Alternator replacement on 2008 ML 320 CDI



OEM alternator: 180 Amp Valeo; 7 groove pulley; Part No. A 642 154 04 02
Replacement alternator: 220 Amp; 8 groove pulley; No-name brand on eBay for $193.00 including tax; Looks identical to Bosch 220 Amp that is also OEM on the W164
I bought this new alternator on eBay. I was a little sceptical about it before it arrived. Having received and examined it, I'm very impressed with its apparent quality. It looks exactly like the 220 Amp Bosch alternator which is also an OEM alternator on the W164. I've had this new alternator installed in my vehicle for a week now and it works perfectly.
To replace the alternator:
1. The battery is located beneath the front passenger seat (on the right). Move the seat as far forwards and upwards as possible to access the battery below more easily.
2. Disconnect the lead from the negative battery terminal.
3. Slacken the serpentine belt and move the belt off of the alternator pulley.
4. The old alternator was removed from the top, but the bottom 2 holding-down bolts on the alternator, and the plastic electrical connection were removed from underneath the vehicle. For that, remove the plastic covers on the underside of the engine bay.
5. From the top and above the alternator, remove the air duct to the RH air filter housing, remove the RH air filter housing (not absolutely required, but makes things easier); disconnect the joint on the air duct between the intercooler and the intake manifold; disconnect the electrical connector from the auxiliary water pump(?) and remove its holding-down bolt on the chassis - no need to take any water hoses off, simply move the line out of the way. This provides the room required for the alternator to come out through the top.
6. Pull the black plastic cap straight off the red positive lead connector on the alternator. Disconnect the red positive and the earth leads from the alternator.
7. Hold the alternator and remove the last holding-down bolt.
8. The alternator is now free and can be brought out through the space created in step 5.
9. Installation is the reverse of the removal. On the new alternator, use the 7 grooves closest to the alternator body.
[img alt="(1) Alternator
(2) Belt Tensioner"]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbworld.org-vbulletin/731x688/01_16_09_18_b_serpentine_belt_layout_c0ad27a00db18 f5a718475f69a02a0cc7f08b1e4.png[/img]
(1) Alternator (2) Belt Tensioner
Turn anticlockwise on belt tensioner to release tension in serpentine belt; 17 mm socket
Front view of alternator before removal; 7 groove serpentine belt
View of alternator as seen from below; Two holding-down bolts accessible from here
Disconnect plastic electrical connector from alternator
View of inside of electrical connector
View of alternator from the top; Disconnect lines to be moved to the side to make room for the alternator to pass through
Loosen inline water pump from chassis in order to move out of the way
RH air filter box removed to improve access to alternator
Remove main power lead from alternator; Top holding-down bolts
Remove main power lead from alternator
Alternator coming out through the open space created in previous steps
New 220 Amp Bosch-look-alike alternator on the left; OEM Valeo 180 Amp alternator on the right
The new alternator comes with an 8 groove pulley; The original alternator comes with a 7 groove pulley; On the new alternator, use the 7 grooves closest to the alternator body for perfect belt alignment
New alternator on the right; Old alternator on the left; The electrical connectors are in different locations on the new alternator, but they work perfectly
New alternator almost in position
New alternator bought on eBay



Last edited by SiRudBi; Sep 6, 2025 at 10:34 AM.



7 rib serpentine belt on new 8 groove pulley
Photo showing items that obstruct removal of the alternator through the top of the engine bay. The electrical harness can easily be pushed aside - it does not require to be disconnected.





