DIY brake tip: Need 11 mm hex bit!
#26
I ended up just shutting off the ignition. That turned off the service mode. I haven't driven the vehicle yet so I don't know if there are any issues.
That said, the Check Brake Pad Wear warning still comes on. Will that shut off after I drive a bit or must the light be reset? If it must be reset, how do I do that?
And I'm not at all sure what the reference is to 11mm hex/allen caliper bolts is all about. The bolts on my truck were either ordinary bolt heads for which a 13mm socket was appropriate and they were also torx bolts. I could use either a 13mm socket or the appropriate size torx bit. Either way, though, the bolts were not the allen heads mentioned by others for which an allen bit as shown in the Amazon link was appropriate. That is true for both the original bolts and the bolts that came with the OE replacement pads. Hex/allen bits sort of/kind of work sometimes with torx fasteners, but it's pretty iffy.
That said, the Check Brake Pad Wear warning still comes on. Will that shut off after I drive a bit or must the light be reset? If it must be reset, how do I do that?
And I'm not at all sure what the reference is to 11mm hex/allen caliper bolts is all about. The bolts on my truck were either ordinary bolt heads for which a 13mm socket was appropriate and they were also torx bolts. I could use either a 13mm socket or the appropriate size torx bit. Either way, though, the bolts were not the allen heads mentioned by others for which an allen bit as shown in the Amazon link was appropriate. That is true for both the original bolts and the bolts that came with the OE replacement pads. Hex/allen bits sort of/kind of work sometimes with torx fasteners, but it's pretty iffy.
#27
Thank you for all the info in this thread, I was able to get the EPB to disengage, and get the pads on and re set the brake.
One question though, on my test drive, I noticed the rear rotors got very hot and had a burning smell to them, is that just the bedding in of the new pads, or is something causing the brake to stay on?
It was on both sides, I am hoping its just the burning off some of the shipping grease on the rotors, everything seemed to be working fine.
Anyone else encounter this issue with the heat and the burnt smell?
One question though, on my test drive, I noticed the rear rotors got very hot and had a burning smell to them, is that just the bedding in of the new pads, or is something causing the brake to stay on?
It was on both sides, I am hoping its just the burning off some of the shipping grease on the rotors, everything seemed to be working fine.
Anyone else encounter this issue with the heat and the burnt smell?
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W166 (07-31-2019)
#29
Junior Member
Torque Spec for M-Class W166 should be similar to X166
Please I need the W166 Torque Specs to do the brake job?
I am in the processof changing the pads and I have the tendency of over tighten the screws. Torque specs will be greatly appreciated.
Do you have to perform the EPB procedure if you only doing the fronts pads?Rotor recommendation other then the Mercedes stock?
I am in the processof changing the pads and I have the tendency of over tighten the screws. Torque specs will be greatly appreciated.
Do you have to perform the EPB procedure if you only doing the fronts pads?Rotor recommendation other then the Mercedes stock?
https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...que-specs.html
Also wheel nuts are 150nm. It is in the owner's manual.
Last edited by Mastcell; 05-15-2017 at 06:38 PM. Reason: Updated
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W166 (07-31-2019)
#30
2011 ML350
I was changing the brakes on my wife's 2011 ML350 4Matic and had trouble with the rear and the EPB going into pad service mode. My steering wheel looks like the following so it is a bit different than the videos and guides I've seen.
https://www.google.com/search?biw=19...gg9kx91M6JGTM:
Another issue I had was that my mileage would NOT show up in position 1/acc mode. It only showed when I first put my key in the ignition. Any ideas how I can accomplish this? I even called Mercedes dealers and they were either busy or had no idea.
Thanks,
Alq
https://www.google.com/search?biw=19...gg9kx91M6JGTM:
Another issue I had was that my mileage would NOT show up in position 1/acc mode. It only showed when I first put my key in the ignition. Any ideas how I can accomplish this? I even called Mercedes dealers and they were either busy or had no idea.
Thanks,
Alq
#31
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Cape Cod MA
Posts: 31
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2015 ML 350 4Matic gas
I was changing the brakes on my wife's 2011 ML350 4Matic and had trouble with the rear and the EPB going into pad service mode. My steering wheel looks like the following so it is a bit different than the videos and guides I've seen.
https://www.google.com/search?biw=19...gg9kx91M6JGTM:
Another issue I had was that my mileage would NOT show up in position 1/acc mode. It only showed when I first put my key in the ignition. Any ideas how I can accomplish this? I even called Mercedes dealers and they were either busy or had no idea.
Thanks,
Alq
https://www.google.com/search?biw=19...gg9kx91M6JGTM:
Another issue I had was that my mileage would NOT show up in position 1/acc mode. It only showed when I first put my key in the ignition. Any ideas how I can accomplish this? I even called Mercedes dealers and they were either busy or had no idea.
Thanks,
Alq
You have a W164 and this is a W166 Forum. Try the W164 Forum as these are different vehicles.
#32
Brake lube
first I want to thank everyone on here for all the good info. Especially the parking brake release. I have two questions. The first question is once the car has been put into pad replacement mode do you have to do something to take it out or does it automatically do it? The second question I have is in regards to using lube. I have done many BMWs and I always use Syl- glide on the guide pins and contact points I also use CRC brake disc quiet on the back of the pads.. is any of this necessary for my new Benz? Thank you
#33
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Cape Cod MA
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2015 ML 350 4Matic gas
first I want to thank everyone on here for all the good info. Especially the parking brake release. I have two questions. The first question is once the car has been put into pad replacement mode do you have to do something to take it out or does it automatically do it? The second question I have is in regards to using lube. I have done many BMWs and I always use Syl- glide on the guide pins and contact points I also use CRC brake disc quiet on the back of the pads.. is any of this necessary for my new Benz? Thank you
#34
#35
Junior Member
Sport Package Vs. Non-Sport Package
Has anyone put vented rotors on a non-sport package car? I ordered online, my rear rotors are solid, without vents, and CarID and I have been going back and forth as they sent me vented rotors. They triple checked and said these will work... I'm skeptical, but willing to try, perhaps there's advice out there. Video on YouTube I saw a bit ago makes me think otherwise.
Correct me if I'm wrong--the non-sport package has solid rotors, while AMG appearance or sport package has vented rotors, right?
THX
Joe
Correct me if I'm wrong--the non-sport package has solid rotors, while AMG appearance or sport package has vented rotors, right?
THX
Joe
#36
Has anyone put vented rotors on a non-sport package car? I ordered online, my rear rotors are solid, without vents, and CarID and I have been going back and forth as they sent me vented rotors. They triple checked and said these will work... I'm skeptical, but willing to try, perhaps there's advice out there. Video on YouTube I saw a bit ago makes me think otherwise.
Correct me if I'm wrong--the non-sport package has solid rotors, while AMG appearance or sport package has vented rotors, right?
THX
Joe
Correct me if I'm wrong--the non-sport package has solid rotors, while AMG appearance or sport package has vented rotors, right?
THX
Joe
#37
Junior Member
I wish I had found this thread before taking the front wheel off And of course, my "fancy 264 pieces" tools set didn't have the 11mm hex bit! Just ordered one as recommended here.
On the other hand, I have tried but couldn't figure out how to remove the "spring". This is my first brake job I have looked at various videos on Youtube, they are all little different than mine, but still, couldn't pull it with pliers as recommended. Any advice? I have included 2 photos. Thanks!
#38
Junior Member
first I want to thank everyone on here for all the good info. Especially the parking brake release. I have two questions. The first question is once the car has been put into pad replacement mode do you have to do something to take it out or does it automatically do it? The second question I have is in regards to using lube. I have done many BMWs and I always use Syl- glide on the guide pins and contact points I also use CRC brake disc quiet on the back of the pads.. is any of this necessary for my new Benz? Thank you
Probably too late for mikewilz,, but
The lube for the glide pins needs to be compatible with the rubber boots. I recommend using silicone grease.
The lube for the contact points and the back of the pads can be any brake grease, but I use coper-based anti-seize.
I find this useful which explains the above sentences:
Last edited by Mastcell; 06-21-2019 at 09:48 PM.
#39
[QUOTE=AkTech;7350149]
I wish I had found this thread before taking the front wheel off And of course, my "fancy 264 pieces" tools set didn't have the 11mm hex bit! Just ordered one as recommended here.
On the other hand, I have tried but couldn't figure out how to remove the "spring". This is my first brake job I have looked at various videos on Youtube, they are all little different than mine, but still, couldn't pull it with pliers as recommended. Any advice? I have included 2 photos
In the photo the red arrow is where that little spring hooks in. If you push the spring back,which would be away from the hub of the wheel, It will come out of the hole. Then to put it back on you secure the hub side first and then push it towards the two holes and it clips itself back in. The easiest way to push it away from the hub to get a little block of wood or something you can wedge in between the hub and the clip And push it away. I have a big heavy duty flathead screwdriver that works great for this.
I wish I had found this thread before taking the front wheel off And of course, my "fancy 264 pieces" tools set didn't have the 11mm hex bit! Just ordered one as recommended here.
On the other hand, I have tried but couldn't figure out how to remove the "spring". This is my first brake job I have looked at various videos on Youtube, they are all little different than mine, but still, couldn't pull it with pliers as recommended. Any advice? I have included 2 photos
In the photo the red arrow is where that little spring hooks in. If you push the spring back,which would be away from the hub of the wheel, It will come out of the hole. Then to put it back on you secure the hub side first and then push it towards the two holes and it clips itself back in. The easiest way to push it away from the hub to get a little block of wood or something you can wedge in between the hub and the clip And push it away. I have a big heavy duty flathead screwdriver that works great for this.