Camshaft adjuster design flaw
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Joined: Jan 2021
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2014 ML 350 3.5L
Camshaft adjuster design flaw
I am about to tow my car to the repair shop to get the camshaft adjuster fixed. Apparently the camshaft has a major design flaw. So does anybody know if there are any other preventative maintenance work that will overlap with this job? Has anybody fixed this design flaw in the camshaft?
2014 ML350 4Matic
In pristine shape. Use only oem parts
Last edited by d_787b; Oct 6, 2021 at 07:35 PM.
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From: Orbiting the planet
This place is a joke.
What engine do you have? How many miles? Design flaw...maybe, but there are millions of these engines (m276) out there with no adjuster problems. Have you been using oem oil filters with MB approved oil at every service interval?
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2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
From your profile, you are referring to the W166-E350-2014, correct?
Would you mind posting your VIN number? From there you, and the VIN decoder you can tell if your engine is within a series of engines that require an additional check valve, and replacing of the chain tensioner. Supposedly, those adjustments were for a noise issue w/o side effects
Did you get codes before the camshaft adjuster failed?
Would you mind posting your VIN number? From there you, and the VIN decoder you can tell if your engine is within a series of engines that require an additional check valve, and replacing of the chain tensioner. Supposedly, those adjustments were for a noise issue w/o side effects
Did you get codes before the camshaft adjuster failed?
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2012 ML350
Do the tensioner and check valve first. While the front cover is open, there are threads and youtube videos on how to check if the camshaft adjuster is bad and change it while everything is open, otherwise if it's still in the early stage, tensioner and check valve is the only fix needed.
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2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
Here is a video showing the chain tensioner maintenance
One thing I noticed from your estimate is that you are not only changing the tensioner and the adjuster but the camshaft itself as well. That is another level of work, i.e. more parts to be removed, more details to put together correct later -->$$$
How do they know the camshaft is already busted if they have not opened the engine? I understand you can view, and check the camshaft adjuster by removing the front covers, but for the shaft itself, you must remove the headcover.
Also, here is a video showing one mode of failure of the camshaft adjuster (worn pin within the adjuster)
One thing I noticed from your estimate is that you are not only changing the tensioner and the adjuster but the camshaft itself as well. That is another level of work, i.e. more parts to be removed, more details to put together correct later -->$$$
How do they know the camshaft is already busted if they have not opened the engine? I understand you can view, and check the camshaft adjuster by removing the front covers, but for the shaft itself, you must remove the headcover.
Also, here is a video showing one mode of failure of the camshaft adjuster (worn pin within the adjuster)
Last edited by JCM_MB; Oct 8, 2021 at 10:48 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: US
2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
Do the tensioner and check valve first. While the front cover is open, there are threads and youtube videos on how to check if the camshaft adjuster is bad and change it while everything is open, otherwise if it's still in the early stage, tensioner and check valve is the only fix needed.
- Open the camshaft adjuster covers. No need to remove the headcovers to do so (unless MB forces it as part of their standard procedure)
- Check the camshaft adjuster is failing before committing to a replacement, if it fails replace it; otherwise, leave it alone.
- Remove the chain tensioner
- Check if the check valve has been installed, if not DO it
- New Chain tensioner (check you are getting the latest part number for it)
- Close
Last edited by JCM_MB; Oct 8, 2021 at 03:35 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2021
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2014 ML 350 3.5L
Thanks for all the great input. Finally for the first time someone actually gave me useful advise on here instead of being a troll. I will go over these suggestions very carefully with my mechanic at the independent MB repair shop. I don't trust the MB dealership until I get a second opinion. Hence I am on here asking questions.
Here is the VIN # : 4JGDA5HBXEA404051
Here is the VIN # : 4JGDA5HBXEA404051
