Hid kit- no errors w/ video
#101
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Earth
Posts: 2,210
Received 449 Likes
on
345 Posts
2015 C300 4Matic Sport
same problem
I just installed a Morimoto H7 HID kit + Canbus harness into my 2011 C300 and I am experiencing some DRL, eyelid led flicker and passenger side hid ignition delay. I was under the impression that this kit was solid for W204's.
Here is a video, Can anyone tell me what is going on?
The first attempt is with DRL's off in the dash option. The second attempt (00:55) is with DRL's on.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5M9...amM/edit?pli=1
Here is a video, Can anyone tell me what is going on?
The first attempt is with DRL's off in the dash option. The second attempt (00:55) is with DRL's on.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5M9...amM/edit?pli=1
#102
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
10 Posts
E350 4-Matic, GLE350, Harley Davidson Electra Glide
I installed HIDs on my 2014 ml350 and the problems are driving me crazy. I have cambus ballasts bot with and withour error correctors. Sometimes I can go for several weeks without any issues with misfiring or flicker but if there is a temp change or drop, I get the problem. I have tried adding the correctors without success. I also checked all the connections and they appear to be good. I ordered two ballasts form different company, one came in dead and the other worked ok but hat one is now giving me some issues on colder mornings (inthe 50's) I am just so frustrated because I wanted them OEM but no dealers seemed to have them on the cars. The guy who installed them initially said that he was getting variations on the voltage driving the lights and there were differences between the sides. I read that the car "learns" the lighting voltage but if that is the case, why would they be problem free last night and then give me issues in the morning?
#103
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
13 ml 350 palladium silver, 14 grand cherokee overland hemi
i tried a different brand
hey guys i just wanted to add to this that i put xenon depot with Phillips bulbs and their cancelers/harness in my jeep which i believe has the same canbus as our ml's... they were flawless and looked awesome..... i sold my old kit... they are a little pricey so im hesitant if all of these kits are having so much trouble
#104
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
10 Posts
E350 4-Matic, GLE350, Harley Davidson Electra Glide
I think my issue may have been with the connections to the h7 plug where the wires go to the ballast. I ordered a set of bulbs with a plug not just little connectors, and I have been told by the company that the canbus ballast should also work so when they arrive I will give them a try. If they don't based on your experience I may try the xenon depot kit you picked up
#106
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
10 Posts
E350 4-Matic, GLE350, Harley Davidson Electra Glide
I think that is the issue. I am awaiting 5k bulbs with real connectors rather than the spade terminals. I bet I got some oxidation or movement on the spade connectors and that was enough to do me in. What was the website for the xenon depot, I couldn't find it
#108
Amazon.com: 55w Kensun HID Xenon Conversion Kit "All Bulb Sizes and Colors" with Digital Ballasts - H7 - 6000k: Automotive
. These had flickering issues, and I thought about ordering the Error Cancellors for them (
Amazon.com: HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand): Automotive
), but I didn't even bother to order those because I wasn't sure if they would work or not. I currently have Philips Diamond Vision 5000k H7 bulbs both in the high beam and low beam installed. They look whiter and a tad brighter. The only issue is they are just as dim as the stock OEM halogen bulbs. Any updates on your xenondepot kits? I was considering this http://www.xenondepot.com/H7-HID-Kit...ID-p/xt-h7.htm in 5000K. Let me know, thanks!
Last edited by opasha; 08-06-2014 at 05:48 AM.
#111
Yes. I use this by OPT7:
You will get errors for every kit unless you use a resistor. Thankfully, Kensun makes these resistors harnesses that I used and they work perfectly:
You only need to buy 2 of each (2 hid kits (1 set for high beam 1 set for low beam) 2 resistor harnesses (1 set for high 1 set for low).
I got these anti-flicker cancellors from Kensun for free just in case:
So, to sum it up, you can pretty much use ANY HID kit, but you need the Kensun resistor harness (thankfully this is a full plug and play harness so you don't have to mess up or dig into any original wires). However, we used the original ML wires from the halogen OEM setup because this plugs directly into the resistor harness input (there is one side of the harness that is strictly input only)- this way the car gets tricked into thinking that the original ML wire is plugged in. If you have any questions when you install, just call Kensun - they helped us really easily to install using the resistors because they were confusing at first.
I don't like the Opt 7 quality of the bulbs because 3 of the 6 of them (yes I ordered many kinds because I did a lot of trial and error), had a tiny bit of pigment in the bulbs. If you have ANYTHING inside your bulb, it will not output 100% perfect beams because the pigment will create a tiny shadow/blindspot within the beam. It isn't anything too noticeable or terrible, but that just means check the bulbs and make sure yours are clean/clear as possible on the inside.
This is also why I recommend trying the Kensun kit first:
In my opinion, definitely go with the 5000K setup no matter what anyone says because it produces the best output right after 4300k (oem yellow), and it gives a PURE white xenon light. Trust me...I'm a big aftermarket HID and OEM bi-xenon, LED guy. I know my colors. If you want OEM look, go for the 5000k.
Amazon.com: OPT7® Bolt AC 55w HID Xenon Conversion Kit - H7 (5000K, Bright White) - 2 Year Warranty: Automotive
. You will get errors for every kit unless you use a resistor. Thankfully, Kensun makes these resistors harnesses that I used and they work perfectly:
Amazon.com: Kensun HID Conversion Kit Single Beam Relay Wiring Harness with Anti-Flicker 50W Load Resistor - H7: Automotive
You only need to buy 2 of each (2 hid kits (1 set for high beam 1 set for low beam) 2 resistor harnesses (1 set for high 1 set for low).
I got these anti-flicker cancellors from Kensun for free just in case:
Amazon.com: HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand): Automotive
, but I don't think they are needed because the resistor is also anti-flicker. We had already installed the ant-flicker wire with the HID setup before realizing that we needed a resistor to fix everything so we just left the cancellor installed.So, to sum it up, you can pretty much use ANY HID kit, but you need the Kensun resistor harness (thankfully this is a full plug and play harness so you don't have to mess up or dig into any original wires). However, we used the original ML wires from the halogen OEM setup because this plugs directly into the resistor harness input (there is one side of the harness that is strictly input only)- this way the car gets tricked into thinking that the original ML wire is plugged in. If you have any questions when you install, just call Kensun - they helped us really easily to install using the resistors because they were confusing at first.
I don't like the Opt 7 quality of the bulbs because 3 of the 6 of them (yes I ordered many kinds because I did a lot of trial and error), had a tiny bit of pigment in the bulbs. If you have ANYTHING inside your bulb, it will not output 100% perfect beams because the pigment will create a tiny shadow/blindspot within the beam. It isn't anything too noticeable or terrible, but that just means check the bulbs and make sure yours are clean/clear as possible on the inside.
This is also why I recommend trying the Kensun kit first:
Amazon.com: 55w Kensun HID Xenon Conversion Kit "All Bulb Sizes and Colors" with Digital Ballasts - H7 - 5000k: Automotive
(I had originally used this but sent it back because I had no idea of the resistor harnesses). Their bulb quality might be better and they have Amazon Prime and a phone number. Opt 7 has no phone number so it's hard to contact them unless you just email their sales department.In my opinion, definitely go with the 5000K setup no matter what anyone says because it produces the best output right after 4300k (oem yellow), and it gives a PURE white xenon light. Trust me...I'm a big aftermarket HID and OEM bi-xenon, LED guy. I know my colors. If you want OEM look, go for the 5000k.
#112
Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ML-350, Audi Q7, Ford Taurus
so if you buy the Kensun kit, you would need to buy the "HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand)" right? The Opt7 comes with this and Kensun does not which would have to purchase. I just returned my Opt7 35W and I'm going to get the 55W instead so I would probably go with Kensun kit you mentioned.
55w Kensun HID Xenon Conversion Kit "All Bulb Sizes and Colors" with Digital Ballasts - H7 - 5000k
Kensun HID Conversion Kit Single Beam Relay Wiring Harness with Anti-Flicker 50W Load Resistor - H7
HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand)
2 Pcs H7 HID Xenon Conversion Light Holder Adapter for Mazda 3
Am I ready to do this over again? the bulb was never firmly attached, I still can't find a good solution for bulb attachment
55w Kensun HID Xenon Conversion Kit "All Bulb Sizes and Colors" with Digital Ballasts - H7 - 5000k
Kensun HID Conversion Kit Single Beam Relay Wiring Harness with Anti-Flicker 50W Load Resistor - H7
HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand)
2 Pcs H7 HID Xenon Conversion Light Holder Adapter for Mazda 3
Am I ready to do this over again? the bulb was never firmly attached, I still can't find a good solution for bulb attachment
#113
so if you buy the Kensun kit, you would need to buy the "HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand)" right? The Opt7 comes with this and Kensun does not which would have to purchase. I just returned my Opt7 35W and I'm going to get the 55W instead so I would probably go with Kensun kit you mentioned.
55w Kensun HID Xenon Conversion Kit "All Bulb Sizes and Colors" with Digital Ballasts - H7 - 5000k
Kensun HID Conversion Kit Single Beam Relay Wiring Harness with Anti-Flicker 50W Load Resistor - H7
HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand)
2 Pcs H7 HID Xenon Conversion Light Holder Adapter for Mazda 3
Am I ready to do this over again? the bulb was never firmly attached, I still can't find a good solution for bulb attachment
55w Kensun HID Xenon Conversion Kit "All Bulb Sizes and Colors" with Digital Ballasts - H7 - 5000k
Kensun HID Conversion Kit Single Beam Relay Wiring Harness with Anti-Flicker 50W Load Resistor - H7
HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand)
2 Pcs H7 HID Xenon Conversion Light Holder Adapter for Mazda 3
Am I ready to do this over again? the bulb was never firmly attached, I still can't find a good solution for bulb attachment
Also, you don't need the mazda adapters...They are the exact same but it's MUCH easier just to take the metal piece that holds the mercedes bulb in place and run the hid h7 bulb through it until the metal piece lines up directly behind the black plastic of the bulb. That's what my friend did and it fits perfectly this way without needing adapter. If you can't figure this out, then I guess using those plastic adapters is fine. This is what the mercedes metal piece looks like: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...jL._AA160_.jpg
Also, guys, you can do this on your own. You don't need to remove the bumper at all for the low beams. That's just how stupid mechanics make money off of you. My friend showed me...inside the wheel wheel, there is a plastic cover. Remove the plastic rivet with a plyer and then just push or pull the plastic cover up or down for it to pop right out (I forget which direction)...it's that simple. This gives you complete access to the low beam housing.
Last edited by opasha; 09-11-2014 at 05:56 PM.
#114
Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ML-350, Audi Q7, Ford Taurus
Thanks Opasha, keep us up to date if you experience any flickr issues... according to the thread, most kit starts to flickr after few weeks.. Mine did after about 2 weeks.
I'm going to order the Kensun kit you mentioned above and give it a try
I'm going to order the Kensun kit you mentioned above and give it a try
#115
Last edited by opasha; 09-12-2014 at 12:45 AM.
#117
You are very welcome, buddy. Let me know how it goes. I'll do my best to guide you guys from there, but everything I outlines is pretty straightforward and should work without any issues. If the Kensun lights fail, then definitely order the same Opt7 lights like me, but I think you'll be A ok because of the resistor setup.
#118
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
10 Posts
E350 4-Matic, GLE350, Harley Davidson Electra Glide
I used the HIDRUS kit with the canbus ballast. I had to use an error corrector on the right side because I had one non fire. However, I believe the issue was the connection between the factory H7 connector and the spade connectors that came with the bulbs. I picked up a pair of H7 male connectors and then put on connectors the size of the spade connectors form the lights (they are smaller than the oem ones on the lights) Made a good connection with the male H7 and held them together with zip ties. I haven't removed the right side error corrector because it is working and I really don't want to mess with it. HIDRUS told me I don't need them.
I tried those thin resisters but they ran so hot it melted the plastic cover! This setup up seems to work well. I may take the right side error corrector out of the loop (only a 5 minute job since I Velcro them and the ballasts to the bottom of the headlight housing.
I tried those thin resisters but they ran so hot it melted the plastic cover! This setup up seems to work well. I may take the right side error corrector out of the loop (only a 5 minute job since I Velcro them and the ballasts to the bottom of the headlight housing.
#119
I used the HIDRUS kit with the canbus ballast. I had to use an error corrector on the right side because I had one non fire. However, I believe the issue was the connection between the factory H7 connector and the spade connectors that came with the bulbs. I picked up a pair of H7 male connectors and then put on connectors the size of the spade connectors form the lights (they are smaller than the oem ones on the lights) Made a good connection with the male H7 and held them together with zip ties. I haven't removed the right side error corrector because it is working and I really don't want to mess with it. HIDRUS told me I don't need them.
I tried those thin resisters but they ran so hot it melted the plastic cover! This setup up seems to work well. I may take the right side error corrector out of the loop (only a 5 minute job since I Velcro them and the ballasts to the bottom of the headlight housing.
I tried those thin resisters but they ran so hot it melted the plastic cover! This setup up seems to work well. I may take the right side error corrector out of the loop (only a 5 minute job since I Velcro them and the ballasts to the bottom of the headlight housing.
Everyone else...please post back your results regarding the Kensun resistors. If the Kensun 55W kit gives you issues (through some bad luck), go for the OPT7. My lights are running great; they are powerful like OEM bi-xenons for the lumen output without being obnoxious/troublesome to oncoming traffic. This was my biggest concern and thankfully no issues whatsoever.
#120
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
10 Posts
E350 4-Matic, GLE350, Harley Davidson Electra Glide
My setup was totally plug and play. I found that the spade connectors that came with the lights were narrower than the female connector on the OEM harness. Unfortunately, after about two or three months, they managed to move a little and lose contact. I thought I had a ballast problem or some other problem never thinking it was a simple mechanical connection electrical issue (had a similar problem with a mechanical connection on my motorcycle fuel injection system). To solve that problem I picked up male H7 connectors on ebay and went to radio shack to get some female connectors the same size as the spade connectors on the lights. Connected them to the wire end of the H7 connectors with a mechanical connector and to make sure that the H7 male connector didn't move at all, just put a zip tie around both the OEM connector and the H7male connector. As I said, before I figured out it was a connection issue, I installed an error corrector on the right side since it didn't fire up once. Because every time you take out the dust cap to look inside you manage to move around the wires and that was enough to cause a poor contact. I should have also mentioned that the spade connector were not only a little narrower than the OEM female connector that plugs into the OEM bulb but it is also thinner so the connection is not all that good. My last car had one of those plastic connectors that plugged into the OEM connector behind the headlight but this one had those spade connectors. One issue I did have was getting the metal clip to fit correctly on the back of the HID bulb when it gets seated into the headlight housing. If it looks like it is on backwards it is on correctly. I also picked up a set of clips on ebay which have a slit on the bottom so it makes it easier to put together. Be careful when you put on the cap after you run the wires thru the hole that you don't pull or rotate the wires that are connected to the back of the HID bulb. I found that it is easy to move the clip that holds the light bulb so it can rotate counterclockwise a little and it really screws up the headlight seating in the housing and aim.
#121
My setup was totally plug and play. I found that the spade connectors that came with the lights were narrower than the female connector on the OEM harness. Unfortunately, after about two or three months, they managed to move a little and lose contact. I thought I had a ballast problem or some other problem never thinking it was a simple mechanical connection electrical issue (had a similar problem with a mechanical connection on my motorcycle fuel injection system). To solve that problem I picked up male H7 connectors on ebay and went to radio shack to get some female connectors the same size as the spade connectors on the lights. Connected them to the wire end of the H7 connectors with a mechanical connector and to make sure that the H7 male connector didn't move at all, just put a zip tie around both the OEM connector and the H7male connector. As I said, before I figured out it was a connection issue, I installed an error corrector on the right side since it didn't fire up once. Because every time you take out the dust cap to look inside you manage to move around the wires and that was enough to cause a poor contact. I should have also mentioned that the spade connector were not only a little narrower than the OEM female connector that plugs into the OEM bulb but it is also thinner so the connection is not all that good. My last car had one of those plastic connectors that plugged into the OEM connector behind the headlight but this one had those spade connectors. One issue I did have was getting the metal clip to fit correctly on the back of the HID bulb when it gets seated into the headlight housing. If it looks like it is on backwards it is on correctly. I also picked up a set of clips on ebay which have a slit on the bottom so it makes it easier to put together. Be careful when you put on the cap after you run the wires thru the hole that you don't pull or rotate the wires that are connected to the back of the HID bulb. I found that it is easy to move the clip that holds the light bulb so it can rotate counterclockwise a little and it really screws up the headlight seating in the housing and aim.
#122
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
10 Posts
E350 4-Matic, GLE350, Harley Davidson Electra Glide
I used both of the bulb holders but kept with the original. Due to the individual wires I was able to run them thru the hole so when I added the H7male connector I did it as one piece. With the other end connectors that come with kits that use something like a H11 bulb or a 9006 or similar, that connector is to big to fit thru that square hole on the original H7 OEM clip that holds the bulb. In that case, you have to go with the clip that has the opening. Of course, you can just cut and splice the wires but that just adds another connection to possibly go bad
#123
I used both of the bulb holders but kept with the original. Due to the individual wires I was able to run them thru the hole so when I added the H7male connector I did it as one piece. With the other end connectors that come with kits that use something like a H11 bulb or a 9006 or similar, that connector is to big to fit thru that square hole on the original H7 OEM clip that holds the bulb. In that case, you have to go with the clip that has the opening. Of course, you can just cut and splice the wires but that just adds another connection to possibly go bad
#125
HID is High Intensity Discharge lighting. It is essentially the same light output, but the structure of the lighting is different. HIDs have 2 separate bulbs - one for high beam, one for low beam. Bi-Xenon has only one Xenon bulb used for two functions, high and low beam. A little solenoid-operated shutter lifts when high beam is selected, exposing the entire bulb. That's why, when people such as ourselves don't get the Bi-Xenon, we go for HID kits to match or customize the look of our vehicle.
In my honest opinion, the 5000k 55W look is the best/closest to factory OEM pure white Xenons. The lumen output is amazing. Everyone comments on my mother's ML350 lights all the time now.
In my honest opinion, the 5000k 55W look is the best/closest to factory OEM pure white Xenons. The lumen output is amazing. Everyone comments on my mother's ML350 lights all the time now.