QUESTION BUY VS LEASE 2013 ML350 4 MATIC
I was wondering if anyone can give me an estimate on what my lease payment should be, assuming 30 months, 10,000 miles per year with top tier credit. I'm just curious what would be most beneficial for me..
Lease payments based on the sales price of $55200. Also what would be the selling price at the end of the lease should I decide to buy it at the end of lease term.
I'm really confused with the buy rate lease money factor and residual value terms...
Thanks for the help..!
Last edited by marvron26; Apr 19, 2013 at 02:49 AM.
http://www.carbuyingtips.com/lease.htm
http://www.realcartips.com/guide/#chapter3
MSRP 61460
Sale price 55212
30 month lease/ 10k miles year
$1400 down
$818 per month
0r $5000 down / $698 per month ( same thing )
residual $37,382
I don't know if this is a good lease or just buy it out right for the 10% below MSRP...
My 350BTec I leased last Saturday had a very close MSRP to yours. I got just about 10% off sticker. Added on prepaid 3 year prepaid maint & tire/wheel insurance for about $2k.
Paid $1,100 & change up front for a 36 month/45,000 mile lease, and I'm closer to $900 per month. I understand the Blutecs have a higher residual.
Do you typically get a new vehicle every +/- 3 years?
Is this a company vehicle?
If yes and yes, I believe lease is the way to go.
MSRP 61460
Sale price 55212
30 month lease/ 10k miles year
$1400 down
$818 per month
0r $5000 down / $698 per month ( same thing )
residual $37,382
I don't know if this is a good lease or just buy it out right for the 10% below MSRP...
Trending Topics
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Last edited by marcanders; Apr 21, 2013 at 12:46 AM.
The advantage of a lease is the "ease" to move forward into your next vehicle - with a lease you walk away and with all your costs have been identified and paid.
The "lost money" in a lease is your financing cost + acquisition fee + disposal fee's + paid sales tax value on the vehicle that won't be recaptured/posted against the purchase/lease of the next vehicle.
Flexing down payment/cash-into the lease is a buyer's tool to adjust the lease payment.
Best strategies are determine by purchase price - proposed term to hold - cash position - and next-vehicle-roll-over strategy, etc...
It's your decision to lease or buy - but understand purchase financing rates are stupid low..
So I guess it all comes down to if I want to a drive a different car after 2.5 years or not because deciding to purchase the vehicle after the lease is over will be more $$ spent than buying now..
I have a good number of customers at today's aggressive interest rates - trade-in, and/or add a decent down payment, pull a 5 yr note with no prepayment - hit the note hard over 3 yrs - and have "decent" equity for their next move forward.
Yes - depreciation is the major hit on all new cars - manufacturers do offer higher residuals than realistic future value to make leases more affordable - but you have higher "interest cost" + lease acquisition/disposition costs + most states no "reclaimed" sales tax credit forward into the next vehicle.
If you want a bit less of that d-hit - then 2012 CPO's are starting to bump - event/MB exec cars, a few select one owner - but those are of value if you plan higher mileage since 4yr 100K warranty coverage is of value $3K-$4K.
Good strong price on the ML - so you are starting off on the right footing to make the best choice for you.
I just traded in my car,for a BMW 2013 328i convertible.
I also debated the buy vs lease, as I've always bought our cars over the past 30 yrs. This is my first lease ever, since it made more sense this time.
So I got $2500 equity down for the trade in,
$55,400 sticker price,
with no more money down,
paying $526/month for 36 months,
TT&L included ($19,000 trade in value)
$35,000 residual
10,000 miles/yr
Seems like we take a beating at trade in value time, so buying doesn't make sense for us anymore, most times.
So paying almost $21,500 for 36 months is pretty good for me...




