BenzWorld317

I was told by the dealer today that I need to replace only the driver side rear break pads along with the rotor. The video sent from the technician indicated the driver side rear break pad was wearing out with only 30% left but the passenger side is still good. I am seeing if I can get this job done with an independent mechanic. My questions are:
1. Should I change both rear rotors along with both rear break pads together?
2. Can I just go ahead with the driver side replacement of rotor and break pads?
3. When I get the indicator or message on the dash to change break pads, will the message aLeo indicate which side I should change? (I am particularly concerned about this since I just got the blind spot service inoperable message on the dash but it doesn’t say which side of the vehicle’s sensor is the issue even when scanned/diagnostic done at the dealer which is a bummer! I was just told to replace both sensors along with harness).

Appreciate all your inputs please.

Leetom

Rear sensor is ONLY on the passenger (Right) side pad, so it will only go off if that side is worn. These rotors should have plenty of material to just "turn" or resurface the rotor at least 1 time. That cost is only $10-$15 per rotor. I take mine to local OReily's and they will measure before and after to make sure within tolerance.

Always do brakes in pairs fronts or backs. Very odd your right side isnt worn. Possible inside pad is worn due to slide pin sticking, and not showing on outside pad that was checked for wear. Best to take that side apart and clean and relube to ensure proper operation.

If you are handy, just do them yourself, isnt a hard job and will save you several hundred dollars. Make sure to follow the rear emergency brake pad replacement procedure to have the car release the ebrakes before you start (you can search it up here, or I can send to you). First time I had mine done, Dealer quoted like $900. Had indy do for $600 (they always just replace rotors, quicker than turning, and more profit), last time did myself and was probably well under $200.

BlownV8

So, you probably have lane keep assist and the right rear caliper is sticking and has worn down the rotor and, most likely, inside brake pad. It's an easy DIY in your driveway or parking lot. I have changed that inside pad before and left the rotor as is. If you go this route and your rotor is not too worn down, make sure to take the sliding pins out and lubricate with a high temperature grease or it will wear out quickly again.

Stephen04E55

the rotor retaining screw which is usually a torx or hex can be pesky to remove. Use an impact driver (the type used with a hammer) to loosen if stuck. Jacking the C55 is a simple task as each corner has a jack pad. Once the wheel is removed (these can be stuck as the centers can rust) you will see the lower control arm or other solid area to place the jack stand. As stated above sliding the wheel under the car will add a safety measure. Make sure to loosen the master cylinder cap just a bit prior to depressing the caliper pistons...this keeps pressure buildup from occurring in the master cylinder. This is an overall easy brake job and there are many DIY youtube videos which have all of the details you need. Good luck and you will do great!