M-Class (W166) Produced 2012-2015

Cold Stutter...or sputter

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Old Jul 5, 2020 | 10:01 AM
  #1  
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2012 X6 35i Sport, 2013 ML 350 BT, 2019 4Runner TRD Pro, 2020 CRV-AWD
Cold Stutter...or sputter

Over the last few months, our ML has been exhibiting a stutter when first pulling out of the driveway. It'll sputter for a few seconds when accelerating. After 1-2 accelerations, it's fine.
What I noticed was that yesterday am (with a full tank), there was no such sputter. I'm wondering if there's an issue with the fuel pump. My buddy had an old Dodge Dakota and he claimed that he had to fill up with premium because the engine would sometimes sputter. I knew that made no sense so I jury-rigged a mechanical pressure gauge to the fuel line and tie-wrapped the gauge to his windshield cowl.
Sure enough, the pump had trouble maintaining pressure when the tank was below 1/3 full.
I'm wondering if that's the problem here. Mind you, I can live with the sputter as it only happens at the 1st cold acceleration. I'm more curious than anything else.
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Old Jul 5, 2020 | 01:02 PM
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Is it Diesel?
I have a similar experience. Occasionally after a half a mile or when cold I get a slight"miss" as though it's trying to find a gear. Tank is usually around half full.
I've filled it with premium diesel to see if this helps.Worth a try?
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Old Jul 5, 2020 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by paulwith
Is it Diesel?
I have a similar experience. Occasionally after a half a mile or when cold I get a slight"miss" as though it's trying to find a gear. Tank is usually around half full.
I've filled it with premium diesel to see if this helps.Worth a try?
Huh? No such thing as premium diesel!!
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 01:43 AM
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havent encountered the same on mine, but im thinking something is preventing full & consistent flow.
check the pump, & whens the last time u changed the fuel filter? maybe the filter has some crud in it that sometimes prevents a smooth flow.
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Babukb2
havent encountered the same on mine, but im thinking something is preventing full & consistent flow.
check the pump, & whens the last time u changed the fuel filter? maybe the filter has some crud in it that sometimes prevents a smooth flow.
Haven't yet changed the fuel filter and she only has around 30k miles on her, but why would it sputter only for the first few seconds of acceleration on a cold start?
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 08:36 AM
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I agree with @peter2772000 Doubt it's the fuel filter as it only happens when it's cold. You might want to run a scan to see if there are any hidden codes. Could be anything, from plugged air filter, to faulty sensor, etc...
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by peter2772000
Haven't yet changed the fuel filter and she only has around 30k miles on her, but why would it sputter only for the first few seconds of acceleration on a cold start?
maybe once a regular flow is established its fine and thats why it only happens on the first few seconds
also fuel filter will be cheaper and easier to replace than the fuel pump.

is this only with a cold engine? or does it also happen if you stop and park somewhere for a few minutes and then when leaving engine is still warm but you also have a bit of the stutter issue when accelerating the fisrt time?
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 06:19 PM
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Possible intake air flow leak as well. I have had similar symptoms where it only happens after start-up. Once you start driving the symptoms disappear.


Check that orange seal for leakage.

Check the seal on this connection to the turbo outlet. This is where I had my leak and it hesitate right after start-up.

Turbo inlet and outlet.
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 06:28 PM
  #9  
Etienne Lau's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Babukb2
maybe once a regular flow is established its fine and thats why it only happens on the first few seconds
also fuel filter will be cheaper and easier to replace than the fuel pump.

is this only with a cold engine? or does it also happen if you stop and park somewhere for a few minutes and then when leaving engine is still warm but you also have a bit of the stutter issue when accelerating the fisrt time?
All new vehicles now gasoline and diesel are now HPFP. Meaning they are running at 1000's of PSI and not 40PSI. Therefore fuel flow is already regular as soon as the driver opens the door and not when he starts the engine. The fuel flow is constant through the fuel rail. Also the diesel fuel filter functions as dual purpose, filtering out debris and also fuel and water separator.

Mind you the amount of work to replace the fuel filter is a little more work for the OP to check the turbo inlet and turbo outlet seals which are both inexpensive fixes and very easy fixes vs messing with the fuel filter.

But as I said in my previous post, I had the exact same symptoms and it was caused by an air leak on the turbo outlet pipe.
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Etienne Lau
All new vehicles now gasoline and diesel are now HPFP. Meaning they are running at 1000's of PSI and not 40PSI. Therefore fuel flow is already regular as soon as the driver opens the door and not when he starts the engine. The fuel flow is constant through the fuel rail. Also the diesel fuel filter functions as dual purpose, filtering out debris and also fuel and water separator.

Mind you the amount of work to replace the fuel filter is a little more work for the OP to check the turbo inlet and turbo outlet seals which are both inexpensive fixes and very easy fixes vs messing with the fuel filter.

But as I said in my previous post, I had the exact same symptoms and it was caused by an air leak on the turbo outlet pipe.
good info to know.

you have to remove that tube in your photos to get to the fuel filter anyways. on mine i was aiming to do a B service and replace the fuel filter, but because i had to remove all that stuff i went ahead and replaced all the seals on the turbo connections since they are not that pricey from the dealer. hopefully i avoided a similar problem just by replacing the seals.
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 11:51 PM
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Personally I would replace those seals on a regular basis even though it's not recommended or required. The large orange turbo inlet seal is subjected to oil and that causes deterioration and therefore allows unfiltered air to enter the turbo. Same principle applies to that turbo outlet seal, unfiltered air get's sucked in. Both those seals are cheap, I usually buy them from www.pelicanparts.com or www.idparts.com
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