M-Class (W166) Produced 2012-2015

Ultimate Family Hauler - ML 350 Build Thread

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Old 11-07-2021 | 11:14 AM
  #151  
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2018 Lexus LC500, 2020 GLE350 4Matic, 2005 Jeep Wrangler
That makes sense, but since the LED's dim when the headlights are on, does the star dim as well?
Old 11-07-2021 | 11:18 AM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by pgolfco
That makes sense, but since the LED's dim when the headlights are on, does the star dim as well?
​​​​​​I am not too sure. They looks the same color to me. I doubt there are two light settings on the star i got, but maybe the voltage will affect the light output. I am not too sure
Old 12-30-2021 | 11:38 PM
  #153  
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Hello fellow Albertan,

i remember that cold snap back in Alberta last year. Similar to the last week this year. I also have a BMW and all of a sudden it started to leak some fluids all of a sudden.

When the weather improves the leaks stopped only to return last week. I heard about that ATP205 product and was going to use it. However I read that it might expand the seals too much and make the leak worse. Did your leak worsen after the ATP or was it the same.

Either way, i found an 2012 ML350 BlueTec with like 40KM. Seems like it was owned by a gramma going to church and back every Sunday. Great condition.

Wondering how you found this engine to be in Albertas harsh cold winters?

Is the engine a money pit and I should look for a gas? Seems 90% for sale are all diesels in Alberta.

Besides the engine how was the rest of the vehicle? Aside from your transfer case leaking.

If you do the ECU delete for BlueTec what will happen if you need to go to dealer for certain work like airbag recalls? Software updates? Can you flash it back? I read about your issue with the hesitation and wondering what one can do in that situation after they deleted their BlueTec ?

Either way. Keep up the good work. Its hard to tell whether the W166 is a good car or not. Someone like you seems to not get too many issues while others call it a money pit.
Old 12-31-2021 | 09:45 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by W203fanatic
Hello fellow Albertan,

i remember that cold snap back in Alberta last year. Similar to the last week this year. I also have a BMW and all of a sudden it started to leak some fluids all of a sudden.

When the weather improves the leaks stopped only to return last week. I heard about that ATP205 product and was going to use it. However I read that it might expand the seals too much and make the leak worse. Did your leak worsen after the ATP or was it the same.

I only added small amount, it did not make it worst or better. To me, it about the same. For now, i just top up some transfer case fluid every oil change and call it good until it gets worse.

Either way, i found an 2012 ML350 BlueTec with like 40KM. Seems like it was owned by a gramma going to church and back every Sunday. Great condition.

Low miles doesn't mean a good thing. Is the owner doing all the recommended services? Is it parked for extended periods of time? And most important, did the owner ever replace the oil cooler seal, we are talking about 3.5k CAD job

Wondering how you found this engine to be in Albertas harsh cold winters?

It fine with alberta winter. No issues. Just can't push tok hard when it too cold

Is the engine a money pit and I should look for a gas? Seems 90% for sale are all diesels in Alberta.

Do you work on your own vehicle? Do you mind using the fcp euro website for lifetime warranty parts benefits?It takes extra effort to pack the used parts to claim the warranty with fcp euro. Not everyone wants to do that.

Besides the engine how was the rest of the vehicle? Aside from your transfer case leaking.

I guess good. Sometimes i get a random check engine light for electrical or the injector exceeded maximum flow. I believe this is something to do with my tune. More fuel, more power, so i think my tune push the injectors pretty hard. Everytime i get that CEL, i will run the Diesel kleen injectors cleaner and change the fuel filter, and it will be fine for a period of time. And the problem will come back if i don't use the injector cleaner for like extensive period of time.

If you do the ECU delete for BlueTec what will happen if you need to go to dealer for certain work like airbag recalls? Software updates? Can you flash it back? I read about your issue with the hesitation and wondering what one can do in that situation after they deleted their BlueTec ?

Emission delete has no issues with the recall. You can flash it back if you don't do the full delete. You can do a software delete, but if the car you looking for has low miles, shouldn't have any emission issues

Either way. Keep up the good work. Its hard to tell whether the W166 is a good car or not. Someone like you seems to not get too many issues while others call it a money pit.

My car's pervious owner has extended warranty till 160 000 km, so he pretty much got everything taking care before i take possession. If you cant do the basic maintenance, it will be expansive to maintain a ml. To me, if i have to do an oil change, i will much rather to spend my time to work on a Mercedes than a Toyota. Nothing wrong with Toyota, it just not as exciting compare to Mercedes. My ml can do 0 to 100km under 6 seconds. Can spin the wheels when kick down at the stop light. Can keep up with the mustang gt till around 80km. I beat a lot of sport car at drag race. It a really fun suv with a lot of torque, like a lot, 520lbs feet of torque can beat a lot of car at drag race. It just needs a lot of love and work to keep the vehicle going. If you are close to Calgary. Send me a pm. We can meet up and show you the vehicle
Please see the reply in above
Old 01-04-2022 | 05:05 PM
  #155  
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I found this pair led bulbs work for break light

Amazon Amazon


Originally Posted by GLK Super Fan

Recently 1 of the brake light bulb burnt out. I attempted to switch the led version, but failed. None of the canbus led work, regardless the price and brand

Went to the dealership and got a new pair of oem bulbs

This is the sample of led i got from amazon. Almost $40, still don't work

The oem bulbs looks pretty high quality

This is the part number for the oem bulbs

https://youtu.be/xB3xMB12Ys4

This is the video i used to change the light bulbs. Super easy, 5 mins job
Old 01-04-2022 | 07:17 PM
  #156  
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E270 cdi W211, E350 cdi W212, ML350 BlueTec W166
This is the sample of led i got from amazon. Almost $40, still don't work
Need to parallel resistors to the LED bulbs.
Old 01-06-2022 | 11:29 AM
  #157  
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I did not want to put the resistors in and screw around with the brake light. I figure if I am ever in a accident and they do an inspection, and they find out that my brake light has been modified. I don't want them to use as an excuse to screw me over
Old 01-12-2022 | 07:37 AM
  #158  
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Just been through the whole thread .. nice write up and account of what you've done. I've just got my GLE 350d, so it's nice to have some inspiration and an idea of what parts are available. The last car I modified was a Eunos Roadster (aka Mazda Miata) and there are loooaaaadddss of parts available for those.
I have a black Panamerican grille that arrived yesterday to fit, but that's it so far .. but I only got my truck last Friday!
Old 01-13-2022 | 05:12 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by Mark.T
Just been through the whole thread .. nice write up and account of what you've done. I've just got my GLE 350d, so it's nice to have some inspiration and an idea of what parts are available. The last car I modified was a Eunos Roadster (aka Mazda Miata) and there are loooaaaadddss of parts available for those.
I have a black Panamerican grille that arrived yesterday to fit, but that's it so far .. but I only got my truck last Friday!
Nice. I think the 2016 GLE350d probably the best diesel version of OM642. Too bad they holds the price so well, otherwise I will get one with the coupe version. It won't have too much parts for you to mod your car for the GLE350d, but i think you can convert your diffuser and exhaust tips for GLE63 style.
Old 01-13-2022 | 06:16 PM
  #160  
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Hey guys,

Did any of you received an email regrading the Class action lawsuit against MB in regards to bluetec vehicles from 2009-2016?

So far from the email they are stating that every MB diesel owner is entitled for a cash pay around 2400-2600 cad.

I was wondering if I need to go to downgrade everyrthing I did with cutting the emmision systems on my ML
Old 01-18-2022 | 01:09 PM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by Chamelleon
Hey guys,

Did any of you received an email regrading the Class action lawsuit against MB in regards to bluetec vehicles from 2009-2016?

So far from the email they are stating that every MB diesel owner is entitled for a cash pay around 2400-2600 cad.

I was wondering if I need to go to downgrade everyrthing I did with cutting the emmision systems on my ML
Most likely you will have to. Even "software delete" will show up on the dealer's scan when you bring your truck for the repairs.

I got an email for my GLK last week to head over to https://www.bluetecsettlement.ca/ and check if the repairs are available to start the process. I think we have a thread on this Class action here already: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...site-up-9.html
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Old 02-01-2022 | 01:22 AM
  #162  
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Good thread and lots of info! I just got a 2014 ML550 and I plan on doing all the fluids in the spring starting with the transmission. Keep the info coming and greeting from British Columbia!
Old 02-01-2022 | 06:38 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by GLK Super Fan
For the longest time, I have my block heater core hidden around the wiper, which sometimes caused vibration and noise So I finally decided to mount the block heater core plug in on the bumper


In order to mount the block heater on the bumper, first you have to remove the inner wheel liner on the passenger side. Once you removed the wheel liner, you will be able to access with the DRL panel , which is pain in the *** to remove. I tried with the trim removal tool, no luck. I was able to get it off with a long flat head screw driver. There are also one clip on the side on the panel, make sure you remove it before you attempt to remove the panel.

Once you removed the panel, then you can disassemble the chrome trim and the DRL. Start drilling the hole Make sure you measure it few times before you start drilling

Test it and see if you can open the cap freely , and the secure connection

Now test fit and see how it looks before you reassemble everything back

This is what it looks like after the panel got secured. I have to cut out one of the bumper clip in order to reassemble the drl panel

Before I reassemble everything, I decided to plastic dip everything before I put everything back. Once again, 6 coats of plastic dip and 3 coats of glossifier

Alberta rock chip hit my DRL :S I was going to order a new set from Amazon, but decided to keep using it until it burn out. I polished it and it turned out ok

This is the final product after I ceramic coated the black DRL panel

This is where the block heater plugged into. It located in the front of the engine bay on the passenger side

This is where I connect my ground

This is the final product. looks super clean

And the other side
what cable & where did you buy the block heater cable and the nice plug cover for the exterior grill install?

dealer wants $82.50 CAD for the block heater cable but its currently back ordered.
Old 02-01-2022 | 11:37 PM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by Babukb2
what cable & where did you buy the block heater cable and the nice plug cover for the exterior grill install?

dealer wants $82.50 CAD for the block heater cable but its currently back ordered.
Dealer. The block heater core kit comes with everything. I don't remember paying that much, i only paid $50 CAD, but that few years ago before covid
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Old 02-02-2022 | 11:29 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by GLK Super Fan
Dealer. The block heater core kit comes with everything. I don't remember paying that much, i only paid $50 CAD, but that few years ago before covid
do you keep the block heater plugged in overnight all the time during winter or just plug it in 1-2 hrs before you plan to head out?
I've read it can draw a lot of electricity and its not economical to keep it plugged in, but i also dont know how long it takes to warm things up and how long in advance it would have to be plugged in to be ready.
Old 02-03-2022 | 02:54 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by Babukb2
do you keep the block heater plugged in overnight all the time during winter or just plug it in 1-2 hrs before you plan to head out?
I've read it can draw a lot of electricity and its not economical to keep it plugged in, but i also dont know how long it takes to warm things up and how long in advance it would have to be plugged in to be ready.
I have a heated garage, so when i am at home, i don't plug it in. When i am at work, i park out. I plugged in for my entire shift(long shift, 16 hrs) and I don't pay for the power bill. You can do the 1-2 hrs before you start the vehicle, but the block heater don't run that hot. Maybe have a hard time to warm up the fluid if it has been sitting in -30 degree for the entire night
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Old 02-12-2022 | 11:14 AM
  #167  
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I noticed you buy your parts from FCP Euro. How do you deal with the shipping and custom fees to get it to Alberta?
Old 02-12-2022 | 01:06 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by W203fanatic
I noticed you buy your parts from FCP Euro. How do you deal with the shipping and custom fees to get it to Alberta?
Open my wallet 😂 Well, it still cheaper compare buying local / dealership. And the life time warranty is amazing
Old 02-12-2022 | 06:40 PM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by GLK Super Fan
Open my wallet 😂 Well, it still cheaper compare buying local / dealership. And the life time warranty is amazing
There is no other online place in Canada to buy parts online? How about NAPA ? Autopartsway?
Old 02-12-2022 | 08:39 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by W203fanatic
There is no other online place in Canada to buy parts online? How about NAPA ? Autopartsway?
Not that i know of. Plus, no one is going to give you life time warranty. Just the engine air filter and fuel filter , it 100 percent worth to use fcp euro. The engine air filter is like $100 plus in the dealership, fcp euro, free after the first purchase, just need to pay shipping, and little bit duty fee, that it I replaced my Engine air filters like 3 times
Old 02-13-2022 | 01:28 AM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by GLK Super Fan
Not that i know of. Plus, no one is going to give you life time warranty. Just the engine air filter and fuel filter , it 100 percent worth to use fcp euro. The engine air filter is like $100 plus in the dealership, fcp euro, free after the first purchase, just need to pay shipping, and little bit duty fee, that it I replaced my Engine air filters like 3 times
The reason why I avoid buying anything from USA is that if its shipped by say UPS, I end up getting a huge customs bill when I pick up the order.

I remember buying a $100 part, but I was surprised to pay an extra $30-35 customs/duty fee on top of that. So after exchange rate, shipping, and duty it would of cost the same at the dealer.
Old 02-13-2022 | 06:02 AM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by W203fanatic
The reason why I avoid buying anything from USA is that if its shipped by say UPS, I end up getting a huge customs bill when I pick up the order.

I remember buying a $100 part, but I was surprised to pay an extra $30-35 customs/duty fee on top of that. So after exchange rate, shipping, and duty it would of cost the same at the dealer.
Bro, it not cheap to maintain our w166. Without the fcp euro, I don't know if i can keep up the maintenance. I change my fuel filter, engine air filter, cabin air filter, oil filters at least once a year. On top of that, front diff, rear diff and transfer case, once a year. Brake fluid once every 2 years. Along with some wiper blades and transmission flush. If you sit down and add all these parts, it will be well over $500 per year. And fcp euro offer that for free after the initial purchase. The $30 duty fee that you are worrying is like nothing. That being said, i normally collect significant amount of items before i file a warranty claim with fcp euro, that way i save little bit of money for shipping. Normally cost me $100 cad to ship a big box of used items back to fcp euro.
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Old 02-13-2022 | 06:04 AM
  #173  
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Never use UPS to canada. They rape you on brokerage fees. FedEx shipping on a clutch and flywheel to me in British Columbia was $40 fed ex and I had it in 3 days. We don’t pay huge duty on auto parts. Nobody gives you lifetime warranty and FCPeuro prices are very good compared to buying in Canada. I got fuel injectors for my Audi and they were half the price of buying locally. I’ve been using them for years.

Last edited by Doubleredrolex; 02-13-2022 at 06:08 AM.
Old 02-13-2022 | 02:14 PM
  #174  
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How do I know before I make the order that it won’t get shipped by UPS?

I know FedEx is good. The only duty I pay is just the GST.

Old 02-13-2022 | 04:35 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by W203fanatic
How do I know before I make the order that it won’t get shipped by UPS?

I know FedEx is good. The only duty I pay is just the GST.
It give you options to choose either fedex or ups


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