Brake Rotors condition for a CPO

Curious on what people think for condition of the rotors for a CPO. It may meet the min. thickness for a CPO but condition wise they are terrible and you can feel the grooves.
This is not normal for ML's right? The previous owner must have driven it hard.
Appreciate any opinions. I am going to complain to the dealer but not sure how well that will go.

Thanks

If there is no vibration, grooving does not effect braking, just looks crap.
It has 25K miles on it and is in otherwise great shape. The deal this month for CPO is 2 years free maintenance and the first 2 months paid by MB.
It has 25K miles on it and is in otherwise great shape. The deal this month for CPO is 2 years free maintenance and the first 2 months paid by MB.
Ask for the CPO inspection sheet for your vehicle, it will list pad/rotor thickness.
just mention it to the salesperson, tell him you want the pads replaced and the rotors turned, should not be that big of a deal.
Thanks. I know wear items are not included and this is my plan. I just sent an email and will see what they have to say.
Trending Topics
Frankly - on the GLK rotor what the photo shows I would consider "normal" wear...
Keep the beat !
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Questioned it with service tech and they measure them and my were within limits on the front but rear ones look twice as large on the pads. They replaced rear pads before I got the ML.Rotors are about half as bad as yours.
Through this was king of cheap of them doing this.
My first Benz also they did not show anything on contract of what work was done on the CPO? I had to ask service tech to show me some of what was completed.
They do like 150 inspections on CPO but they should be held accountable on what they have done.
Could say anything? Hope this helps!
OP - as for the grooving on the surface, it is perfectly normal and there is ZERO need for concern. I don't get the "condition-wise they're terrible" statment - that's exactly what used rotors look like. The only time to be cautious is when you change the pads without changing the rotors (machining the rotors is IMHO a huge waste of money), at which time you need to make sure that you bed the new pads in properly and give yourself more stopping distance during the first few days (depending on your driving style and how much you drive) as the new pads are only going to be gripping the tops of those ridges until the pad surface gets properly seated on the rotor. You'll easily feel the extra pedal effort required when braking to achieve the same stopping force until they get fully bedded in.



