Bearing replacement on front differential W164



First thing is to drain the oil from the differential. It holds approximately 1100 ml.
1:
2:
3:
4:
Remove the 6 bolts on the coupling between the prop shaft and the flange on the front differential
Remove the breather from the differential housing
The end of the right hand side CV Drive Shaft extends deep into the differential housing
The end of the right hand side CV Drive Shaft that extends into the differential housing; The differential is removed in this image
Right hand side CV Drive Shaft pulled outwards to free it from the differential
The left hand side CV Drive Shaft free from the differential; The differential is removed in this image
Left hand side CV Drive Shaft pulled outwards to free it from the differential
Differential removed
I will post some photos of changing out the bearings in the differential shortly.
Last edited by SiRudBi; Oct 18, 2025 at 03:02 PM.



You can't get replacement bearings from Mercedes!
This kit fits and works 100% perfectly. There is no difference between this kit and the OEM parts that were removed and replaced.
All bearings, oil seals and crush washer come with the kit.
Kit received.
Kit unboxed.
I have bearing OD & ID dimensions and bearing numbers. If anyone needs it, I can post more information.



E10 socket
16 mm spanner
Tap very lightly to split housing segments apart.
The 2 spacers have different thicknesses; Mark each spacer so it can be placed back to the side it came from.



Crown wheel with carrier bearings removed from differential housing
Preparing bearing for removal in hydraulic press
10 ton hydraulic press to press bearing off; I'm sure an 8, or even a 6 ton press will also get the job done;
... and remove the bearing on the other side too
Pressing on a new bearing
... and pressing on a new bearing on the other side too



The nut on the pinion that holds the flange back is EXTREMELY tight and difficult to remove!!!
Flange on differential that connects to prop shaft
Mark the relation of the pinion shaft to the retaining nut to the flange before removing the nut. That way you can very easily get the assembly back to the original position.
Taking a measurement for how much the pinion top protrudes from the top of the nut. Again, this is to be able to easily get the assembly to the original position. In this case the measurement is 1.44 mm.
The nut is removed in this image. It was EXTREMELY tight! Loosening this nut and then tightening it again, was the most difficult part of this whole operation. Be prepared for this!
Flange removed. Oil seal exposed.
Oil seal removed; Pinion shaft ready to be pressed down and out of the pinion housing.
Pinion shaft removed. The 2 new bearings are on the right. The crush washer that sits on the shaft and between the 2 bearing, is not in this image.
The new crush washer on the left is 22.56 mm high compared to 21.42 mm for the old one which is on the right.
Tools to remove the outer bearing race from the pinion housing at the crown wheel end.
Outer bearing race, at the crown wheel end of the pinion housing, removed.
Preparing to press out the outer bearing race at the flange end of the pinion housing.
Pressing out the outer bearing race at the flange end of the pinion housing.
Tools used in the set-up to press out the outer bearing race at the flange end of the pinion housing.
Preparing to press the bearing off from the pinion shaft.
Pressing the bearing off.
Preparing to press on the new bearing.
Pressing on the new bearing.
The new bearing at the bottom in the image, is fully installed. The bearing at the top end in this image is loose, and will be pressed on later. It is only there to illustrate the assembly inside the pinion housing.
The pinion shaft going back into the housing.
Pressing the bearing at the flange end onto the pinion shaft.
Pinion shaft with bearings, oil seal, flange and nut re-installed. The marks previously made to record the relation of the 3 parts, are aligned, and the nut is tightened the depth that was also recorded before disassembly.
Trending Topics



The needle roller bearing in the half axle housing on the right hand side of the differential, needs to be removed and replaced.
Removing the old oil seal.
Oil seal removed; The needle roller bearing is up next to be removed.
There's no edge on the needle roller bearing to push on to press it out. Break out the cage that holds the needles in place.
The needle cage and needle rollers have been removed. Now there's a 'lip' to work against to remove the bearing outer race.
Installing the new needle roller bearing.
A new oil seal pressed into place.
All bearings, oils seals and crush washer have now been replaced. The differential can be put back together.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG



The crown wheel, spacers on the outside of the carrier bearings, and oil seal are in place. The mating surfaces of the segments have been lined with a gasket maker.
All 3 housing segments put together and a few bolts put in finger tight for proper alignment.
Checking that the gap between segments is closed all the way around.
Ready to put in the rest of the bolts and to tighten evenly and in a criss-cross fashion.
This is the gasket maker I used and it works well.
This is where I stop with this post unless I missed some detail. If so, let me know - I have many more photos!



It would be interesting to know if rebuilding these differentials has already peaked. Mine is one of the earliest W164 so perhaps there'll be many more to rebuild. Having said that though, the bearings in my differential didn't need to be replaced! The front left wheel bearing was at fault, even though the whine was coming form right of centre. Anyway, the diff is done now.
I did actually want to at least remove the gasket sealant that peeled out from the housing joints, but never got to that!





