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You DO NOT need to remove that clip to replace the air filter. Basically after you remove the two bolts that hold down the air filter box the box can swing up, with the clip you removed serving as the axle. Then you can remove the 3 torx screws to open it. That's what the official document from MB says. I have a 2013 C300 with M276 and I have been replacing this filter 3 times with this method. No problem at all.
If you gently lift the air sensor clip up a notch until it clicks. Then you gently pull back on the tab while simultaneously lifting the sensor out of it’s housing - it will come free. I think so people are breaking the tab off because they are continuing to pull the tab straight up to release it. No. Once its raised in the up position, you pull the tab back and then it releases from the housing.
just did this repair, took 30 minutes, taking the whole housing out, gently as everything is plastic.
Is a tool available for removing Mercedes electrical connectors, with the moveable lock/latch? What is the official method for this? Is it as simple as using a small flat screwdriver to move the latch, then pulling the connector off by hand?
Is a tool available for removing Mercedes electrical connectors, with the moveable lock/latch? What is the official method for this? Is it as simple as using a small flat screwdriver to move the latch, then pulling the connector off by hand?
Not that simple, unless the connector is somewhat loose.
After the gray tab is pulled up from the housing, it needs to be pinched towards the connector housing, and then wiggled out.
I found the easiest way to do this, after the tab is pulled up, is to gently crimp the flat part of the gray tab and the connector body with angled needle-nose pliers, and then pulled off.
In the video above from JonnyC, aug-01-2017, the plastic tool entering the video from the right side should show the gray tab being pulled up [towards 12-o-clock]. Then the tab is pushed towards the connector housing, enabling the connector to be wiggled off.
This also works well for other similar connectors, such as on the coil pack.
This can be a pain, but even if the tab snaps off, the connector fits back in tightly. However, re-removal might be problematic since the remaining gray tab inside the housing will need to be pushed out first from the other side [6-o-clock in the video].
Is a tool available for removing Mercedes electrical connectors, with the moveable lock/latch? What is the official method for this? Is it as simple as using a small flat screwdriver to move the latch, then pulling the connector off by hand?
It is that simple actually but you need to have full understanding of this type of connector. First of all the grey tab has 2 positions. One is the locked position where it's pushed all the way in. The other is in the unlocked position which you can get to by using the flat screwdriver to pop it up just ~1mm. When the grey tab is at the unlocked position, it serves as the tab for the spring lock that holds the connector in place. You need to sqeeze it towards the center of the connector direction to release the hold down spring. You can also visualize the spring lock from the other end as well. Sometimes if the spring lock doesn't unlock when you sqeeze, you need to push the connector towards the receptacle a little to make the spring lock free. Rule of thumb is never force anything. The connector should remove pretty easily if you did it correct. I have removed and serviced the engine of my 2007 R350 and have dealt with this type of connectors many times and never broke any of them using this method.
yikes I just broke the grey tab on the sensor. Did it with my thumb it was so brittle. Ended up not taking it off and just pushed the broken tab back in to hold the sensor down. Can this connector be replaced? Not sure where the other end of the wire goes as it is all tied up in a wire loom with other wires. what do you all suggest? just leave it as is? Splice in a new connector? I'm really bummed this happened. There is so much plastic in these vehicles must happen all the time as these cars age.
Hi I saw your model is the same as mine, 2015 ML 350 gas, you only need one air filter? where did you get the air filter and part #?
I just did the procedure today on my '17 GLE 350. Excellent instructions! Frank94, I used a Mann C43 139 air filter, and I'm quite sure that same filter serves your '15 ML 350. I bought mine on Amazon Prime for US$38.23 delivered. I also bought the hose clamp pliers ($10.29) and the female torx socket set ($9.97) from Amazon at the same time. Under $60.00 and about a half hour of my time goes in the good deal column in my book! I'm not sure what an M-B dealer would charge for this service, but I suspect it's not much less than $200.
I can't believe how much easier this job is when you remove the clamp and air sensor connector and pull the air box out.
It saves the insulation on the air box and firewall. It keeps the rubber bumpers from getting pinched, and it gives you the opportunity to clean out the intake if any motor oil has accumulated there.
I used my sprinkler pinch clamp pliers and a screwdriver to open the clamp. Worked like a charm.
I can't believe how much easier this job is when you remove the clamp and air sensor connector and pull the air box out.
It saves the insulation on the air box and firewall. It keeps the rubber bumpers from getting pinched, and it gives you the opportunity to clean out the intake if any motor oil has accumulated there.
I used my sprinkler pinch clamp pliers and a screwdriver to open the clamp. Worked like a charm.
@W212M276 agree fully. Knipex make the pliers designed for the air duct clamp. Glad you found an alternative.
You can't buy the grey tab by itself. The entire connector is 025-545-65-26.
Is it required to change the connector if the grey tab is broken? I would assume the connector will function properly with the grey tab missing? Can someone confirm.
Is it required to change the connector if the grey tab is broken? I would assume the connector will function properly with the grey tab missing? Can someone confirm.
@immi08 In theory, the connector could come off over time through vibration and heat/cold cycles. How likely this event would be, is hard to estimate.
From years (years? Nay, decades!) of DIY working on aging German cars* with all their fragile plastic electrical connectors...
You're going to break some. It won't matter. Don't lose sleep over it. Push it back on.
Stop, look at the connector, and think for a minute: "How is this connecter held on? What's this latching mechanism, and how does it work?" There are only so many clever ways the engineers could design these items meant to snap on quickly and only occasionally be removed. Once you recognize the connector type, you'll be able to remove it safely.
Audis** have a disconnector tool; it's worth the ~$10 or whatever it is. Merc's? dunno ...yet.
Keep a squirt bottle of soapy water in your garage and spray the connector first. Lubrication is your friend. Gets through the dirt and dust and makes pulling that connector off a breeze.
I recently bought a '13 ML350 and did this job in about 20 minutes; could do it again in 10.
*Is it a really German car if it has fewer than 150k miles on it? My first car was an 83 GTI because I was 20 years old and, well, it was awesome. It was then 5 years old and, looking back, ready to die then but I milked it to 155k before selling it...
** My first post here. Been an Audi guy since 92; took a 97 A8 from 73k to 267k and have had many others along the way. That said, I replaced it with an '11 W212 E350 4matic and discovered that Mercs are engineered to be maintained and they don't fall apart. What a revelation. Now the "Luftwaffe," as my kids call it, is 3 Audis (Q7 for the Mrs. and a pair of A4s for the kids) and 3 Mercs (11 E350/4, e350/4 wagon, '13 ML350/4). Go forward? Merc.
From years (years? Nay, decades!) of DIY working on aging German cars* with all their fragile plastic electrical connectors...
You're going to break some. It won't matter. Don't lose sleep over it. Push it back on.
Stop, look at the connector, and think for a minute: "How is this connecter held on? What's this latching mechanism, and how does it work?" There are only so many clever ways the engineers could design these items meant to snap on quickly and only occasionally be removed. Once you recognize the connector type, you'll be able to remove it safely.
Audis** have a disconnector tool; it's worth the ~$10 or whatever it is. Merc's? dunno ...yet.
Keep a squirt bottle of soapy water in your garage and spray the connector first. Lubrication is your friend. Gets through the dirt and dust and makes pulling that connector off a breeze.
I recently bought a '13 ML350 and did this job in about 20 minutes; could do it again in 10.
*Is it a really German car if it has fewer than 150k miles on it? My first car was an 83 GTI because I was 20 years old and, well, it was awesome. It was then 5 years old and, looking back, ready to die then but I milked it to 155k before selling it...
** My first post here. Been an Audi guy since 92; took a 97 A8 from 73k to 267k and have had many others along the way. That said, I replaced it with an '11 W212 E350 4matic and discovered that Mercs are engineered to be maintained and they don't fall apart. What a revelation. Now the "Luftwaffe," as my kids call it, is 3 Audis (Q7 for the Mrs. and a pair of A4s for the kids) and 3 Mercs (11 E350/4, e350/4 wagon, '13 ML350/4). Go forward? Merc.
Welcome @Toadroller ! Looking forward to your experience and insight.
06-16-2015, 01:28 PM
