased a used 2006 ML350 3.5L V6 SUV 80k miles and have had some immediate issues unfortunately.
1. My key fob starts the car but the fob buttons will only lock/unlock right after the car is shut off for ~15 seconds until the vehicle goes to ‘sleep’ (after that the fob won’t lock/unlock even though the red light lights up when a button is clicked). I put new batteries in the fob and even bought a replacement fob from the dealer but still having the same issue. Anyone else have this issue? Could it be something with the EIS (poor signal…but only after the car fully shuts down / goes to sleep)?
2. Takes unusually long to start up the vehicle when turning the key. I hooked up directly to the battery under the passenger seat which tested fine. But then had the positive/negative ‘battery’ hookup under the hood checked which ‘failed’… could it be an issue with a wire that connects/signals between actual battery (under the seat) and the signal received under the hood? Thoughts?
3. Difficult to open the doors with emergency cut key. Need to jiggle quite a bit for it to pop/unlock. Guessing it’s something with the Locking mechanism…
4. Also had CEL pop up with code P0410 secondary air injection system, P2767 input turbine speed sensor circuit no signal.
LC
Let us know what happens.
Couple other issues over encountered recently:
I recently purchased a used 2006 ML350 3.5L V6 SUV 80k miles and have had some immediate issues unfortunately.
1. My key fob starts the car but the fob buttons will only lock/unlock right after the car is shut off for ~15 seconds until the vehicle goes to ‘sleep’ (after that the fob won’t lock/unlock even though the red light lights up when a button is clicked). I put new batteries in the fob and even bought a replacement fob from the dealer but still having the same issue. Anyone else have this issue? Could it be something with the EIS (poor signal…but only after the car fully shuts down / goes to sleep)?
2. Takes unusually long to start up the vehicle when turning the key. I hooked up directly to the battery under the passenger seat which tested fine. But then had the positive/negative ‘battery’ hookup under the hood checked which ‘failed’… could it be an issue with a wire that connects/signals between actual battery (under the seat) and the signal received under the hood? Thoughts?
3. Difficult to open the doors with emergency cut key. Need to jiggle quite a bit for it to pop/unlock. Guessing it’s something with the Locking mechanism…
4. Also had CEL pop up with code P0410 secondary air injection system, P2767 input turbine speed sensor circuit no signal.
LC
From these symptoms I also have the P0410 Secondary air problem in both banks. Could it be linked to slow cranking?
11-11-2022, 07:33 AM
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2007 ML500
This sounds more like a fueling issue. Either you have a leak, shot regulator valve or the fuel pump itself
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