MASTER FAULT LIST – W164 ML320 CDI

⚡ 1. Undervoltage / Power Supply Faults

1. C001 – Undervoltage (Historic)
2. 9036 – Undervoltage detected (<9.5V after 5 sec) (Historic)
3. 900E – Local undervoltage at circuit 30 (<9V) (Historic)
4. 9010 – Rear-end door closing control module detected undervoltage (Historic)

🚪 2. Rear Hatch / Rear SAM / Central Locking

1. 9012 – Rear-end door open/close switch contact sticking or coding issue (Historic)
2. 9014 – S85/5 Left interior CL/ZV switch sticking or short to ground (Historic)
3. 9500 – Rear-end door control module button stuck in switched condition (Historic)
4. 9095 – Circuit 15R relay short to positive (Historic)
5. 91CF – Rear-end door ambient lamp short to positive or open circuit (Current & Historic)

💨 3. HVAC / LIN Bus Faults

1. 9401 – M2/6 Left blending air flap actuator LIN bus communication error (Historic)
2. 9403 – M2/12 Rear shutoff flap motor LIN bus communication error (Historic)
3. 9503 – M2/21 Rear air distribution flap motor LIN bus communication error (Historic)
4. 910E – Center rear interior temperature sensor open circuit (Historic)

🌐 4. CAN Bus Communication Faults

1. 9705 – CAN communication fault with N72/2 (RCP control module) (Historic)
2. 9707 – CAN communication fault with N69/1 (Left front door control unit) (Historic)
3. 9708 – CAN communication fault with N69/2 (Right front door control unit) (Historic)
4. 9325 – Communication fault with multifunction steering wheel (Historic)

🛑 5. Airbag / SRS (IMPORTANT – ACTIVE)

1. 9250 – Front passenger buckle ETR squib resistance too high
   (Current AND Historic)

⚠️ This is the only fault currently active and safety-related.

❄ 6. A/C

1. 9006 – AC compressor short circuit (Historic)

🎵 7. Multimedia

1. D242 – CD/DVD drive general read error (Historic)

🌞 8. Sunroof

1. 9600 – Tilting/sliding roof not normalized (Historic)

This is what my new ICarsoft scanner pulled from my 08 ML320 CDI

 

Clear them and report back😉

There's nothing in that list that's particularly concerning tbh.

 

I replaced the MAF sensors a while ago and never took it to MB to reset the values to those and new air filters. I found where to do that on the scanner I got. CEL is now off. Cleared the rest of them aside from the SRS.

This is what I am left with after clearing them. I had ChatGpt make a list from screenshots. I am trying to narrow down the seatbelt part that is giving me the SRS code. It happened when my son was moving the seat. It’s constant no flicker. I have disconnected the battery unplugged everything and plugged it back in and tried to clear the code but it won’t clear.

The rear SAM issue with the lift gate happened when I had the windows tinted and they got water in there. It has dried out and stopped randomly trying to open. It actually opened once going down the highway. Now if I had a mini-gun mounted in the back I would appreciate that feature. 🤣

✅ SRS / Airbag System

🔴 9250 – Current & Historic



Description:

Resistance value in ignition circuit containing component R46/1 (Front Passenger Buckle ETR Squib) is too high.



👉 This is your passenger seat belt buckle pretensioner circuit issue.



⚠️ Additional SRS-Related Status Data

S68/1 – Driver Seat Belt Buckle

Status: NOT CONNECTED



S68/2 – Front Passenger Seat Belt Buckle

Status: NOT CONNECTED



(These align with the buckle circuit fault.)



⚡ SAM / Electrical Faults



🟡 9095 – Historic



Output of component F4kR (Circuit 15R Relay) has short circuit to positive.



(Historic only – not currently active.)



🔴 91CF – Current & Historic



Component E40/1 (Rear-end Door Ambient Lamp)

Line has short circuit to positive or open circuit.



👉 This is a rear door ambient light wiring or bulb issue.



📋 Additional Status Screens



External Faults


Status: NO


Passenger Seat

Status: NOT ASSIGNED


Child Seat Detection Data

• Rearward-facing child seat detected: 67.2
• Forward-facing child seat detected: 4.39
• Child seat incorrectly positioned: 15.36
• Only one resonator detected at child seat: 0.53

 

That's betterer 👍

The tailgate light issue is going to either be a damaged wire or corrosion in the bulb holder. Start with the bulb/holder. Depending on the configuration of your car it could be the roof light above the trunk area or in the hatch itself.

The SRS bits are probably wiring damage under the seat of around the buckle wiring connectors either from vigorous valeting or a build up of ****e that caused a rumpus when the seat got moved. Being the buckles, it could also be coffee/soda related🤔

The circuit relay may well be in one of the SAMs, but something to investigate.

Can't comment on the child seat stuff as a) I don't have child seats, and b) even if I did, I don't have a child to put in them😎

 

Re the rear SAM water ingress, it may actually be worth removing it, taking the case off and give it a blast with electrical contact cleaner and leave to air dry before refitting. Likewise the plugs.

 

Congratulations by the way, you've already paid for the code reader by pulling and cleaning all those codes🎉

 

You are definitely correct with the savings. Thank you for your assistance along the way. I will figure out the SRS thing this weekend.

 

Disconnect the battery/batteries if you start prodding and poking around the airbag related connectors. Unbolt the seats first... It's easier if you can still move them with the switches🤦

You may find that the seats have been out at some point and a plug or two have either been smashed or not fitted correctly or a wire pinched. Good luck👍

 

I had taken the seat out myself but I honestly don’t remember why I did that. 🤣

I am a retired Firefighter/Medic and have seen firsthand another firefighter get smoked by an airbag. We always cut the battery cable as soon as we arrive on scene. Turns out the guy had installed a second battery in the trunk to power a sound system. The bass definitely hit hard. 🤣

 

All I wanna do is tick, tick, BOOM🤯

Sounds like you may have already identified the culprit for your issue then🤦

 

Do you know where to get a key at a decent price? I have only one key and my ignition system doesn’t start every time I turn it to the start position. I have to pull the key out and put it back in and then it will start. Sometimes I have to do this a couple of times. Apparently this is yet another common issue with MB. It sounds like down the road I will be replacing the EIS.

 

Once you've turned to crank once, you need to go back to off before it will let you crank again. If that's your issue🤔

New keys are MB only. Same for the EIS.

Alternative is buy a wrecked car and swap the EIS, ISM, conductor plate and ECM into yours. It all has to come from one car or it won't work.

 

I have unhooked the battery and plan to unplug each electrical connection and use contact cleaner on them then reconnect them. I plan on shooting some down in the seatbelt buckle itself. Any advice for or against this? If I can’t clear the code after that I will pull the entire seat out and look for a fracture in the wires.

 

After all of that it is the squib. I will order a new one and replace it then hopefully the code clears.

 

A 251 860 04 69 this is the part number on the back of the bracket. I have been looking on EBay and the app says that other numbers will fit my vehicle. What donor vehicles are safe to take or part numbers for my vehicle?

 

I found the exact part on EBay that has been tested and comes with a guarantee for $45. Much better than what MB wants for it. The scanner has paid for itself multiple times over in less than a week.

 

Job well jobbed👍

 

I installed the seatbelt buckle I got off of EBay for $45. Ran the codes came back as historic only. Cleared them and no more codes thrown. So satisfying having the SRS light no longer blaring in my face.