Help! How do I remove EGR Valve (for cleaning/replacement)
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Arvada, CO
2012 ML350 Bluetec
Help! How do I remove EGR Valve (for cleaning/replacement)
You'll see my other post. I've followed this video to remove the EGR valve:
The EGR is not coming free. There is no way to move it by hand. I've confirmed (repeatedly) there are no bolts in the EGR. Water lines disconnected. Wiring disconnected.
I used a socket extension and a deadblow hammer to rotate the EGR valve counter-clockwise about 1/4". It took multiple strikes with significant force to get that far. It is still not free, and will not rotate back into its original position. I'd keep attempting to rotate, however the bolt-down point closer to the centerline of the car is now bound against a metal support for the wiring harness. That support doesn't appear to come free without removing the turbo as there is a forward bolt that is inaccessible due to the turbo charged air outlet.
I've tried to get a wedge underneath the EGR but have only managed to damage the metal on the block and EGR.
Suggestions?
The EGR is not coming free. There is no way to move it by hand. I've confirmed (repeatedly) there are no bolts in the EGR. Water lines disconnected. Wiring disconnected.
I used a socket extension and a deadblow hammer to rotate the EGR valve counter-clockwise about 1/4". It took multiple strikes with significant force to get that far. It is still not free, and will not rotate back into its original position. I'd keep attempting to rotate, however the bolt-down point closer to the centerline of the car is now bound against a metal support for the wiring harness. That support doesn't appear to come free without removing the turbo as there is a forward bolt that is inaccessible due to the turbo charged air outlet.
I've tried to get a wedge underneath the EGR but have only managed to damage the metal on the block and EGR.
Suggestions?
Member
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 207
Likes: 30
From: Ontario
ML350
I can't recall if it was on a thread here somewhere or on another forum but I remember seeing a suggestion for EGR removal was to just loosen the bolts holding it and then start the car up and rev it a bit. The pressure from the exhaust gases should pop the EGR out, and since you left the bolts mostly in and threaded they would catch the EGR and prevent it from actually flying out and causing damage.
try at your own risk
try at your own risk
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 655
Likes: 1
From: New Zealand
ML55 AMG
As someone who just removed their EGR, I ran into the same issue. Whacked it a few times, no movement. Ended up spraying some WD40 around the area and leaving it over night. Next day I could slightly wiggle it after whacking it so that it rotates, and then eventually got it got.
TLDR; try get it to rotate a bit with a persuasive percussion instrument (it has to lift straight upwards to get out). Spray WD40. Try again next day.
TLDR; try get it to rotate a bit with a persuasive percussion instrument (it has to lift straight upwards to get out). Spray WD40. Try again next day.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 5
From: bay area, CA
2011 e350 bluetec, 2016 gl350
Not sure if the OP got his issue resolved. His location shows North America. EGR, MAF sensor, along with a whole lot of engine parts are covered by diesel AEM warranty for a few more years.
My X166 diesel (same engine as W166) had check engine light and limp mode. Diagnosed to be "seized EGR valve" and MB dealer replaced it under warranty. The mechanic note said EGR valve was seized to the exhaust manifold, and had to be very carefully removed to not damage the exhaust manifold.
My X166 diesel (same engine as W166) had check engine light and limp mode. Diagnosed to be "seized EGR valve" and MB dealer replaced it under warranty. The mechanic note said EGR valve was seized to the exhaust manifold, and had to be very carefully removed to not damage the exhaust manifold.
